Wings of Steel

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TwistedCrank

climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
Aug 24, 2011 - 10:59am PT
I hope this thread and its contents never dies.

I'm looking forward to seeing Mimi again sometime (and meeting Steve as well - although we may have intersected at some time while I was in C4).

I'd like to have a burger and a coke with Richard some time, although I hope he doesn't TALK like he WRITES. And AS MUCH as he WRITES either.

Yeah, I hope this thread and its contents never dies.




And it's funny as fukk how much of a fanboy graniteclimber is for Werner and daDweeb is for madbolter1. In a Fatal Attraction kinda way. Really.


This thread and its contents should not be put out of its misery, but rather should ENJOY its MISERY.
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
Aug 24, 2011 - 11:13am PT

WOS is just another climb on a large piece of stone located on a tiny World that is a speck in a vast and rapidly expanding Universe.

Note quite. The little blue dot on the right is earth, but the green "slab" in the middle left extending from the top of the frame to the bottom of the frame is Wings of Steel. See how big it is compared to the earth.

east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Aug 24, 2011 - 11:13am PT
That is some deep sh#t Jim.....ooppps I guess that's inappropriate for this thread. Heh heh heh

madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Aug 24, 2011 - 11:20am PT
That is some deep sh#t Jim.....ooppps I guess that's inappropriate for this thread.

I spewed my drink through my nose. Thanks a lot!
Prod

Trad climber
Aug 24, 2011 - 11:49am PT
I wish Da-Dweeb would write shorter posts.

Prod.
east side underground

Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
Aug 24, 2011 - 12:07pm PT
Hey Jim, if you are ever on the Eastside, look me up , we could go hangdog some rap bolted choss I put up :)
Mimi

climber
Aug 24, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
coz, you never did answer about the double standard surrounding your attack of the Growing Up FA while you have never done it. It cuts both ways however; read my post further down. Did you consider JB to be in the 'purity' category? I see no difference between him and Steve when it came to maintaining a high standard no matter what. Being a CA climber and knowing the rich history, why do you feel compelled to defend this FA by immaturely taking cheap shots at us?

And for any interested parties, Ron Anderson is really a new identity for our very own banned AC, Matt Moore. That explains the vile ranting emails and foul language. It's hilarious how mad he is at me. Bwahahaha!

Since when does someone have to climb a route to have the right to criticize the FA's tactics? Do you also go off on movie or music critics or sports writers? I don't know of very many movie critics who were directors or actors. Does that invalidate their review? Same with music. Same with sports. People have a right to their opinion and I have enough climbing experience and appreciation for history to state mine on this forum. Agree or not, the truth will speak for itself soon enough. And it will be substantiated by original statements made by the FA, no one else.

It would be great to see you again too, Dirk.
ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
California
Aug 24, 2011 - 02:01pm PT
tolman_paul wrote:

I always thought the A4 and A5 rating required a sufficient number of pieces to zipper and a bad landing so that you'd either break bones or die if you pealed. 1/2 dozen bodyweight placements above a bomber piece and a clean fall would be at most A3.

I concur... or even A2. But, as Werner says, ratings don't mean sh#t.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Aug 24, 2011 - 02:06pm PT
coz,
you got a finger on that hand for me?

Let me guess which one (but how many fingers you got on that hand?)
WBraun

climber
Aug 24, 2011 - 02:32pm PT
Coz -- "you must understand that all human endeavor is meaningless."

Then why you are afraid of death when I come to kill you?

When they say ultimately everything is meaningless then they are working for meaningless things.
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
Aug 24, 2011 - 03:33pm PT
At some point you just have to say: "Reasonable people have largely changed their minds positively about us, while entrenched people cannot be moved and will fixate on anything they can get to justify their decades of angst. So, we've about played this out as far as it can go."

Didn't we reach that point several years ago?

the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Aug 24, 2011 - 04:31pm PT
Since Mimi brings up "purity" again...

As I stated before NO big wall route on El Cap was done pure, that I'm aware of. Nutrcracker is a pure line. No bolts, no pins. No modification to the rock was needed.

The game for is to be as pure as possible.

SG tried to be as pure as possible with hard freeclimbing, multiple hooks moves, etc. but if a route needed a bolt was he so "pure" that he said "this line won't go without a bolt, I'm going to retreat because this is not a fully "pure" natural line?"

When JB put up the B-Y drilling from hooks was it pure? JB was the man and a legend but someone could come along some day and do that line drilling from stances. Hell someone could come along and free solo it. JB tried to be as pure as possible.

So the real question is did the WoS team botch the FA when someone else could have done it better, i.e. more pure?
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
Aug 24, 2011 - 04:39pm PT
On the Bachar-Yerian:

It was originally rated 5.10d and, amazingly, also criticized for the “questionable ethics” of drilling from hooks instead of stance (which would be impossible on the vertical and gently overhung wall).


http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Tuolumne-Meadows-Medlicott-Dome-Right-Bachar-Yerian
Rudder

Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
Aug 24, 2011 - 05:23pm PT
Yes my great mentor Werner life is meaningless

Certainly true that we do not know the meaning of life, where we came from, or why. I believe that if we found out we would all be completely surprised. Still, life is wonderful and so definitely not meaningless.

I keep reading every post, and almost get tricked into more replies... but the flowchart still sums it all up nicely... so for those who have not seen it:

the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Aug 24, 2011 - 05:53pm PT
My objection was rap bolting on the SFHD.

Coz, one of the stated reasons for rapping on Growing Up was uncertainty over where the line would go. They said the dike they initialy targeted from below for the route above the arch ended in a dead end. Would you have been opposed to inspection on rap to prevent unncessarily bolting on a dead end, if the FA party then returned to ground up for finishing the route?
Gene

climber
Aug 24, 2011 - 06:00pm PT
Great!

WoS meets Growing Up.

10,000 posts. Minimum.
Hawkeye

climber
State of Mine
Aug 24, 2011 - 07:35pm PT
Who wrote the letter to the editor of climbing mag?

GC, you have to ask Dingus how he got his name....he wrote a letter when coz and kid got busted for using power drills on el cap. or at least thats what he said about how he got his name.
Da_Dweeb

climber
Aug 24, 2011 - 07:36pm PT
Prod-

I wish Da-Dweeb would write shorter posts.

OK.
Da_Dweeb

climber
Aug 24, 2011 - 07:41pm PT
Werner-

why you are afraid of death when I come to kill you?


FACT: BY SELF-ADMISSION WERNER IS DEATH INCARNATE



(Also, please have a look at my response to you back on this page when you have a chance:)

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=72849&tn=2180
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Aug 24, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
Werner = Shiva???!!!

If so, why is he always rescuing people?
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