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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Aug 17, 2011 - 11:08am PT
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I am pretty sure that the agreed upon ethic of not chipping, enhacing etc extends even beyond the Shut Eye area. Keep it in the Quarry!
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Aug 17, 2011 - 11:16am PT
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 11:37am PT
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Haha! Bearprints. Not like the Yosemite Park bears I guess.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Aug 17, 2011 - 12:17pm PT
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Rincon- Good to see the pass boulders getting some love and did you guys do any bouldering atop Queen's Throne?
Ludwig- You need to go check those boulders out, and it's Shuteye or as the Indians called it Goodeye.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Aug 17, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
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Sorry I got the name wrong. I do need to check those boulders out, although I am pretty sure what you call warm ups I would call boulder problems.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Aug 17, 2011 - 12:59pm PT
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Just giving you a hard time. Warm ups eh, your problems from bitd still scare the sh#t out of me and we use pads these days.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 17, 2011 - 01:55pm PT
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Rincon and I had a great time exploring the rocks.... lots of fresh potential climbing abounds. Its to bad that chipping has gone on around there.
Chipping is the same as stealing IMHO. You steal a great climb from all of US when you chip holds Mr. Doe.
You show your WEAK SELFISH PERSONALITY when you do that. What? Don't you know there are BETTER CLIMBERS than you are out there who can SEND your ROOTS on sight!
Think about that one for a while will ya. Think about it BEFORE YOU GRAB THAT CHISEL AND GO TO TOWN.
..... OK... I Can calm down now.......
looking forward to getting back up there ASAP...
Guy Keesee
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Aug 17, 2011 - 02:01pm PT
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Nice set of pics, rincon. TFPU!
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Aug 17, 2011 - 08:23pm PT
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Love the simple captions.
Having fun, good deal.
Bears... oh man.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
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What's the best guidebook for these areas. I love looking at the pictures here, but I need something I can leave in the bathroom.
All the best plans are hatched there.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
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Tom, it's this one;
http://www.amazon.com/Southern-Yosemite-Rock-Climbs-Spencer/dp/0962015806
But there is much more that is not in there. You have to pry topos from people on this thread. There are many.
Try talking to Mucci, Kev, Tork, Grahm, NateD, Slater, Mooch, Susu and others. I'm forgetting some names, but the regulars on this thread have details.
You will prolly have to contact them privately.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Aug 17, 2011 - 11:02pm PT
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OK not Shuteye but there were locals involved in the cover...
Brandon McLemore running it with Kenny Rose and Justin Ross at the belay.
And Nate D had some valuable input with the cover design that made it better.
Thanks ya'll... books coming soon. Dwight has them but he disappeared in his plane...
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 17, 2011 - 11:35pm PT
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Thanks for the tips. I knew about the old Moser book, but I don't have it. $20 is good price. My wife works at a bookstore so I can't buy from Amazon. I'll have to find another source.
On the other hand, that shuteye ridge looks real good. I think that I would head there if I could.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Aug 18, 2011 - 12:29am PT
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That's right boys, get 'em while they last!!
TOPOS in all their original and glorious variety:
hand scrawled napkin topos
obsessively vectorized topos
fading pencil topos
colorful photo topos
artsy painted topos
skewed xerox topos
wood carved topos
3D holographic topos
backwards topos
dirt & blood stained topos
drawn in the dirt topos
tattooed topos
nameless topos
top secret topos
invisible ink topos
imaginary topos
.....!!
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Aug 18, 2011 - 12:44am PT
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is bluey still alive?
wat about karl and pass the peton to werner,
how many freaks are thre?
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 18, 2011 - 03:44am PT
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Save your money and dont buy the old Spencer book, all the mileage has changed in the passing years (continental drift???) and the roads seem to have different numbers than in the olden days. It is the worst example of a guide book ever written. This is not evident when your looking at it in REI, but becomes very clear when you use it.
My .02 cents on the place is this and I have been there three times in the last 5 weeks.
You need a sturdy vehicle, ground clearance at a minimum, 4 x 4 is better, a real military hummer would be optimum. I wont be taking the Lotus again.
The place is sort of like Joshua Tree in the mountains. It is very complex with little and big cliffs, some hidden from view, with devious approaches. I am sure that there are unclimbed areas.
The climbs are varied from very modern sport climbs- ie bolts at your knees while you clip to very run-out test pieces that remind me of Tobins, Bachars, Leversees and Ron Carson climbs. I haven't found any chipped deals but I am not doing 5.12. The stone is as good as it gets with lots of GOLDEN GRANITE that is nice and steep in many places with features you can grab.
All in all we have had a great time going up there. The 6 hr drive is worth it. It makes me want to move to Fresno and that is scarey. You climbers who live nearby are lucky and you boys should control the rif-raf who are doing bad things to the stone. I reckon a 5.15 is hiding up there on the featured, steep, golden, knobby, water worked stone.
Late
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Aug 18, 2011 - 04:11am PT
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is bluey still alive?
Toe to toe w/ weschris this morning - didn't flinch in the least, and the OP microwave melted down and fell on his sword.
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Santa Rosa & Bishop, CA
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Aug 18, 2011 - 05:14am PT
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I got some money but no time to climb, thanks to nursing school. Cant wait for some golden granite against my tips.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Aug 18, 2011 - 10:43am PT
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I like one thing about the Spencer book, by his ratings I can climb some 5.12!
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Aug 18, 2011 - 11:36am PT
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did you guys do any bouldering atop Queen's Throne?
Yeah but only scratched the surface...that area is a boulderers heaven!
We wandered around and then followed a freshly trodden trail to a area with routes on a super steep faces. The routes on this wall looked like 5.13s...
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