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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Jan 11, 2009 - 12:33pm PT
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Pensyl: That guy in the pic so floated that thing that even straight guys with no prison record were lining up to blow him after the ascent.
As for the new cam, he carries them like the astronauts used to carry dimes.... to sell later with the pedigree of "this cam went up Shak N Bake,
and now you can own it".
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 11, 2009 - 01:35pm PT
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Shake and Bake, Half Ass, Abracadaver, Greasy Gizzards, Knead Me????? What's your fat fav in the Stronghold, Russ? Thus far....
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Jan 11, 2009 - 01:50pm PT
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Steve: only done one. The Shake and Bake. I think....
Got many more on the new list. Anything that starts in the guide book as, "this rarely done...." will get my attention.
Supposedly there are tons of them up there, all probably too far for me to walk, some even undone, and all a big secret..... shhhhhhh!
What would you put on a list of the best 5 or 10? I'll file a full photo spraydown report after I try your list.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 11, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
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Abra is still the crown jewel...
Right next door is Knead Me, the original big route on Rockfellow Dome. Lots of chimneying, little real OW.
I haven't done Half Ass but it is striking as hell and you won't be able to keep your nose out of it.
Bar Exam at 5.11 on Hawk Pinnacle also looks promising.
Here is the Kerry 97 adventure guide description of the area.
Lower down, Greasy Gizzards has a nasty face move after some fun wide stuff so not your cup of tea without a TR or bail piece.
Not much comes to mind off hand that is quality fat but there are a lot of routes in the west Stronghold that I haven't checked out.
You have to check out The Thing. Look for it on a large boulder right near the on ramp toward Tucson as you get back on I-10.
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Jan 11, 2009 - 09:15pm PT
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DB sold me my first pair of shoes in '87. Gratitude, dude.
Plenty of trippy times on, beneath, and inside the Rockfellow Group.
HERE HERE!
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bob
climber
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Jan 12, 2009 - 10:57am PT
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Went to Granite Mountain this weekend to get my ass into climbing shape. I friggen love G. Mtn!!!!!!!!!!!! Always brings back so many memories because it is where I really learned to climb.
I had the camera and never gave it up. I want to be the only one to bust it. Control thing I guess.
1. Ahh, heading up in the morning.
2. Buddy following 1st pitch of King Pin.
3. Buddy leading crux corner. Sorry, but butt shot was unavoidable.
4. Fella linking cracks on Coat. Candyland.
5. Buddy following 3rd pitch of King Pin the way that we linked some pitches.
6. Buddy finishing 3rd pitch with fella in back ground at the belay for Coat. Candyland
7. Buddy leading last pitch to summit. Some more ass shots. Overall, a horrible climb for sure! j/k.
8. Boys next door on C.C. just before I followed up the last pitch of King Pin.
9. We returned to the Front Porch to relax and found ourselves on another route we know as the "Hotline" in minutes. It links 1st of the Nose, 2nd of Cats Pajamas, 3rd of Reunion. Great crack line for sure right up the Flying Buttress. Left the camera at the base, but the boys on Coatimundi Candyland snapped a few when they got down. This is of me leading the last bit of Reunion's splitter finger crack.
All in all a great ending to the weekend. The weather doesn't get much better, the friends, great climbing, and the most beautiful setting did wonders for me getting back into climbing shape both physically and most important, mentally.
Yeah, I'm back in AZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Bob J.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Jan 12, 2009 - 11:01am PT
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"year of living dangerously" think it's on stronghold dome? that route ever get climbed?
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Jan 12, 2009 - 11:19am PT
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BOB-
That's it. I'm on my way!
How good does Slammer Jam look in the background....
Nice work!
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bob
climber
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Jan 12, 2009 - 11:35am PT
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Give a shout Jefe. I've got a schedule these days so..............
Definitely thought about you up there. I remember the 1st route I ever did there was Magnolia and we all met at the top. I even have some pics (unscanned) of you chilling with Scott? was his name?
Bob J.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 12, 2009 - 12:34pm PT
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Nice shots Bob! Sounds like you had a great run!
The Buddy must be pretty solid to be up there in the crux corner of Kingpin with just that one piece in there. Sweet!
Dang...might have to brave the cold.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Jan 12, 2009 - 12:49pm PT
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Anyone have that R&I article about Sedona from around 1987? I remember buying it at Scott Baxter's little shop in Flag, the Inner Basin.
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bob
climber
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Jan 12, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
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steelmnkey, not to say that my buddy isn't solid, but he's got 4 pieces in the crux photo.
Glad y'all are enjoying the pics. Thanks.
Gotta pack some days in up there before shut down. season!
Bob J.
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drljefe
climber
Toostoned, AZ
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Jan 12, 2009 - 01:12pm PT
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I'm jonesin'
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 12, 2009 - 01:18pm PT
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I hear ya Bob... missed those two up under him. Dark monitor. My buddy had about six or eight visible by that point...didn't trust one of 'em... :-)
Here's some shots from just after New Years. Route just right of Stampede on Sheepshead.
Russ nearing the top of 2...
Sooze launching...Russ at the top of 2...
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Forest
Trad climber
Tucson, AZ
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Jan 12, 2009 - 01:23pm PT
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"year of living dangerously" think it's on stronghold dome? that route ever get climbed?
That's on the east side. Entrance dome? Out-of-towners dome? I can never keep those straight. Anyway, I did the first 3 of the 5 pitches a few years back. The rock gets pretty chossy above that, but the pitches we did were verynice.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 12, 2009 - 01:28pm PT
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Another one from just after New Years.
Climb Too Tough to Die (10a/b), Sheepshead, Cochise Stronghold
Pitch 2
Working on the last pitch (6). Airy, and spectacular.
Goes left, then up the arete above.
In the heavy wind that day, nearly fell off grabbing for my hat.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Newcastle UK
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Jan 12, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
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Folks,
A few years ago I did a line between Ides of Middlemarch and Stampede. A line of bolts led up to a stance, followed by a second significantly more poorly protected pitch up a shallow groove, over an overlap and a traverse right to a stance. The third pitch was quite bouldery directly above the stance and then it fizzled out somewhat, we finished up some stuff I'd done before over to the left.
I never got a name or grade, it was good climbing, but an odd mix of super safe and bold.
Anyone know what it was?
Best,
Steve
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 12, 2009 - 09:58pm PT
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Haven't seen much mention of this route, but I always thought it was one of the coolest moderates I ever did in the Stronghold.
Days of Future Passed (5.8 A? or 5.10), End Pinnacle
Full on shot of End Pinnacle with climber at the first belay and one at the top of the second pitch.
George working on the first pitch...
George nearing the top of the second pitch.
George on the rim of the big tinajas atop End Pinnacle.
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Jan 13, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
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Lovely photos, gotta give it up for the stronghold. But, as you may know, Pine, AZ has some great rock too!
Lisa Apprill on The Proposal:
Megan on Peacenik:
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susan peplow
climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
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Jan 13, 2009 - 03:05pm PT
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Those are good Manny. Especially that of April, WOW!
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