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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Apr 26, 2017 - 10:50am PT
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Well done, Esparza!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sharks, including great whites, have been hanging out in that region at least as far back as the early 70's from my own personal experience, and from the old SanO surf club people all the way back to the inception of that spot. Once, on a classic San Onofre summer day, literally a hundred surfers (me included) watched a fairly large great white glide just 20 ft out from the outside lineup. Must have been 7-8 ft from tail to dorsal fin. Everyone on the outside just looked at the shark and each other, and stayed calm as the shark finally went past the San O point and slid under the surface apparently making its way towards Churches. That was it for shark action over the next 3 hours of surf.
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landcruiserbob
Trad climber
PUAKO, BIG ISLAND Kohala Coast
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Jul 10, 2017 - 09:48pm PT
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I'm very fortunate to surf, climb, and paddle. I love Kai and he's genuinely great for the sport.
I will say these foil boards are now in the hands of kooks and they are sitting on the outside riding waves full of peeps. Riding into the lineup. Okay I know we've been cruising 4 man canoes into the Waikiki line up long before surfers but these foil boards are dangerous.
Enjoy foiling on waves that you cannot surf, down wind etc.
I really feel surfing is going through a bad revolution at the moment with blow up vest that dumb down the danger and allow your average surfer access to 15ft Hawaiian swells.
The whole tow in generation started this bs.
Aloha and be well
Rg
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Jul 19, 2017 - 04:54am PT
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Jordy is on fire! Watching the J-Bay Open right now. I have all four quarterfinals surfers in my Fantasy Surfer lineup; and my kids are hating life because I keep texting them this factoid.
But then there is the king...
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jul 19, 2017 - 05:52am PT
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Nice foot, but what in the heck is growing off that big toe?
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Esparza
Trad climber
Westminster, CA
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Jul 19, 2017 - 11:58am PT
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I miss surfing pumping waves... hopefully soon... after my neck heals up better....
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jul 19, 2017 - 12:02pm PT
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Esparza- bulging disc?
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Esparza
Trad climber
Westminster, CA
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Jul 19, 2017 - 12:04pm PT
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I broke my neck last October... Fractured C5/C6 lateral mass with 1.5mm of displacement. Got pounded into a sandbar.... Surfing small stuff (nothing over head high.... maybe a tad bigger) on high tide these days.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jul 19, 2017 - 12:18pm PT
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Darn- get better!
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Jul 23, 2017 - 06:39pm PT
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Had a fine morning session with Randy last week.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Jul 24, 2017 - 07:49pm PT
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Calling all So Cal surfers!
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Chouinard got me out on a long board in Ventura back in the mid-60s. Never caught a wave. Loved to body surf though.
My son was an avid surfer and we always promised each other to learn the other's sport. He never became a climber and I never became a surfer. Always regretted that.
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