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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 13, 2007 - 09:40pm PT
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must be a Piggot thing.. I'll keep scanning the data banks, maybe it'll come up.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 13, 2007 - 09:43pm PT
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Hey Bob Van Belle,
Kinda off topic, but you've lived in some cool cat spots, or at least been crag side such wise, like The New, Capitol Reef. How's comes we ain't seen many pics from those escapades?
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Curt
Boulder climber
Gilbert, AZ
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Mar 13, 2007 - 09:57pm PT
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Jesus, either be more careful what you ask for--or get more bandwith...
Curt
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 13, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
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hehehe.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 14, 2007 - 11:09am PT
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This kinda pushes the thread to include greater San Diego.
Jeff Almodovar enjoys a December day repeating my Deerhorn Valley classic Full Moon Boogie 5.11a/b. Greg Epperson Image.
I did the FA of this climb with Paul Wheeland around 1977 after being motivated by Woodson; pre-friends, pre-Fires, it involved a protracted effort. I recall being so pumped I couldn't untie. Don Reid loved the thing, thought it was 11b. Sustained textbook 1" jams up a really nice and truly vertical wall.
When I see this picture I remember why I climbed at all. If there is any route that has come to represent my San Diego years and my contribution to the crags, this is it.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 14, 2007 - 12:02pm PT
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yep, full moon boogie is mos def a classic. loved climbing past the loose flake jammed in the slot to get to that splitter on the headwall.
hey ray, what was the name of the 5.11c splitter to a groove, maybe 40' high, on the formation behind full moon boogie? snakefinger, i think? i bouldered that thing on sight (insert sound of vigorous vigorous chest thumping here) and even the usually droll eppi was impressed. man, i've had some of my best crack days ever at deerhorn. in some ways it's like woodson on steroids.
somebody has GOT to get the access to that place opened up again. why was it closed? what happened?
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 14, 2007 - 12:13pm PT
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The backside of FMB is Snakefinger 10d, an impressive boulder problem bvb - I always did it as a TR because of the peculiar funkiness when the angle kicks up high - saw Adrian ask for a rope up there once...that corridor is a neat place - cool, always a light breeze.
I gave up on access to Deerhorn years ago and was lucky to get in there w/ Eric beck to do things like African Queen back in '98.
Private development.
I'm trying to remember the name of the other main Deerhorn developer - the guy who did Fang Arete.
I know nothing of the Specifics re: access.
Re: your Q on that roof bvb, gotta ask Piggot. I don't think I was ever privilege to the whole scoop.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 14, 2007 - 12:22pm PT
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re:
"in some ways it's like woodson on steroids"
I always loved the Pinnacles partly because of the awesome places to hang out among the rocks on that steep slope...with the perfect onshore breezes it was like have air conditioning - people have a hard time understanding climbing in San Diego unless they've been there...it's hard to imagine the quality of the rock and the weather at such a high consistency - that's why I stayed for so long.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Mar 14, 2007 - 01:16pm PT
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You've had couple of lovely short paeans to San Diego climbing lately Ray, reminds me of what I really loved about growing up there and poking about out in the county. When I left in Jan. 79 I really had no idea that I'd never move back, and it feels like that place I remember is gone, replaced by something bigger, faster, and meaner. Do you ever think about moving back to that town?
I've certainly become deeply smitten with the Northwest, rain and all, and wouldn't go back, though truth be told, every February or so the notion of a month in San Diego or Tucson seems like a pretty charming idea.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 14, 2007 - 01:24pm PT
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Dear Doug,
I think you summed it up when you wrote:
"it feels like that place I remember is gone, replaced by something bigger, faster, and meaner."
My brothers live there, it's become a big city, still upbeat maybe even with a better more hip cultural groove, but different.
A great place to be from. Guess I like Boulder 'cause there's a lot of things to do here that suit my years -wanna learn to track ski, cycle again, do some Alpine Touring, more backpacking...so this works.
Climbing saved my life.
I'm really lucky I had so much good stuff in my backyard and so many cool people to be active with.
Cheers.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Mar 14, 2007 - 01:32pm PT
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Raydog - Yeah...uh....the first ascents of "Hear My Train a' Comin' " and "Drivin' South".
Jeepers - hard to remember things from the age of the dinosaurs.
I think I did "Hear my Train" pretty quickly - it's more of a highball than anything super technical. I guess I just felt comfy on that kind of stuff after climbing in the Valley so much. Nobody really wanted to do that kind of thing back then - they thought I was nuts anyway.
"Drinin' South" was really an effort though. I climbed up to the 'lip' move many times and had to do the hideous bail out. I think Shawn Curtis showed it to me one day - said nobody could touch it. Man, I remember finally going for it at the lip when I did it - I was scared sheetless - don't want to fall from there. I think Mike and Mari were there - we used to go down there quite a bit in those days.
I did some other stuff down there too - can't remember what other climbs I put up....
Cheers, JB
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 14, 2007 - 02:16pm PT
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Jeepers Ray,
You really catch the special feel of these places with your words.
'Spent very little time at Woodson.
TR'd Hear My Train & Drivin' South, seems a long time ago and we watched as Watusi strolled those things high ball style and he was so dialed. That was about it.
I'll be out there after the Sushi Fest, meaning later next month. Anybody wanna hep me out with a short tour of Woodson then? 'Might be able to get up Robbins crack.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Mar 14, 2007 - 02:29pm PT
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Heh, the old "lower expectations then blow them away" strategy, eh Roy? You still look like a pretty tough and stringy old bird. Samson aside, strength doesn't really reside in the hair, so you should do fine. Start lobbying the Beeb via email, he's usually up for a weekend back in da hood.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 14, 2007 - 02:40pm PT
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rouses from sleep at work sitting in front of computer
"uh...did somebody say 'woodson'"??
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 14, 2007 - 04:22pm PT
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Darn Straight.
Gonnah be in SD the weekend after the Sushi Fest.
Can yah tie up the kids with a sitter and bust loose?
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 14, 2007 - 05:24pm PT
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cool Tar, have a good trip.
bachar, thanks for the word.
It's cool knowing.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 14, 2007 - 06:40pm PT
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bvb,
RE:
"yep, full moon boogie is mos def a classic. loved climbing past the loose flake jammed in the slot to get to that splitter"
The guys that came after me got rid of it, I remember trying everything, Once I went up alone w/ a car jack, Surfer Dave and I had worked on it w/ a crowbar, finally it went. That start is a nasty looking slot that wasn't at that bad to climb..it just looked REALLY bad.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 14, 2007 - 11:02pm PT
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bachar wrote:
"- they thought I was nuts anyway."
Personally I'm sorry you were given that impression by the climbing community. I don't think anyone I knew or climbed with ever thought that. It was pretty obvious you had special abilities and were a leader, John.
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
e350
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Mar 15, 2007 - 10:15am PT
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Hey Roy,
Let me know what dates you'll be around to head up to Woodson.
I'd be glad to head up there with you for a tour. I'm in the same boat, haven't been crankin much crack (granite) lately and thats a shame.
James
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 15, 2007 - 10:15pm PT
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OK,
So far, it's me, F10, & maybe, if we are blessed wit da best, BVB, Mt Woodson, either Saturday April 28 or Sunday April 29.
Anyone else care to join?
Might be fun.
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