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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2019 - 06:44am PT
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Doris Troy - Just One Look
https://youtu.be/wDgT0cSm5tM
The Lower the Standards the Better
(apologies to Doris Troy)
Just one look and I fell so hard
Just one hook and I fell so hard
On the Shield that day uh oh oh oh
I found out how bad it feels
To bash my knees uh oh uh oh
Say you will, will hold my fall
Forever and always uh oh uh oh
Just one hook and I knew
I had to climb it free one uh oh uh oh
I thought I was dreaming and I wasn't wrong
Yeah yeah yeah
Oh but ah I'm gonna keep on scheming
'Til I can do it free, make it on my own
So you see I really care
Without hanging I can do anything uh oh uh oh
Just one hook and I know
I'll climb you someday uh oh uh oh
And with no hook, with just one look
--mfm
DARRELL BANKS - Open the Door To Your HEART
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWlPIAxDAA0
ALLMANS - One Way Out
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJ9twEldw_M
ALLMANS - Whipping Post
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FUvxRjYqjEQ
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2019 - 07:16am PT
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You protest In jest I hope,
as you know my magical appearance,
was neither foretold nor holy sent.
I was more rent from the devils hand,
and if not for a Phoenix
from the other forum land
and a crushing fall after the age of 50
I would not grace any pages at all.
--The Gnomic Verses
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2019 - 09:30am PT
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Occupy Democrats
February 13 at 6:51 PM
Someone asked, "Why do some British people not like Donald Trump?"
Nate White, a writer from England, made this magnificent response:
"A few things spring to mind.
Trump lacks certain qualities which the British traditionally esteem.
For instance, he has no class, no charm, no coolness, no credibility, no compassion, no wit, no warmth, no wisdom, no subtlety, no sensitivity, no self-awareness, no humility, no honour and no grace - all qualities, funnily enough, with which his predecessor Mr. Obama was generously blessed.
So for us, the stark contrast does rather throw Trump’s limitations into embarrassingly sharp relief.
Plus, we like a laugh. And while Trump may be laughable, he has never once said anything wry, witty or even faintly amusing - not once, ever.
I don’t say that rhetorically, I mean it quite literally: not once, not ever. And that fact is particularly disturbing to the British sensibility - for us, to lack humour is almost inhuman.
But with Trump, it’s a fact. He doesn’t even seem to understand what a joke is - his idea of a joke is a crass comment, an illiterate insult, a casual act of cruelty.
Trump is a troll. And like all trolls, he is never funny and he never laughs; he only crows or jeers.
And scarily, he doesn’t just talk in crude, witless insults - he actually thinks in them. His mind is a simple bot-like algorithm of petty prejudices and knee-jerk nastiness.
There is never any under-layer of irony, complexity, nuance or depth. It’s all surface.
Some Americans might see this as refreshingly upfront.
Well, we don’t. We see it as having no inner world, no soul.
And in Britain we traditionally side with David, not Goliath. All our heroes are plucky underdogs: Robin Hood, Dick Whittington, Oliver Twist.
Trump is neither plucky, nor an underdog. He is the exact opposite of that.
He’s not even a spoiled rich-boy, or a greedy fat-cat.
He’s more a fat white slug. A Jabba the Hutt of privilege.
And worse, he is that most unforgivable of all things to the British: a bully.
That is, except when he is among bullies; then he suddenly transforms into a snivelling sidekick instead.
There are unspoken rules to this stuff - the Queensberry rules of basic decency - and he breaks them all. He punches downwards - which a gentleman should, would, could never do - and every blow he aims is below the belt. He particularly likes to kick the vulnerable or voiceless - and he kicks them when they are down.
So the fact that a significant minority - perhaps a third - of Americans look at what he does, listen to what he says, and then think 'Yeah, he seems like my kind of guy’ is a matter of some confusion and no little distress to British people, given that:
* Americans are supposed to be nicer than us, and mostly are.
* You don't need a particularly keen eye for detail to spot a few flaws in the man.
