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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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I have taken some similar shots of rusting pro. . .
If I can I post from the desk top I have been banished to the laundry room and the shablet
For this , the first week of school.
The dangerous years have begun. Kids today have to be big in a hurry and my little gnomes are not ready for the big bad worlds of Middleschool and High. School .
shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
Aug 2, 2013 - 08:36pm PT
body and soul, another scary day in my youth. i walked out with the kid(kurt smith) without the usual feeling of doom cause the kid had requested to lead it. yeah, i'll go belay on that. so, kid doesn't feel it and backs off the double bolts and offers the lead to me. hey, is this a sandbag?
so i go up and start climbing above the double bolts to the roof, and i'm feeling pretty good for a bit, but then it starts getting real thin, and finally, the last move to the undercling is desperate, like 12a, and i just stick it and slam a cam. that would be a super rude fall from there. i can't do the boulder problem(12b) above the roof, so i lower off.
i come back a couple of days later consumed with a feeling of dread like i always did when i went out to honor bachar by possibly dying trying to do one of his routes. john barbella was my partner. i had left a sling on the first cam i had left in the roof. the result was that i was able to clip the cam before doing that hideous move to the roof. so, my ascent was less that perfect, with preplaced pro, a pinkpoint not a redpoint. i slung a knob going out the roof, which was decent, then committed to the face above. this is a huge fukking runout, maybe 40 feet from the cam, and 35 feet from the tied off knob to this big ledge. it's medium 5.10, on knobs and edges, and goes through a slightly overhanging bulge at one point. as one nears the ledge, the ground becomes a factor, nearly 80 feet below. but it's only 5.10 here, and although the routefinding is a bit tricky, i did not have any problem here, though it did take all the skill and courage i could muster. barbella followed, if you could call it that, and eventually commented that he should have just taken jumars.
it was the second ascent of one of the most feared pitches in yosemite, and i had survived only to try and die on another bachar testpiece. kurt commented to me a few years ago that we were lucky to live through those times. i wholeheartedly agree.
Steve Schneider
Oakland, CA
ps thanks to CAN'T SAY(do i know you) for pointing out lechlinski's role in what must have been a hairball first ascent
This is to remind that getting it done back in the day could be something to write home about, but they did not give out Merit badges or any such stuff.
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feralfae
Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
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Oh, Mouse! So glad you have the appointment on Thursday. That was expeditious re-scheduling on your part. Bravo! One step nearer to a return to good health. Good for you.
The smoke has cleared here and so the migrating hummers are more visible as they pause on their journey and take time for a few swigs of nectar from the feeders. Great save on the hummer!
Your nieces are darling! My daughters were Brownies, then Girl Scouts. The Boy Scouts had their own camp grounds, but the Girl Scouts did not. I successfully petitioned so we got to use their campgrounds (when they weren't there) and have our own camping adventures. I hope your nieces have wonderful adventures in the Scouts.
zB, I have learned more about Wizard than I had any idea. I did know the entire story concerns the gold standard in some way.
Off to make more mud pies,
ff
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 07:02am PT
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I love that word!
But you might could enjoy making mud biscuits for a change. :0)
Prairie Home Companion, the weekly radio show produced by Garrison Keillor, is "sponsored" by the fictitious product "Powdermilk Biscuits", whose slogan is:
"Made from whole wheat raised in the rich bottomlands of the Lake Wobegon River valley by Norwegian bachelor farmers,
so you know they're not only good for you, but also pure, mostly",
which "give shy persons the strength to get up and do what needs to be done. Heavens, they're tasty and expeditious." [Click to View YouTube Video]
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 07:27am PT
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For the politards, who seem to lack a sense of humor, in general.
"Hi, friends. I'm SO Serious. I'd like to take this opportunity to discuss cheating at bridge (Chappaquidick), cheating in marriage (Marilyn), and cheating on 50-mile hikes."
[Click to View YouTube Video]Cheating at pinochle will be covered a bit later by my Nana, somewhat of an expert on that subject.
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feralfae
Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
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Hmmm. . .
I got all the way out to the studio, and then began to laugh.
First firing of clay yields . . .
Bisque. Biscuit.
