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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Apr 24, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
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"5.7 chimney, easy and usually no pro. climbs like 5.4
5.8+ OW, could be up to 11a
5.9 squeeze, about 11c
10a OW, usually 10a
10c OW, could be up to 12a
10d OW, never harder than 11d
5.11A OW, just techniquie, maybe like 3 moves of 5.8+
5.11+ OW, really only 5.9 fist but usually after a string of 11b rings
5.12 OW, a pure circus move, but the move might be in the 5.17 range
5.13 OW, said to not exist. Probably like many 5.8+ moves in a row."
Truer words were never typed.
Quit it Russ, you're getting coffee all over my computer screen!
Brutus
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Apr 24, 2009 - 03:03pm PT
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"my observation is that almost all 5.11 OW probs are overhanging...
counter examples?"
I don't remember Hypertension overhanging much. But a grim size if you got fat knees.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Apr 24, 2009 - 11:00pm PT
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Jaybro
Youse guys shudda taken that stove pipe and cut it up
into chock size chunks. What pro--REALLY BIG BROS!!!!!11111
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Apr 24, 2009 - 11:34pm PT
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"Dale would have walked it in the old days. "
Scuffy--I'm going to go out on a limb and say that Skeletor could probably walk it THESE days so long as his shoulder is back in place. Dale's still mighty strong!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Apr 25, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
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Word around the campfire is that someone ( I will leave you to guess her identidy) attempeted an onsight lead of the Gristle, and almost nailed it, taking one, 'biscuit', as the britts used to say.
Action photos I forgot to post from the gristle approach;
#6 Friend for scale, He is one large, bull tortuga! Tortuga Grande?
An artist contemplating suchness, Freddy and the Beak, considering a new line.
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Shanti
Trad climber
Somewhere in the Bering Sea
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Apr 25, 2009 - 01:55pm PT
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Ya know I think Will may have been onto something when he decided to lieback the Gristle judging by the blood all over the right shoulder of my shirt (and everyone else in the compound, eh?) Next time -- lots more motrin, injectable Lidocaine, more tape and Red Bull!!! MAD FOR IT!!!!!!!!
PS Jaybro those turtle shots are some sick action photos!!!!!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Apr 25, 2009 - 03:28pm PT
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You need to see the movie! The suspense never stops.
Lidocaine in a spike, so that's the true "mild injectible™"
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Apr 25, 2009 - 03:50pm PT
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and, while I am still here,
This young lady mentioned, last week, that she worked for TV news in LA. I asked her, when could we tune in to see her on the tube,
she said,"I'm behind the scenes, not purdy enough to be in front of the camera."
now in how many ways is she wrong about that?
I'm feeble, these days, but I can count on one hand all the people I've met in the last half century, with a smile like that!
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Shanti
Trad climber
Somewhere in the Bering Sea
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Apr 25, 2009 - 04:49pm PT
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OK does the name "Flouride" have anything to do with the great smile?! A joy to meet you Flouride -- more brandy in those "Foo Foos"!!!! ~Shanti
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Apr 25, 2009 - 06:09pm PT
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OMG Moab Beth
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Apr 25, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
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Okay, move along, I'm sure we've embarrassed her, enough...
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Fletcher
Trad climber
the end of the world as we know it, & I feel fine.
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Apr 25, 2009 - 06:27pm PT
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I finally got around to reading this thread today (procrastinating doing more mundane things). HIghly enjoyable, though I have to say, now that I've gone through it in one push I feel scared, fat and wimpy... and I'm relative youngster compared to some of these peoples.
Eric
P.S. But then again, wranglin' a three year old in terrorist mode, a five year old and anticipating another one arriving sometime next week may be somewhat on par with the strenuosity of OW. LOL
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Apr 25, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
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"scared, fat and wimpy" check, you're in the club, don't worry.
Don't worry about about being too young, them babies gonna age ya, though you prolly already know that. My sister in law is expecting next week, (they will induce on May day if needed) her parents, who don't speak english, are here for three months to 'help'. Little bro is five years younger than myself and he has clearly aged years past me, in the last week, alone!
Hang on and good luck! Gotta say there is an upside to having my daughter be an adult.
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Fletcher
Trad climber
the end of the world as we know it, & I feel fine.
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Apr 25, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
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Hang on and good luck! Gotta say there is an upside to having my daughter be an adult.
Thanks for the encouragement... there's hope for me yet... and I already own a rugby shirt! I've always felt a strange affinity for the wide... the abyss is pulling me in, deeper, deeper...
I do have a twenty year old too... so I appreciate it when they dress and feed themselves and sleep all day... and you can share your appreciation for things like the Colbert Report!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Apr 25, 2009 - 07:02pm PT
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Too funny!
Nat is a Colbert fan, as well! We laugh through it together, all the time... cheers!
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Shanti
Trad climber
Somewhere in the Bering Sea
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Apr 25, 2009 - 11:37pm PT
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Beer or Big Bro? What do YOU need to climb offwidths?! HJ displaying the new skills he has acquired over the week in Joshua Tree.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Apr 25, 2009 - 11:59pm PT
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Hieronymus Josch, with Beer 'n' 'bro! One of those has gotten me up way more climbs than the other. I got one of those cool shirts last week, too.
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HJ
climber
Bozeman, Montana
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Apr 26, 2009 - 12:07am PT
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Here is an image from my funny camera of Beth, Jay, Billy and Will hanging out.
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BooYah
Social climber
Ruby Range
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Apr 26, 2009 - 12:30am PT
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Fishlite is delicious.
Mmmmmmmmmm.
Aldude, begone.
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Oxymoron
Big Wall climber
total Disarray
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Apr 26, 2009 - 12:43am PT
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Floride is HOT!
Meow.
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