This last point is what especially confuses and dismays British people, and many other people too; his faults seem pretty bloody hard to miss.
After all, it’s impossible to read a single tweet, or hear him speak a sentence or two, without staring deep into the abyss. He turns being artless into an art form; he is a Picasso of pettiness; a Shakespeare of shidt. His faults are fractal: even his flaws have flaws, and so on ad infinitum.
God knows there have always been stupid people in the world, and plenty of nasty people too. But rarely has stupidity been so nasty, or nastiness so stupid.
He makes Nixon look trustworthy and George W look smart.
In fact, if Frankenstein decided to make a monster assembled entirely from human flaws - he would make a Trump.
And a remorseful Doctor Frankenstein would clutch out big clumpfuls of hair and scream in anguish:
'My God… what… have… I… created?
If being a tw#t was a TV show, Trump would be the boxed set."
See the "clean American version" of Being a Tw#t,
that we have to call Being a Tweet Twit but it's the same show in all respects other than that...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2019 - 10:07am PT
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KAMPS & KOR
1962 HD Ascent
Thank you and shout out to Bonnie, aka Fan.
Her recent posting on Facebook.
Here are the other photos that Layton Kor shared with Bob from their 1962 ascent of the Direct NW Face of Half Dome. Some show double exposure. Stitching in the seat of Bob’s pants had given out revealing his long underwear. Long johns were needed.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2019 - 11:07am PT
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Hate mail being sent out this week, Valentine's week, for some reason.
Hate bots are programmed to hate.
It is not their fault.
Some of you may be getting hate mail generated by haters.
Let 'em hate.
--Jung Love Coalition of El Paso
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2019 - 07:03pm PT
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Down here in the flats the rain's spotty, heavy at times.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 15, 2019 - 08:10pm PT
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Could be a bruddha for da wadd he got und da whay he say stuff
Zay, climber, Monterey, Cali, Feb 15, 2019 - 08:01pm PT
David, It might be a while... im moving back to mariposa.
And that dammed sky water hasn't helped much indeed!take my numbee down...too oh nein,
seven heaven sheven, too nein nein ate*The store burned to the ground melting a cash of gear into a indistinguishable wad and a wad of cash went up in smoke.
they bulldozed over all the ash before the owner could fly home from JTree.
Heat tape wound around the wounded old plumbing was found to be the point of ignition.
The front graphixWAIT?
THE FLAMES ON THE BACK SHINNING THROUGH)(
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Feb 15, 2019 - 08:51pm PT
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Not many folks getting a good ride up there at Mavs
Never went there
But The Wedge si
These guys are having fun on skim boards (no fin to slice up your leg)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Feb 15, 2019 - 09:52pm PT
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 16, 2019 - 03:42am PT
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Replay,
from the show I felt lucky enough to have pulled off the opener.
The way it was I could have stayed pushing my luck
could have beens - should beens - ain't worth a hill of beans
I made it what it was
adrenalized 'stout' fun
no regrets
(now only the regerts)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
engaged in the sad demise of my device, it returns me soon,
too no video, while I can hear them fine.
very much the tell is that while in Chrome I dwell,
as I do dwell in shiny metal
That is mainly, what I use everywhere I use it ubiquitously.
So I'm contacted by the robot a warning sound and message to call the Number that shows on the screen
All the time, while the whole thing is going off, fog-horn blowing flashing screen, the stern voice repeatedly repeating,
the same warning and there is no way to turn it off.
Call the number, well,
I do when & if thats only an issue, some times,
Minnie Velvet is what they say the number reaches. Where the code to turn offthe blasting warrning. and remote control of the device is taken, a scan shows I've been corrupted, and they pleasant voice who compliments my gravely voice asks way to many questions about other possible devices.
there & there, by & by, a Life time fix, a 3 year fix, they always offer a choice beyond my means.
for 18 months of anti-virus coverage, they will cut the cost to below a hundred bucks
I can't, I can't tell if its a scam too
there is a factory reset T.R tells me.A way to strip, so loose everything, on the device, I'm thinking twice
Sad to say the bug count is like the Lymes of Donald Perry
beyond 4300 at last count
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2019 - 04:21am PT
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City of Rocks.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2019 - 07:18am PT
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2019 - 07:20am PT
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2019 - 07:34am PT
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It's too bad Bro Tim's internet connection shriveled up.
