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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 23, 2011 - 09:47pm PT
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I'll defer to Ron when it comes to aid.
Is that why we have to suffer thru bird closures every year?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 23, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
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I make ONE troll about aid ratings, and you guys go to town on it. Sheesh.
If you ever figure it out, please let me know.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Aug 23, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
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If you ever figure it out, please let me know.
See above.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 23, 2011 - 09:57pm PT
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I love Russ walling.
Always tells it like it really is.
Aid climbing is so fuking simple "Just stick em in and stand up"
That's all ya really need to know .....
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Aug 23, 2011 - 10:36pm PT
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kinda cool how the tone of this thread has mellowed a bit ( don't hold your breath it 's sure to flare up again) my question for the gurus is: what is the fall ptiential in free climbing that takes you from PG rated to R rated? Also are bad landings factored in?
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Aug 23, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
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R rating puts you in the hospital, X rating puts you in the morgue.
To question the higher aid ratings is the same as questioning runout free ratings. People mostly don't fall and get injured on those routes, but it doesn't mean they aren't heads up adventures with dire consequences of a screwup.
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Mimi
climber
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Aug 23, 2011 - 11:10pm PT
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Ron:
"This whole WoS uproar speaks volumes about what a bunch of whack jobs we climbers are, furiously arguing over the arrangement of deck chairs while we pointedly ignore the iceberg dead ahead."
Not entirely true. Several people have pointed out crack destruction. It turns into the same old crapfest. It always comes down to people not caring about anything but their own fun.
Bwana: let's avoid the psychobabble. You ask about taking one for the team? Haven't you ever competed in sports having multiple players? He's clearly on your team. He LOVES you guys. I haven't a clue about anything else except what we've purported from the start. We ask nicely and you avoid. It's not our fault that you have severe credibility problems.
hahaha! edit: stinkeye and coz, you are such jackasses! Your beyond silly chiding is hilarious. I see way better stuff on NCAA sports forums. Your opinion is your business, but you could at least make an accurate statement about me. coz, I really can't believe what a worm you've turned into. But I keep getting reminded you were this way back then too. So much for giving you benefit of the doubt.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 23, 2011 - 11:23pm PT
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That's certainly a big factor Silver, but I have had people tell me the A4 pitch just above the Col of Conquest was a consideration.
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Mimi
climber
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Aug 23, 2011 - 11:28pm PT
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Jim, please tell us about that pitch. We need nourishment.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 23, 2011 - 11:50pm PT
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Perhaps two aid climb rating systems are needed. One more or less the classic A0 - A5, for mortal climbers. That is, from bolt ladder (A0) to 10+ m of sustained bodyweight (A4) placements, equating to a 20+ m likely fall (A5). Then the specialized one posted by Russ, for the elite and crazy. You'd simply have to be clear which version of e.g. A3 you were referring to.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day boom-chicka-boom-chicka-boom
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Aug 23, 2011 - 11:56pm PT
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It's all A1 till you fall.
A wise sage pontificated something like that once.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Aug 23, 2011 - 11:59pm PT
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Another good one is: "You make A5 A1 and you make A1 A5". I think that means be way safe on the hard stuff and get your ass moving on the easy stuff. Who said that anyway....? First time I ever heard it I think Lechlinski said it.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 24, 2011 - 12:01am PT
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Yeah
Guys who never go aid climbing need ratings and then might even need more than two ratings to spin in their heads while sitting on the couch.
All the ratings go out the door the minute you're on the lead.
Ratings are just heads up to what you might expect.
I've seen A1 pitches in topos and thought cool no problem then when I got there I sh'it in pants ......
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Mimi
climber
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Aug 24, 2011 - 12:05am PT
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Twisted, glad you're around again. I love the cat pic. Purrrrfect!
Still catching up on this thread. Russ, your rating descriptions are slightly oversimplified. WB is spot on, climb it feel it. We don't need no stinkin' ratings. LOL!
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Aug 24, 2011 - 12:24am PT
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let's avoid the psychobabble. You ask about taking one for the team?
Are we on the same planet???
What I asked you was how you have always seem to have such CERTAINTY about what the SA will find on the route. What do YOU know that the FA team doesn't know about the route?
THAT'S what I asked.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Aug 24, 2011 - 12:33am PT
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paul m wrote:
When people start enjoying the route for itself, then it will be a good route
i'd agree with that much
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Mimi
climber
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Aug 24, 2011 - 12:50am PT
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Ohhhhh, that's what you meant. Knowledge of the FA is what I was referring to. I'm patiently waiting to read about the official SA as much as anyone. It will be way better than the various SA attempt hearsay. And certainly your BS.
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