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Messages 1977 - 1996 of total 2568 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Spencer Adkisson

Trad climber
Reno, NV
May 3, 2008 - 02:51am PT
Dixie Gal wrote: "I think it is fair to say that Growing Up has irrevocably tarnished the reputations of the principal two people that performed this construction job."

Dixie-G, I don't think that's a fair statement at all. Noteriety, yes, but irrevocibaly tarnished? Not so much. Perceptions change. Time heals all wounds. Cultural norms change. How you interpret it is up to you, but that still doesn't make it so.

Clearly, you have staked-out a piece of real estate on one side of an ideological line. If it helps for you think of yourself as as a reporter or spokesperson for a benevolent majority, that's your perrogative, but that still doesn't mean that it's the way it really is.

This thread has gone on way too long without a link.

This one goes out to all the playahz, you know who you are!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FdGyR9bXsGE


You're welcome Buggs ;-)
grover

Social climber
Akanada
May 3, 2008 - 02:57am PT

Type A and Type B ?!?!

Is that what we have become?

Sheeit.

Can we really cut us clamberers into 2 groups?


I don't think there are enough letters in the english alphabet to do such a thing.

mark


philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
May 3, 2008 - 10:17am PT
Hey suze christo...
I go away for a while and this thread takes a drastic turn towards pansy hell. What started as a civil discussion has now morphed into a chest thumbing, bile spewing rag off. All this talk of chopping and beating makes me sick. Get over yourselves. All of you wanna be ethical purists who extoll the virtues of your heros have no idea how tainted virtually all of them are. GU is a climb that's all. It does nothing to diminish Half Dome or any other route anywhere. You can't see the bolts from the ground so why should you be so insensed that you think threatening each other is worthy? If you don't like it don't climb it. Simple.




Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
May 3, 2008 - 11:17am PT
STFU-SFHD thread!

Just kidding, I'm flaming way worse the the political thread. This has brought my on-topic posting ratio back.

The Chopping and Beating remarks were so dozens of posts ago. Then came the sane explanations and now we're shuffling around waiting for a second ascent (not that there wouldn't be something wrong with that)

Or somebody new logs in that somebody respects and we get a new take, same as the old take, or better.

nothing more to say, really just trying to snag the covert 2182 post, a year in which humanity will be lucky if civilization still exists and even luckier if the old bolts on growing-up and Southern Belle have been removed and climbers just wear anti-gravity decelerometers on their backs.

The debate will be over the old decelerometers, which sometimes failed or gave you a hard landing, versus the new kind, which always set you down soft and fluffy.

Peace

karl
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
May 3, 2008 - 01:20pm PT
Oh come on Karl, everyone already knows the old decelerometers will be better, due to the element of uncertainty and risk.
Spencer Adkisson

Trad climber
Reno, NV
May 3, 2008 - 01:53pm PT
Karl, I have seen the future, and the future is "The Doob-a-lopter"!

It is powered by charged electron particles coming from the solar wind. You navigate simply by thinking about climbing, while wiggling your fingers, hips, and toes.

With this necissary rock craft tool, the A0 section just might be freeable.



*copyright 2008 ~SA~designs All rights reserved. Infringment punishable by by hobbling.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
May 3, 2008 - 01:59pm PT
Looks trad! Bet it gets sketchy when the Doob wears off and the solar particles get obscured by those high country storms

Peace

karl
Spencer Adkisson

Trad climber
Reno, NV
May 3, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
Yeah, the real difficulty, and source for Doob-a-lopter raing system is in keeping your concentration.

You gotta be a Jedi!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
May 3, 2008 - 05:28pm PT
Spencer, I'm just a doob. . . I'm not sure where my lopter went. . .
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
May 3, 2008 - 08:00pm PT
Here's a PDF of the last 2187 posts, 346 pages, 8mb file:

http://www.deuce4.net/web/HalfDomeRapBolted.pdf

Note that there are other threads (not in the pdf), which include recaps, such as my distilled version:

"Yosemite, the world's premier big wall climbing area, gets its first "rap-bolted" big wall by a Sean Jones and a team of others, a 2000 foot new route on the back side of the famous Half Dome.

Although the new route is established using extensive "aid", including the installation of safety bolts from ropes anchored to the summit of Half Dome, approximately 95% of the climb is eventually climbed "free" by Sean.

The "top-down" climbing style is defended and promoted by Sean's team member Doug Robinson, a veritable icon of American rock climbing and early advocate of the clean climbing revolution of the 70's.

Led by Scott Cosgrove, a leading climber of the 1980s (the 'Golden Age' of bold climbing), arguments against the "top-down" style of establishing climbs, having all but disappeared from public discourse, are revived in favor of re-establishing "ground-up" rules for climbing in Yosemite.

The Yosemite climbing sage, Werner Braun, reminds us that such quarrel and strife are inevitable in the age of the Kali Yuga, and therefore resistance is futile. "
Spencer Adkisson

Trad climber
Reno, NV
May 3, 2008 - 10:45pm PT
Deuce,

Can any of this stuff be used against me in a court of law?
wildone

climber
Where you want to be
May 4, 2008 - 12:18am PT
Actually John, I'm not so sure Growing Up was the first rap bolted wall in Yosemite. In that same issue of Schlock and Vice, wasn't there an article of two dudes RETRO BOLTING CRACKS on Arcturus, a long-established Royal Robbins big wall....on rap? Correct me if I'm wrong.
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
May 4, 2008 - 02:53am PT
Arcturus wasn't rap bolted when it was established; thus, it doesn't qualify as Yosemite's first rap-bolted big wall.

Sorry.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 4, 2008 - 03:34am PT
My own version of the Doob a lopter more closely conforms to the classic pregnant guppy, form.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
May 4, 2008 - 11:13am PT
The top half of the 39 pitch route on Glacier Point, Galactic Hitchhiker (11b) was equiped by rapping in from the top. I don't know if they actually placed bolts on rappel, or led the pitches first.

The crux pitch is tightly bolted and one bolt seems to be in the wrong place (I can't clip it when freeing it) so I'm sure it was either bolted using aid or on rap.

I don't care though. Done the route a bunch of times and enjoy it a lot.

Peace

Karl


Shingle

climber
May 5, 2008 - 10:09am PT
Can't let this die.

Anyone seen this? Seems we have spent 2000+ posts to reinvent the wheel.

Does LEB = Sylvia Fuller? I think she's from Jersey, right?

Creating and Contesting Boundaries: Exploring the Dynamics of Conflict and Classification
Sylvia Fuller
Sociological Forum, Vol. 18, No. 1 (Mar., 2003), pp. 3-30

http://www.jstor.org/pss/3648877

Abstract: "While it is clear that cultural boundaries shape the ways we think and act, the processes by which some emerge as dominant while others languish is less well understood. Drawing on a case study of a conflict among climbers, I show how an innovation's evolution from heresy to orthodoxy was shaped by the relationship between borders enacted by players on different sides of the issue. I argue that because boundaries emerge in an interactional nexus, the nature of the boundaries that prevail can only be understood in the context of prior boundaries through and against which they are created."
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
May 5, 2008 - 11:52am PT
Thanks Shingle now my head hurts.
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
May 5, 2008 - 12:12pm PT
It matters not what we write now.... this thread has a life of its own and must break the 3000 level..... 3000 or bust!!
Shingle

climber
May 5, 2008 - 01:25pm PT
"boundaries emerge in an interactional nexus"

Got to save that one for later.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
May 5, 2008 - 06:43pm PT
Where did the WOS guy and the lame writer from Rock & Ice go?
Messages 1977 - 1996 of total 2568 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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