I don't know what happened there with that.
He's probably been a very busy little chainer on the highway at Truckee this week.
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Feb 16, 2019 - 09:42am PT
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Not your brother Tim,
no,
but some brother from another mother,
this Tim says, “Ho!”
Marquette and the Volcano
As I climbed the volcano
it erupted some gas
I fled there post haste
and debated it’s merits
and noted in my memory
it’s faults and it’s assets
had I falsely presumed
an attraction inherent
Now cold wet and freezing
I then found my way
to a moss coated forest
and a dark mildewed cave
where I thought I heard pixies
seductive as they sang
I fell into a sleep
and to dreams was enslaved
Her name was Marquette
and she played the guitar
she would sing of St Elmo
as I joined on my fife
but no love was to be
she had demons unknown
and shed many a tear
when she took her own life
I awoke from the nightmare
numb and confused
so foreign and strange were
my awareness and view
when I looked at my hand
the appendage a shock
there were five rocky fingers
where once my skin grew
Then I jumped to my feet
with a crunch and a grind
my whole body was rocky
pohoi volcanic stone
undulations of my lava
crunched as I moved
and where to I knew not
for nowhere would be home
Who would love this monster
or let alone accept
a man made of stone
tears of dust I then cried
and set off for the only place
that made any sense
to Marquette of my love
unrequited when she died
At the great craters edge
I stood teetering there
below hot eruptions
smelled sulphuric to my nose
unaffected by the gasses
as a stone man would be
still I dropped to my knees
as a lava lake rose
Oh Marquette my love
I would be with her then
dead returns to the dead
and dead forevermore
as lava swirled around me
I sank down as I swam
then was smacked by my dog’s tail
and woke up on my floor
-bushman
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 16, 2019 - 11:21am PT
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Having to restrict my time on line by such a large amount , hours. I've taken to trying to denote the trajectory of my climbing.
Back in the 1st week of the year, when the Tree came down, and the ornaments were boxed and returned to the attic.
I retrieved the boxes containing, the books & rags that shadow the history of my climbing
So while flipping through the "bible"
Skipping a bunch more Garbblebase, In the electric blue "bible"
on the few pages where notes exist, they are cryptic, they are like hieroglyphics.
Back the in the early 80s I dont think an ascent of the East Buttress of The Captain was considered much of an accomplishment, I'm not sure though?
On page 164 of the electric blue Myers/Reid Yosemite Climbs "bible" are some notes that I need someone to help me make sense of.
Not worth a scan they're in my red scrawl. Only scant Letters and single words added. All of them are added between the pitches not one comment on any of the belays, save the word "Spooky B" at the point in the middle of pitch 11, where the guidebook denotes a short slightly arching right facing corner, topped by a distinct right facing roof & the grade of (5.5).
Maybe I should have started a thread for others to add their own reflections of climbing "The East Butt"
Continuing down;
(having left out the word "Drag" scrawled above where the arrow in the book says "3rd 300 feet")
It looks like I added "mikes L" between pitch 10 & 11 and "A-1" at the start of pitch 10.
Lower down there at 7-8 where the book shows a choice of 5.9 face or 5.9 off-width, I have added at an angle under the books word "chimney" the letters "LB".(could be for Lay Back, or given the "B"a belay spot?)
Then nothing at the word "alcove" but clearly below the start of the alcove, off to the left at the end of pitch 6, the word "Gnarly" with the "Y" set off a bit.
Then there are 2 more scribbles; one saying "Alpine Cold" between pitches 3 & 4 written above the books "5.5 arete" and then above the circled number 1, just above a drawn vertical line in the book, the word "GroovE" spelled with that capital letter"E"
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2019 - 03:05pm PT
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0 one is perfect
No poem says all you want
Take it or leave it
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