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Banquo
climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
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The summit register is in bad shape.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Hey all, I lost my black, Smith sunglasses at Lost Eagle on Monday. Would love to get them back if anyone findes them. I have several replacement lenses that will otherwise go unused.
Thanks'
Jeff
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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If ANY Soyo regulars want a hookup on the new Tollhouse guide ($18 free shipping) PM me. I know many of you climb there when Soyo is snowed in.
Dwight is organizing a Faceoff for the near future as well. Should be fun.
Peace
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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What did you climb Jeff? Have not been to LE this year yet.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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I was up there with John. Not sure of the names. 2 bolts kinda hard to a right leaning easy crack. And a bit right of that we did a short route with bolts to a fun bulge to a ledge with a nice anchor/rap. The second route had another bolt on the ledge below the anchor?
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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No idea Jeff....but were you having fun and smiling?
Is all that matters;)
I was at Wamello....looking at doing an extension of a route that my dear friend and I did BITD. He is no longer with us and as a tribute of sorts.....
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Great trip, did a full tour . Yelled at kev on a route from the road, ate good food, and managed to get some stone under the feet.
Whoop!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Cool stuff, susu and Mucci! I think that's kev on pitch #3.
Josh, I was personally hurt you didn't stop by camp...I wept a bit.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Sep 12, 2011 - 01:38pm PT
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Is there some really EASY (5.6 or under) multi pitch route on one of these southern Yosemite Domes that my wife and I might enjoy this fall?
Thanks in advance!
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Sep 12, 2011 - 02:22pm PT
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Inner City,
Yes there are (infact the pic with me a few posts before is of a 5.6 - that ain't in any book ;) but not a lot of soyo topos will ever get put on the web. Instead, you should come up, hang around and meet some peeps and do some exploring. That's the best way - it's all about adventure and meeting the locals.
Otherwise search the web for what little there is or buy Spencers always helpful Guidebook of lies.....
kev
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Sep 12, 2011 - 03:17pm PT
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My Lord.....your Kingdom beckons you!!
All -
Will be there on Friday morning (Sept 23rd). Pat Brennan and cru will be there that night to sample LE. Hoping a few of the regular rats will be on hand to play steward.
Tiki -
can you play on Friday (23rd) to get "something done"? Susu?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 12, 2011 - 04:20pm PT
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5.6 and under routes (not all are multipitch, and the Starr King routes are in Yosemite NP, but in the Spencer guidebook)
102. Chute Out 5.1
11. MR A 5.3
99. MU A 5.3
103. MU E 5.3
217. Made in the Shade 5.3
276. Water Crack - Left 5.3
5. Mt. Starr King - Northeast Face 5.4
18. MR G 5.4
26. EMR Cv 5.4
53. Oldsquaw A 5.4
93. Worm Squirm 5.4
147. Tin Roof 5.4
148. Big Dogs 5.4
207. Sink Me 5.4
216. Morning Thunder 5.4
277. Water Crack - Right 5.4
1. Mt. Starr King - Southeast Face 5.5
149. Woodchuck 5.5
190. Trough 5.5
259. Eye of the Needle 5.5
278. First Lead 5.5
398. BB chimney 5.5
587. Opening Farewell 5.5
661. Walkabout 5.5
15. MR D 5.6
19. MR H 5.6
96. Green Slime 5.6
114. Necromancy 5.6
117. Harlot 5.6
187. Fox Trot 5.6
188. Bay Bridge 5.6
218. Arch Direct 5.6
254. Golden Toad - West Face 5.6
257. Golden Toad - SW Ridge 5.6
258. Golden Toad - South Face Arch 5.6
272. Woodstock 5.6
294. Night Driver 5.6
302. Easy Streaks 5.6
350. Paper Tiger 5.6
365. Scepter 5.6
583. Kind of Neat 5.6
601. Fistful of Gravel 5.6
649. Apple Ranch 5.6
651. Nick Bottom 5.6
659. Good and Good for You 5.6 *
686. Squaw Dome - West Book 5.6
The Golden Toad routes are 3-4 pitches each.
