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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Apr 28, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
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The bolts were just all over the place. You needed like 50 ft of webbing to equalize them. And the one in between the star drives was in pretty crooked and already a little rusty. Also it was just in a weird spot right in between the 2. The star drives pulled out really easy. I also left some quick links on the anchor so you can rap off because every time l go there, someone leaves some tat. I left the one bolt that's to the left and at the lip for the other route.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2014 - 02:15pm PT
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did you guys climb the other side of that area?
loomis set it up so you can climb freeway then get the other stuff!!
glad your dusting off the freeway crack.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Apr 28, 2014 - 02:31pm PT
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I did the little cracks to the right of freeway. But not the 5.11 to the left. But I left the bolt at the lip for that one. The old 1/4s were in a good spot, but the other new bolts were really weird.
I left the one in the right side. You can see the 2 old and 1 new in the middle, I pulled all 3 of those. And the random bolt all the way in the back by my backpack got pulled. I put 2 new ones near the crack to the right.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Apr 28, 2014 - 02:33pm PT
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PS if anyone thinks it sucks or I messed it up, I'll go fix it. But to me, it's a cleaner easier set up. Also I'm down to throw in some more SS bolts if anyone knows of any that need replacing.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Apr 28, 2014 - 02:39pm PT
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Base of the bolt ladder the other day. Almost set my pack on it while getting ready to do a few solo laps
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PhillVanDyke
Boulder climber
CA
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Apr 28, 2014 - 05:57pm PT
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Hey All,
My daughter lost one of her brand new La Sportiva Tarantulace size five shoes about 10 days ago in the back area somewhere around Koda's Corner. Somehow it must have fallen out of my crash pad when leaving, so we didn't notice until just a few days ago when we went climbing again. If anyone happened to pick it up, please e-mail me at PhillVanDyke@gmail.com. Much appreciated!
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Apr 28, 2014 - 09:06pm PT
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bump for lost shoes.
Nice work Tfish
Nice picture Batrock.
Climb on
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 29, 2014 - 11:15am PT
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bump for the shoes!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Apr 29, 2014 - 11:55pm PT
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Not stoney but close enough.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
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Apr 30, 2014 - 10:29am PT
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Nice Tfish
we use to climb a lot around box canyon.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Nice, you got any recommendations besides the aid stuff on bigwall.com? It's a pretty decent spot, I'm all about avoiding the crowds and getting obscure.
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Madbolter
Big Wall climber
I used to be hard
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Hey Tfish, is my bail gear still on that A3/A4 RURP crack?
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BlueWing
Social climber
SCV, Ca
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Can you tell me where the freeway crack is?
I don't know it by name.
Is it somewhere north of the tracks?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2014 - 11:20am PT
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this picture shows the formation to the right of topanga.
hike straight out to it. the crack is kinda hidden but it faces
stoney point
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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I didn't see any bail gear on the A3 seam. The only bail thing I saw was this janky anchor at the top. It's a rivet hanger, a bird sh#t bolt and another bolt with a cracked hanger.
The freeway crack is north of Stoney. Park at the top and the. Walk up towards the freeway on a trail right next to the road. You can lead it or scramble up by a crack on the backside.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2014 - 11:26am PT
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tfish u need a bigwall!
love ur posts. ive never aided the box cyn stuff only been
run out by homeowners. i have played aid on the rockey peak stuff
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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The only bail thing I saw was this janky anchor at the top. It's a rivet hanger, a bird sh#t bolt and another bolt with a cracked hanger.
Nothing wrong with the anchor, pretty standard SP deal. It was good enuf for Robbins. Heck, just slam in a bong or two if ya think its not gona work.
;>)
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Your posts are rad too pyro. I just tried to get the south face of the Washington column but got shut down by some old pussy retard party of 3. The guy said he has been on the route 6 times. Like yo, you know there are like 1,000 more routes here dude. They also shuttled like 4 loads to the base. How much sh#t do you need for one night?!? And they were super slow and unorganized and sloppy. The wouldn't let us pass so we just did the first 2 pitches and bailed. There was a storm coming and we had to go home soon too so we couldn't wait it out. But yeah I want a big wall really bad.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Mummmmm bigwall.....drool
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Tfish-when were your pics taken?
We usually don't go through all that bird debris to get over there. (We are soft)
There are two or three bolts just as the crack goes virtical for a few feet then horizontal bird houses, that we can lower from.
Wes
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