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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Sep 16, 2011 - 09:30am PT
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North Fork/Auberry's hidden falls.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Sep 16, 2011 - 11:00am PT
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Kevin, is that the Jose Basin or Million Dollar Mile Rd.? Some good storms that last weekend.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Sep 16, 2011 - 11:05am PT
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That is Shaver Lake being drained into Stevenson creek taken from the million dollar mile.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Sep 16, 2011 - 11:14am PT
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Cool shot, some reason I think that was the end of the road for you. Not power dome excursion go down yet? Also, if you're free tomorrow Jeremy, and I are headed to shuteye, if you want to check out some boulders or rope up.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Sep 16, 2011 - 12:24pm PT
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Hah, I always figured that million dollar mile was gated...
Mooch,
Which one of matts routes? He's got 10 or more I suspect on that dome.
Nate,
I'm trying to put together a good topo for that dome but it will take more time. I might know where those anchors are.
kev
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Sep 16, 2011 - 12:53pm PT
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cool shot doughnut. I've been there several times, but have never seen it like that!
Kev, let's talk.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Sep 16, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
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I would be honored to hold your rope tommorow TJI, I'll call you or your brother tonight. (unless I can find a partner for "not power dome", Barry's injured and Kenny's smitten with a girl).
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Sep 16, 2011 - 01:56pm PT
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Cool, I can't climb, but I can hang out and do some bad spotting, talk to you later.
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Sep 16, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
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Dave, thanks again ~ looking forward to seeing and meeting everybody at least for Sat night but hopefully more. Will be trying to coordinate all week with some folks possibly coming out too. Please email us where you'll be camped and if there's anything we can bring.
TFPU your TR Bluering - glad you and Kev had a good time!
Justin - hopefully you're almost healed... I thought you were til I saw your last post.
Nice shot of the falls donught!
Here's one of the woods off Minaret's from last year - kind of bummed summer's almost over but high weather hopes for the next season.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Sep 19, 2011 - 07:38pm PT
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Susu -
Will do. Meeting up with Tiki Friday morning. Have $15 dollars....will travel, nahmeen?
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Sep 20, 2011 - 12:53am PT
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Wuh??
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Sep 20, 2011 - 04:13am PT
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Mooch - Nawmeen. We'll cover you. But now why ya'always gotta git up in my know what i'm say'ins?! :D
Wish we could meet a day early with you and Tiki! Will miss that if we don't... could'a used the workout for sure! We'll see.
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Sep 23, 2011 - 01:43am PT
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Ok, Good agave tequila, Mooch. Check.
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Sep 26, 2011 - 09:09pm PT
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Just got back from 3 glorious days up at Shuteye. Every time I leave, I wish I lived closer...
Visited many formations I hadn't been to before including several up at the Eagle Beaks. Climbed on 5 different formations, but the standout route for me was Space Lord, a 150-foot 12a on the South Eagle Beak - an amazing endurance challenge up a steep water streak.
Spent one day up near Chilkoot Lake, pulling on the Magic Wall and other formations around it. Finished that day by playing in what's left of the lake.
Last day was spent up near High Eagle. Played around on The Aerie in the morning, before trudging down to the 50-5.7's formation. I had never seen that crag and it is HUGE! There's room for many more routes to be done there at just about all grades and types of climbing (cracks, slabs, mixed, and steep face). The standout route of the day was definitely Climbing on the Brain, an older Dan McDevitt route that was brilliant! It was rated a very sandy 10d,but felt more like 5.11 to me. There's wasn't a lick of chalk on the line, which I really enjoyed for the route-finding challenge it provided. There are a few runouts on the route, but for the most part it's got protection where you need it. I could not recommend this route more to anyone looking for a long (140') face-climbing challenge up a beautifully streaked steep wall.
This trip was all about seeing new things, which made for A LOT of hiking, but it was a very good trip and provided just the break I was looking for.
Thank you to everyone that continues to develop new climbing options up there...
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Sep 27, 2011 - 07:14pm PT
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That was a great weekend Louie! Thanks to you and Valarie for coming up and sampling some new stuff. Very grateful to get some good pics of you guys onsighting and working some Shuteye classics for the guide. Glad you guys didn't mind all the hiking too much. The Beaks is still a burly approach even with the new trail. At least its all been cleared and marked now.
The 20 plus footer you took off the last hard move on Space Lord was fun to watch from right above you. To bad I forgot to snap a pick. Heres one from before...
Valarie on Baby Eagle Dome
50 5.7's
Chilkoot Lake Area - Valarie
Aerie
Magic Wall onsight
Storm Cell
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P.Rob
Social climber
Pacomia, Ca - Y Que?
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Sep 27, 2011 - 07:34pm PT
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Grahm
28 years ago, I was young and a Crew Leader for a back country Trail Crew working out of Clover Meadows Ranger Station. We covered area all the way up to Granite Stairway and environs. While doing work at Iron Lake,I noticed a Crag with numerous splitter cracks that sat above the Lake. Are you familiar with this and would you know if this crag has ever had a serious look…..
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Sep 27, 2011 - 07:57pm PT
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Thanks for posting these pics Grahm - it's nice to have good images to remember the good times.
For those that haven't checked them out, both Space Lord and Climbing on the Brain are amazing routes!
Space Lord (South Eagle Beak) - an easier (5.7?) approach pitch leads to a hanging belay. Some slab moves for a few bolts lead to the base of the steep black streak. Continuous 5.11 edge and crimp climbing takes you to the top of the cliff. The whole pitch is probably about 150 feet long and there are no real stopper cruxes on the climb. Instead, it's just a matter of keeping the pump at bay. I thought I was doing a pretty good job of that until a foothold broke on me as I was moving through the last hard move...oh well, at least the fall was all air. Anyhow, this route alone is worth the long approach and should be on anyone's to do list if the grade is attainable. Luckily, there are many other good routes and boulder problems in the same general area.
Climbing on the Brain (50 5.7's formation)- immediately after clipping the first bolt, the route-finding challenges hit you. This is a long (140 feet?) pitch that is full of sustained, technical and sometimes committing climbing. There are a few runouts to deal with, but thankfully those sections are found on slightly easier terrain. The middle 90 feet of the route is the real challenge, with the hardest moves coming at the end of that section. 20 feet of very steep climbing on positive holds provides a pleasant end to this standout route. There is another similarly rated route to the right of this one that is reportedly just as good, but I did not have time to get on that one...next time I guess.
I got on a lot of good routes this trip, but those two were the definite standouts.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Sep 27, 2011 - 08:10pm PT
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Some of the best pics I've seen, good work Louie, Valarie, and Grahm.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Sep 27, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
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The Brain, one of my favorite routes on the Ridge. Dan rates both those 10c...glad others think they are harder.
Nice pics.
What about that crack right below Louie? Looks splitter hands?
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Sep 27, 2011 - 10:59pm PT
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Awesome photos!
Nice job of taking those!
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