From wikipedia:
Bisque porcelain
Your word play is working very well, Mouse.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Our total costs for getting to Machu Picchu from Cusco for 2 people were:
Taxi to the Quillabamba bus station at 0430 in the morning: 9 soles
Bus Cusco to Santa Maria: 40 soles
Food at bus stops: 14 soles
Collectivo Santa Maria to Santa Teresa Hydroelectrico: 20 soles
Walking from the Hydroelectrico to Aguas Calientes: free
Food in Aguas Calientes: 54 soles
Private room with bathroom in Aguas Calientes at the El Tumi Hostal: 40 soles
Walking from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu: free
Entry tickets into Machu Picchu: 248 soles
Bathroom 2x at Machu Picchu: 2 soles!
Train ride Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo: $68 (the station didn’t even post prices in soles, all prices were listed in dollars. $68 is about 210 soles)
Taxi from Ollantaytambo back to Cusco: 26 soles
Total cost for 2 people was 663 soles or $214 -- 2009
]http://www.chanatrek.com/wp-content/gallery/14_Peru/2009_01_28_Bus_Ride_to_Aguas_Calientes/2009_01_28_3_Walking_railroad_Santa_Teresa_Hydroelectrico_to_Aguas_Calientes_Peru_16.jpg
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 08:43am PT
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Thank Crusher Barnett for this one and see his Facebook post!
Special recognition for the Canyonlands by the NPS.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 09:00am PT
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"It's all about the love."--Chris Kalous
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 04:08pm PT
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Listening to that was a unique experience. It's like this--I kept on listening expecting it to get better!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
And I swear, if the dude on the bike were edited in so he disappeared at the crescendo of one of the musical "waves," it would be an instant classic.
As it stands, the harp's visitation rate has no need for an increase in frequency as once is definitely enough.
We could use one under the G Street bridge, a naturally acoustic scenic attraction here in Muir Said.
The homeless might object to being unable to sleep there, of course, so the council might buy into that idea. Hmmm...
Don't think so. I might could end up down there myself!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2015 - 06:18pm PT
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"Alas, Pohono, I knew her well."--Shakes Spear, Sitting Bull's stand-in
"My en-tire spread fer a decent cow pony!"--Rick III, king of the cowpersons
"But now, my lord, what say you to my suit?"--Sir Chappy Caulet's rival, London of Paris
Say what?
What Little Old Hardmen Are Made Of
Slings and arrows
Arrows and slings
Pitons and Moacs
And old-school things
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Expeditiously,chew your own listas ! A standing nightmare machine! that there puts out the sounds of my nightmares,
you have hit a sour note but I scrolled through, to see your non manipulated 'guy0nbike, not
Disappear. The tripping trapesing swell Garcia share makes up but that humming harp thing would make a good mouse trap.
F
Edit:
This next bit needed an introduction, a picture of a a five by three walking gear cash from the
70s, 80s and 90s, sticks of aluminum poking out 'cause I sling all my cams from the death hole in front of the trigger; for horizontal placements, I do have a few Tech Friends and fully molded Camalots, my gear is fine. I retire stuff sometime just not this time. Or lately .
But some things that now matter more than they ever did in the pursuit of fitting into a persons picture of what they want to be/see themselves as. This is at least still unchanged in the climbers make up, a universal eye to what it is. An ability to stand aside of the action simultaneously being one of the two and seeing the partnership as to its balance.
I look like I say a gear gnome from 1999.
The packs I have are from before that I think. . .and so then this. ...
Try as I might I could not keep $80 bucks in my pocket long enough .
I wanted to reach out and make a purchase from the modern swap meet,
the for sums of the the four forums,. . .the four for sale forums of the apocalypse
Summit post, taco ,MP, ??
What are some other favorite sites where you can find deals?(for reals)
I was sure and said as much that to add to the 60 gallon tub of shoes was most needed.
But nI or nye any of the current shoes are stiff enough in the toe for my fooked 0op down paws. My big toes are toast.
Steaming ,burning a hole in my pockets I tell you I had to bUy a deal off the climbing web boards, just had to.
I should have waited. ..
As I searched shoes I saw packs selling? I have a box or two of back packs, it is a toss up,really, which I have more of, old packs or old shoes .
Segway not the scooter the too, swamp over to the climbing I did with the pack less one .
