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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nice back edit. Were those dead climbers repeating your routes while on aid? If not, what is your point here?
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Getting back to the Pinnacles:
Machete Direct
Everyone does it once. Only a fool would climb the whole thing twice.
Costanoan
Just when I thought it couldn't get any worse those yahoos rappel bolted 5.6, with lot of 'em.
Recommended: Lava Falls and Shake and Bake. They both bear repeated viewings.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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No back-edit from me.
One of the dead climbers was doing "Vertical 'V'," which we rated A3. You are about twenty feet above talus when you can get your first placements in an expanding block. Apparently he pulled the second or third placement, ripped the rest, and went into the talus.
I know about the second from a brief newspaper article which placed him on one of the routes in the "Roof Area." That area has a number of A4 routes, all on expanding blocks. Again, apparently something pulled, and he went to the ground.
Steve, you perpetually conflate "greatness" with something else (I'm not clear what). In my mind "greatness" includes many, many attributes in addition to difficulty (one reason why I don't think of WoS as "great"). Almost everything at the Quarry should not be called "great" in my opinion (I can think of a couple of routes that might be "great"). It's a 200 foot high vertical to overhanging cliff of blasted, broken stone. It is loose! It is unappealing. During the summer is is relentlessly hot, and when the Santa Anas blow through there, it is just miserable. There are many reasons to call the Quarry a steaming pile of dung.
However, what the Quarry does have is underrated (by Valley standards), very technical and dangerous aid climbs.
We trained there prior to our ascent of the Sea, and we found many of our A4s and all of our A5s to be dramatically harder than anything on the Sea. And if you want to learn REAL expanding aid, the Quarry is unsurpassed. The tricks and delicacy you learn there if you want to survive will stand you in good stead anywhere, particularly at the Valley!
So, say what you want in perpetual ignorance... but this is just another example of you dissing routes you've never climbed. Your clear M.O. at this point is that ANYTHING the Mad Bolters have ever done MUST be crap. But, at this point, that's an old dog that can no longer hunt. You would do better to settle into your rocking chair on the front porch with that old dog and dream of the old days when the world was clear on two fundamental things: Grossman was GREAT, and the Mad Bolters were pariah. (Somehow, strangely, those two seem intimately tied together.) Sitting in your rocker with a quilt on your lap and your trusty dog by your side, you can convince yourself that such a world still exists. Maybe even have a few friends over to sit in their own rockers and pet the dog.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Diédre at Squamish is quite overrated. (It's in the Americas, though not in the US.)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Wow, I thought my sarcasm was obvious enough...
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Creak, creak... yawn.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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About Double Cross...It wasn't just the number of bolts, but the sheer size that got me wondering...
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Now THAT is indeed overbolted! However, chopping it could present some problems....
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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grant f, and yo climbed BY when ? And then you put up a slighty more difficult route after that ? Jess asking, maybe you have and I don't recognize your name. Peace, lynnie
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Quartziteflight, lol, yeah, the spooning with dudes would be negatory.....unless yo were a dudette. :D
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Oh, don't get me started! I will defend Wings of Plywood until the end of the age! THAT was a GREAT route by any measure, and all you cellulosephobes that can't handle the hard woods just aren't thinking objectively!!!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Yew wood say that.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Oh, Mighty, more sarcasm. I get it.
Well, YOU clearly haven't lived, because you haven't lived until you're a FULL Husky Dual-Sided tape run out above a rusting 16 penny sinker driven into a void, with your tool belt rattling from your sewing machine legs resulting from the sickening realization that you're into a section of delaminated, weathered 1/2-inch AC when you got yourself that run out in the first place because from below it looked to be a section of 1-inch CDX. THAT's when you know you're into some hard wood, and Wings of Plywood is the ONLY place in the world where you can experience something like that!
Overrated? Bah! Get past that delaminated section alive and THEN you can talk.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Ideeho-dee-do-dah-day
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Any climb that creates more than a line of spray is overrated.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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You can see that at the base of the Nose.......BIG line o' spray.
Punks.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oh sure, throw the jargon and big numbers around like you know what you're talking about. "Full Husky Dual-Sided", "rusting 16 penny sinker", "delaminated, weathered 1/2-inch AC", "1-inch CDX". I'm surprised that you don't also boast that Robbins and Chouinard and Frost and Harding and Donini and Porter and Sutton and Burton and Bridwell and all those other heroes didn't even see the line, let alone have the intestinal fortitude to try it. And that bit about your "exclusive" high-fibre diet - as though we don't know what that's all about, eh Mr. Metamucil? Not that you seem to have problems in that department - or was that someone else?
Nope, the veneer is rapidly peeling from your extravagant claims about Wings of Plywood. The morals & ethics panel has decided. Soon the only apPLYing you'll be doing is for a job humping drywall or something, dreaming of having a backyard woodie like the rest of us. Some kind of woodie, anyway.
And your unkind remarks about genuine Canadian OSB are causing problems for Obama's foreign relations.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
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Phhsst... you just caused me to produce a Mighty spew...
That's out of my mouth, btw!
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