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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Aug 24, 2011 - 11:20am PT
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That is some deep sh#t Jim.....ooppps I guess that's inappropriate for this thread.
I spewed my drink through my nose. Thanks a lot!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Aug 24, 2011 - 11:49am PT
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I wish Da-Dweeb would write shorter posts.
Prod.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Aug 24, 2011 - 12:07pm PT
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Hey Jim, if you are ever on the Eastside, look me up , we could go hangdog some rap bolted choss I put up :)
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Mimi
climber
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Aug 24, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
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coz, you never did answer about the double standard surrounding your attack of the Growing Up FA while you have never done it. It cuts both ways however; read my post further down. Did you consider JB to be in the 'purity' category? I see no difference between him and Steve when it came to maintaining a high standard no matter what. Being a CA climber and knowing the rich history, why do you feel compelled to defend this FA by immaturely taking cheap shots at us?
And for any interested parties, Ron Anderson is really a new identity for our very own banned AC, Matt Moore. That explains the vile ranting emails and foul language. It's hilarious how mad he is at me. Bwahahaha!
Since when does someone have to climb a route to have the right to criticize the FA's tactics? Do you also go off on movie or music critics or sports writers? I don't know of very many movie critics who were directors or actors. Does that invalidate their review? Same with music. Same with sports. People have a right to their opinion and I have enough climbing experience and appreciation for history to state mine on this forum. Agree or not, the truth will speak for itself soon enough. And it will be substantiated by original statements made by the FA, no one else.
It would be great to see you again too, Dirk.
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
California
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Aug 24, 2011 - 02:01pm PT
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tolman_paul wrote:
I always thought the A4 and A5 rating required a sufficient number of pieces to zipper and a bad landing so that you'd either break bones or die if you pealed. 1/2 dozen bodyweight placements above a bomber piece and a clean fall would be at most A3.
I concur... or even A2. But, as Werner says, ratings don't mean sh#t.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 24, 2011 - 02:06pm PT
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coz,
you got a finger on that hand for me?
Let me guess which one (but how many fingers you got on that hand?)
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 24, 2011 - 02:32pm PT
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Coz -- "you must understand that all human endeavor is meaningless."
Then why you are afraid of death when I come to kill you?
When they say ultimately everything is meaningless then they are working for meaningless things.
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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Aug 24, 2011 - 03:33pm PT
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At some point you just have to say: "Reasonable people have largely changed their minds positively about us, while entrenched people cannot be moved and will fixate on anything they can get to justify their decades of angst. So, we've about played this out as far as it can go."
Didn't we reach that point several years ago?
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 24, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
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Since Mimi brings up "purity" again...
As I stated before NO big wall route on El Cap was done pure, that I'm aware of. Nutrcracker is a pure line. No bolts, no pins. No modification to the rock was needed.
The game for is to be as pure as possible.
SG tried to be as pure as possible with hard freeclimbing, multiple hooks moves, etc. but if a route needed a bolt was he so "pure" that he said "this line won't go without a bolt, I'm going to retreat because this is not a fully "pure" natural line?"
When JB put up the B-Y drilling from hooks was it pure? JB was the man and a legend but someone could come along some day and do that line drilling from stances. Hell someone could come along and free solo it. JB tried to be as pure as possible.
So the real question is did the WoS team botch the FA when someone else could have done it better, i.e. more pure?
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Aug 24, 2011 - 05:23pm PT
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Yes my great mentor Werner life is meaningless
Certainly true that we do not know the meaning of life, where we came from, or why. I believe that if we found out we would all be completely surprised. Still, life is wonderful and so definitely not meaningless.
I keep reading every post, and almost get tricked into more replies... but the flowchart still sums it all up nicely... so for those who have not seen it:
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 24, 2011 - 05:53pm PT
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My objection was rap bolting on the SFHD.
Coz, one of the stated reasons for rapping on Growing Up was uncertainty over where the line would go. They said the dike they initialy targeted from below for the route above the arch ended in a dead end. Would you have been opposed to inspection on rap to prevent unncessarily bolting on a dead end, if the FA party then returned to ground up for finishing the route?
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Gene
climber
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Aug 24, 2011 - 06:00pm PT
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Great!
WoS meets Growing Up.
10,000 posts. Minimum.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Aug 24, 2011 - 07:35pm PT
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Who wrote the letter to the editor of climbing mag?
GC, you have to ask Dingus how he got his name....he wrote a letter when coz and kid got busted for using power drills on el cap. or at least thats what he said about how he got his name.
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Aug 24, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
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Prod-
I wish Da-Dweeb would write shorter posts.
OK.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 24, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
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Werner = Shiva???!!!
If so, why is he always rescuing people?
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Da_Dweeb
climber
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Aug 24, 2011 - 07:49pm PT
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Irony.
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rectorsquid
climber
Lake Tahoe
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Aug 24, 2011 - 07:54pm PT
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Seems like that flow chart should have gone back to the top after the route is repeated. WOS is then in a never ending cycle of controversy or a big yawn.
Dave
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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Aug 24, 2011 - 08:17pm PT
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Which participant is this cat?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!