At four in the morning before climbing that day . I'm impulsive at 4, I switched packs.
From the late 90's North Face, (TheNorth Face) a sea blue and black rig with red straps removable so moved hip belt, there is a fuschia green stripe down the front that hides a zipper for the full length of the pack. It is a work horse has a few great features. The most unique,
a map or document pocket sewn into the back panel.
Waterproofed, really sweat proof ~ get 'em to sign the 'your gonna die form', and slide those worthless sheets of paper into the sheath, head out for the day, then at the end of the day pull out the sheets for the clients to jot down their thanks. . . How to milk tips, it worked, and all the time every time! So I love this pack.
I switched to the other work horse of a claim that has a lame name and the curious station of second favorite pack that I have which makes it the third best pack out of a dozen or so I have owned, the Son of Crag a Black Diamond simple top loader, grey with purple straps two hood straps and daisy chains with loops at both ends and a third center loop at the toe I thought was weak twenty years ago. The beef is in this double sack. It is a sown, taped, fully waterproofed bag in a bag design, the inside is a bright blue.
( same color as the outside of TNF).
Oh hey good day get it it done I'm gonna get to it but back to this backpack fun...
I know you can smell that rotting gear smell from middle earth all the way to strawberry hill.
This now does put me to sleep too
visas vie,
oh well, boss - o I'll just wrap pit
That's not a wrap, though I need to get out that, had I waited and thought about it ,
the sales were just about to start and new packs are on sale at every discount sight I could find.
Trekkinn .com has the best price on a hybrid haul bag I had never been to that sight. Moosejaw, and Xgear, backcountry and Sierra trading post all have great deals under a hundred bucks.
Maybe if I showed up carrying a pack from this century, not a pack that they've seen in an attic or dusty basement some where,might be a better more inspiring look?
That was what this was all after . . .
I bought a new to me pack from a private seller, only to find two days latter all packs that I looked at went on sale so not that it matters but I could have done better.
A fifty liter plus sack for under a hundred bucks,
or the Atom Smasher I yearn for but can't justify, the minute I buy one
the Pennsi. State police will release mine.
Tthen we'll I'll be a two fisted 2 atom smasher carrying chossgrovler
lost in the wilds of small rock hell east Far East side.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2015 - 01:18am PT
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Little ride in the country.
Had to get out in the fresh air away from smelly old climbing shoes and mouldy old packs...
No offensies, my man.
It so happened that I saw the movie "Blade Runner" tonight. It's rather gloomy and damp and sanguinary.
There was one quote I took a liking to, though.
"All those moments will be lost in time like tears in rain. Time to die."--Roy Batty
To protect the little ones while letting them roam free seems like a thankless job for many parents, Gnome. Let me say one more time how lucky you are to have that job.
And thanks for the well-wishes, too.
I should go lie down and kick my feet up and wait for the van to Fresno, so have a good day.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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I am a poor template for bunnies and puppies and kids but I try .
This twisted world has a way of letting the weeds grow so we try to let 'em grow organically.
We look at it like the childhood game played in the rain, where the girls make the streams
change course by adding sticks diverting the trickles into a string of eddy is and waterfalls.
and then join the boys picking the perfect leaf boats, boat leaves, leaves of sycamore.
To float, race down the tumbling rain swollen streams that form around the trails in the woods of the summer cabin.
We try to point them in good directions but right now as happens we have screwed up
The pick Is limited to subsidized, extracurricular opportunities.
The boy wants a Dojo experience. Yikes the Sensi is manscaped to 'enth degree and his wife jut give birth -
I fear a creep! - my to cute boy I'm 'spousdes to leave in this 'guy's' care ?
The Shakespeare camp went bust mid season, the fault of the year before having been bugged.
On one two week session the kids all got stung by yellow jackets, and then worse,
during the best production, and kids got lice from old costumes,
say good night to the enchanted garden's Shakespeare camp.
We did not have a better choice.
Then the director,the poor kid, who's 'baby' it is, (the camp)
couldn't schedule a spring support get together . . The writing was on the wall .
My kids have had very little stay constant in the short lives.
We try to show them that things worth pursuing have value based on future anticipation.
We try to show them to be ready for when the good opportunity comes.
Reading that I'm going to get the new high schooler up for the day.
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