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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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Feb 17, 2009 - 01:02am PT
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Ricky D,
I've put up several routes on the formation. I've forgotten the names of many of them. Almost all of them were put up from the ground up rope solo (no hooking) after guiding days at SYMG, so wherever the bolts are, were from stances looking at serious falls myself...On the steep tier (the 3rd) above the slabby part (the 2nd), there is a route or two that are Mark Spencer FA's that have been rebolted, and all the rest were put in by Jerry A as far as i know. BTW he is a tall dude!!!
I remember free soloing on the formation when a huge tree between me and the road spontaneously fell over!!! It was so loud i thought the world was coming to an end and nobody that i know of besides me heard it. i was pretty sketched!
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Feb 17, 2009 - 07:53pm PT
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Hey Gang...Tiki-Ger, Matt, Nater, munge etc!
Been out of the office breaking the govt's "33 million dollar a copy Sierra noise maker". ;) Good stuff and sweet pixs too. As Nate mentioned, SoYo is deeply embedded in my soul. What a great place it is. "Cyndi" agrees too, eh Nate? BTW, slashed up pale, hairy legs are unbecoming there in the Bay area these days.
Props to 'King Tiki-Ger'....long live the king!
Tiki-Ger on some fine SoYo slab
Grahm on 'Twilight' (.12d), Lost Eagle. This route is on the buttress behind Ger in the previous photo.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Feb 17, 2009 - 07:59pm PT
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Very sweet looking rock and location for sure.
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Feb 17, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
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Oh yeah....consider your backside smooched by the mooch DMT. El Cid SUCKS ASS! Its gone downhill. Rather get a can of corned beef hash from the Jones Store...shelf life dated 1305 BD.
Salsa?? You mean the weak watery tomato bits they serve to keep a starving person at bay? Pffffffttttt.....
Much love,
Dave
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Feb 17, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
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OH NOOOOOO - you had to go and mention the word "salsa"!!!!
That's what killed the last SoYo thread.
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Feb 17, 2009 - 08:26pm PT
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Crazy Horse (aka Neil's Son) -
What was that route you and I did on Gray Eagle that was right of Lightning Bolt (I believe you see the start on the left part of the photo)...possibly a Sean Jones route? .10c?? Stellar good stuff....runout slab above as I remember....or did I skip a few along the way? ;)
Hey Munge.....Brutus and The Good Nurse Ratchet gave Ger, Nate and myself the invite to Hoffman this go around. Sounds like supreme fun!!
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Feb 17, 2009 - 09:07pm PT
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Nice shot of the King on his throne!
Heres a few more.
Tom Slater on See You In Heaven - 10a
A mysterious well featured wall with all gear routes.
Hanging 30 - 11d High Ball
Swing Town - 13a or b
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Feb 18, 2009 - 10:09am PT
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Hey Grahm, Very nice picture of Hanging 30.
Love the gnarly tree and the snowcapped peaks.
That pyramid shaped boulder below looks like a head splitter.
How's the landing?
Was that 'Prolly Bomber' on the the mysterious wall?
Ger
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Feb 18, 2009 - 10:15am PT
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Mooch, I am in NO way a King.
Only a lowly court jester or a freak on a leash.
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Feb 18, 2009 - 11:19am PT
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Hey Ger,
The landing on Hanging 30 is "good" in places. The crux is going out the middle of the roof down and right of the pic. A blind throw to the lip while your body is horizontal 20 feet above some bushes. Then the easier moves of the finish move out left over the death pyramid. Pretty easy to set up a top rope for working it.
Good eyes that is indeed "Probably Bomber". Did I hear correct that you got the second on "The Spice Is Right". Just to the right?
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Feb 18, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
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Court jester? I thought that was Nate. ;) Pretty sure I've been appointed as 'The Bushmaster'.....trusty lopers in hand!
More good stuff: The Bushmaster on "Snackin' With Oprah", 10b (Taffy Wall)...
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Feb 18, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
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Grahm, I don't think I,ve done that yet.
Did you ever get on WingMan?
Ger
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Feb 18, 2009 - 02:49pm PT
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Don't think any of us has tackled 'The Spice Is Right'. After hearing Grahm grunt a bit thru the stretched out crux (I think it was a slung marginal chickenhead 20-25' below), I would more than likely require some "liquid courage" prior to the attempt. As I recall, a fall at that point might end up as a face plant on the deck below! =[
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Feb 18, 2009 - 07:43pm PT
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Ahhhh, yes....the beloved 'Melting Wall'! Slings anyone? :)!!Good shot of you Grahm on 'Prolly'! As I remember, you're just below the crux (The "Prolly Bomber" piece: #5 Met TCU?)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Feb 18, 2009 - 07:49pm PT
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The way the rock is featured in that area is stunning!
(almost like the rock was designed by a climber)
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Feb 18, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
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Nice shot of "Snackin". Looks like fun. I think I see some steep stuff to the left? No don't tell me, I have enough to do!
Haven't tried Wingman yet. Maybe I'll get a chance before the Shuteye Pool Party this year...
For "Spice" you get to sling those bomber chicken heads just right of my foot. After that you have to go aways. I do remember grunting and not wanting to fall!
Yup, a sweet tcu on "prolly" is key just before launching into the crux. It slides in between two knob flakes. I remember thinking its "Probably Bomber".
Speaking of the pool party...
Does something smells like wet dog!?
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mooch
Big Wall climber
The Immaculate Conception
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Feb 19, 2009 - 01:28am PT
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HA! As you know, the steep stuff is always "just around the corner". Nice shots G.
Ah, yes....the pools. What a great place to cool off after a day of climbing!
And before its asked by......its somewhere in SoYo. ;) You boys and girls can keep The Big Ditch.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 19, 2009 - 02:41am PT
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Brutus coming up on Red Tail
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scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2009 - 11:57am PT
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So it seems the "salsa" at El Cid's ain't so great these days.
Where's the GOOD stuff, then?
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 19, 2009 - 12:07pm PT
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I'll bring my chopping board and some homegrown 'maters when we all rendezvous in the heat of the summer to share a pulldown and a brew in celebration of these Hinterlands that I can't quite bring myself to call SoYo.
This has been a GREAT ride here. I've learned so much and become so inspired and my drool list is reaching bout to my knees by now. I had no idea so many are so active, and the stone you're posting is nothing short of stellar. Now I'm so ready to met you guys and share a campfire...with salsa.
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