Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
cowpoke
climber
|
|
tradchick, looking up at chiloe before he made the traverse, I wondered if our day might be wet too.
|
|
tradchick
Trad climber
Vermont
|
|
Cowpoke and Chiloe: I was surprised the cliff was so wet after 3 days of sun, wind and warm temps. Nice that you found some dry climbs too!
And Chiloe, I'm with you, I don't like that traverse!
|
|
meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
|
|
I hate the bees that haunt the next part of that traverse. 4th class + bees=suck!
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2010 - 09:25am PT
|
meclimber:
I hate the bees that haunt the next part of that traverse. 4th class + bees=suck!
Yep, there was bees nesting in the dirt on the tree ledge. They got all agitated when we climbed past.
tradchick:
Nice that you found some dry climbs too!
The traverse had some wet streaks, but we were happily surprised by how dry Ladyslipper itself was.
Below, Cowpoke pauses before committing on the big pitch (5.9+). The line crosses the black streak
to his right, then continues up near the right margin of the black streak on steep face climbing until
you reach an overhanging layback at the top.
|
|
cowpoke
climber
|
|
I hate the bees that haunt the next part of that traverse.
Yeah, they were already out-n-about. They seem to "bivy" in the dirt around the tree in Chiloe's first single-point anchor picture.
edit: oops, looks like we were simul-posting bee comments, Larry.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2010 - 09:35am PT
|
|
|
Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
|
|
Chiloe and Cowpoke, thanks for the memories. I did Ladyslipper maybe 20 years ago, I think with Angelini, and remember it being quite fun climbing on that wide open face.
Well done on the early season tick!
At the moment I am sidelined with a nagging turf toe injury that prevents any weighting of my left big toe, so until it heals I will have to live vicariously through TRs and photos. Keep 'em coming.
Please!
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2010 - 11:16am PT
|
Nice views from the South Buttress as always. The rock season hasn't always started this early!
The real snow is all gone at this elevation, but across the valley the last remnants of fake snow
at Mt Cranmore ski area are hanging on a bit longer.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2010 - 11:19am PT
|
Cowpoke looking understandably pleased with his lead.
|
|
tradchick
Trad climber
Vermont
|
|
Nice pics and looks like you had a great day!!
That's one of the few routes I've missed at WH (in my climbing range). Guess I'll have to add that to my list.
|
|
L
climber
Training for the Blue Tape Route on Half Dome
|
|
Aaaaaahhhhhhh...nothing like a good vicarious climb under blues skies first thing Monday morning! (Especially when it's raining cats-n-canines here.)
Muy gracias!
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2010 - 11:54am PT
|
We hung out on that ledge quite a while, soaking up perfect short-sleeves weather. Then the
conversation turned to food and it was time to head down. Descending from Ladyslipper, like
the approach, is not quite brain-free. A couple of diagonal, 2-rope rappels past snaggy trees
and loose flakes, and in between them scrambling back across that 4th-class traverse.
Driving home we talked over the sad state of the nation and what we ought to climb next.
|
|
Jim E
climber
away
|
|
Damn. I tried really hard to make arrangements to join you guys. People were called, deals were made. In the end I was the one left holding the bag.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2010 - 12:09pm PT
|
Yeah, Jim we missed you. The weather will never again be as pleasant or black fly-free
as it was on the weekend you couldn't go climbing!
|
|
cowpoke
climber
|
|
Damn. I tried really hard to make arrangements to join you guys. People were called, deals were made. In the end I was the one left holding the bag.
We also said, "Damn. Wish Jim had made it." Good news? The whole season is before us.
edit: oh boy, Chiloe = cruel.
|
|
cowpoke
climber
|
|
By the way, Jim, I had a Whitehorse-related question for you that came up during our reasonably-protected fun on Ladyslipper: how old were you when you did the FA of Body Surfing? Or, more to the point, how long had you been climbing?
Just the name of that bold line gives me the willies.
|
|
Jim E
climber
away
|
|
I was probably about 22 or 23 which meant I had been climbing for about 10 years, but only seriously for maybe 6.
The short bit where it leaves Standard is kind of cool and well worth doing. The upper (crux) part where it parallels Wavelength is stupid and quite possibly deadly.
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2010 - 01:53pm PT
|
Has Body Surfing been repeated?
|
|
Jim E
climber
away
|
|
I have no idea.
It's really not worth doing. Although, I think the first overlap would be a reasonable variation to the start of Wavelength.
|
|
meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
|
|
Great pics guys, we did wonderwall lastfall and climbed that ladyslipper pitch to the anchors below that last corner in the upper right of your photo. The ladyslipper pitch or at least what we did was kinda creepy if fun. The traverse right was a breath holder!!!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!