Scepter is 5 pitches, on Queen's Throne.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Sep 12, 2011 - 07:08pm PT
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Sep 12, 2011 - 07:21pm PT
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Awesome, Tork.
Ya should've dropped 'em at the base of the route called "If Found, Please Call..."
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Sep 12, 2011 - 07:37pm PT
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Nice Jeff...
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Sep 13, 2011 - 02:35pm PT
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Hopefully we can meet up! Jeff, what about you since you still need to find your glasses? Dave, who all is going to be there with you and Pat?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Sep 14, 2011 - 08:22pm PT
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The TR;
So I get the call a week early from an unnamed friend (Kev) that he needs a partner for some FA’s in Shuteye. Sweet!
But I’m tell kev that there’s no way because it’s short notice and my wife would be alone with the boy all weekend. I tell her about the call and the lameness of 7-day notice on a 4 day trip. Her reply was, “You should go, I’ll take John down to hang with Grandma all weekend”…….
Heehee!!!! I called kev back and said I was (mostly) ALL IN!!!!
Shopping is first after departing the Bay on Friday at about 12-1pm. Yessss!!!!!!!!
I wouldn’t be told about our objective until late into the ride there. The first would be a warm-up and variation attempt on one of his established routes there.
On our way to the route we notice kev’s favorite site is being evacuated by Werner and Mayfield’s friend, Dave Norris.
Sweet! They were totally cool and Dave was telling us stories of people he knew in the Valley and Mayfield and Werner’s names came up. And there were many others.
Apparently he’s a retired back country ranger. Cool guy too! I think we freaked his wife out because we were target shooting my sidearm late Friday night afternoon, about a ¼ mile from their site. She thought we were just random shooting into the air!
The route???
It’s on the Nightw#tch. It’s called ‘2 Wounded Soldiers’. I think the variation we did he’s calling ‘Ribbed For Comfort’, (4 pitches, 5.6 Shuteye scale).
Mucci did greet us on route from the base. Thank you! Next time come by for beers!!!!!! WTF?!
I was a little disappointed he didn’t drop by. We only had 3 bottles of wine, 50 beers, and margaritas. WTF?
I get the second pitch, no pics because Kev is lame on the camera…
After I descended I was done. No Mas!! Awesome route, very cool! The descent was a calf destroyer. Despite being called the “Turtle” by Kev, for my hiking speed, I did okay on this brutal deathmarch. But we weren’t done. Not yet.
Onto an undisclosed walled called Swilloh Wall, we did some recon. Many beverages had to be tied into this project. It was grueling in the sun. We persevered and made it out o.k. It was dramatic.
It’s a nice looking wall.
We recon’d it on Sunday and did some prep work.
We get hammered on Sunday night/!/@% . Hehe!
Monday is the day to put up new routes that were prepared the day prior. We head out, go up our nice trail that is grueling to me, and as we sit and have a beer half way up we see the horror.
Dark-lined clouds rolling in pretty fast. All headed towards our dome from multiple directions. We get bummed but decide to head up and see what happens, it may blow through!
We get up there and it is worse. Bad conditions to be flailing on an FA. We scope some lines, take pics, drink more beers, and then bail.
On the way out of the Ridge we make some stops. Apparently the local rednecks aren’t good at packing out their shells, or uncleaned and uneaten trout.
Idiots.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Sep 15, 2011 - 12:35am PT
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Kev and Bluey -
Is that by Matt's route?
Susu -
No body count yet but I assume Pat, his wife Lori, Ken Kennaga (partnered with Pat on many FA's throughout the year....a few FA's on Stonehouse Buttress and South Face of LPP) and a handful of local Big Bear/Lake Arrowhead climbers. Hope a good chunk of the crew shows up!
Tork -
Will look for your glasses.....
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Sep 15, 2011 - 03:46am PT
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Mooch, I'm pretty sure Kev put that rig up. I'll let him chime in.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Sep 15, 2011 - 02:03pm PT
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Thanks for the share, bluey.
Kev,
In your travels on Nightw#tch, have you spotted yet Spencer's anchors for Planet Granite, to the right of Wounded Soldiers?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!