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perswig
climber
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Jul 28, 2009 - 07:48pm PT
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Kinda hate when that happens.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Jul 28, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
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At least the rope is still above.
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perswig
climber
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I'd just like to thank whatever butterfly flapped its wings over the Adriatic for the stretch of magnificent weather we've had here in the NE.
Dale
Edit: Windfall, Chiloe?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2009 - 08:12am PT
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Right on.
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meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
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Stone House is now open! Been out during the week the past couple weeks after work and it's been great. Going out tonight as well.Besides the people I regularly climb with, I haven't seen signs of or heard of anybody else out there again. Of course local kids swiming and having fires! I had forgotten how much high quality climbing is there, great face routes, great cracks. And all about 15 minutes from my house.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2009 - 09:13am PT
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That's happy news, meclimber. Any restrictions, new beta or rules we should know about?
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meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
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I just read part of the management plan but it was the glossy version so not much of the nitty gritty (new hardware, hardware replacement, ice, trails, etc. It didn't list any restrictions beyond the obvious; no camping, fires, booze (sigh), atvs. We've been there till about 10-10:30 most nights so I don't think that there is a curfew. I triend to call the local PD to see if I could find out any more info. I do need to pump Joe T's mind for what all of the routes are and what there REAL grades are. But I will continue to post any new info that I get.
-Jon
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2009 - 11:33am PT
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Good eye, Perswig, that's Cowpoke on Windfall above.
The holds on that route have got smaller, and the pro farther apart, since the last time
I climbed it. Funny how that keeps happening.
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meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
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Nice eye Dale, I didn't see it.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2009 - 01:52pm PT
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Here's Cowpoke's shot looking up, climber almost exactly the same place.
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meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
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Now I see it.
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perswig
climber
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"The holds on that route have got smaller, and the pro farther apart, since the last time
I climbed it."
Well, it IS almost a sport route...
Ha.
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perswig
climber
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The route
Party in front of us at the start
The party in front was 4 on 2 ropes, 2 very green climbers in the bunch. We did some interesting variations to try to stay out of their way, and they let us pass at the crux, leading to a spicy section of face moves right trying to gain the already-awkward laybacks. From below, I always think "what's with all the pins" and when I'm making the moves, I'm clipping and tying them off left and right.
Troy exiting the crux
"Fairy wall" on the left. I never remember to look for the entry down low, except for on my first trip up, when I was too gripped by the whole situation to want to make the committing but 5.6 moves out onto the face.
Belaying the last section
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perswig
climber
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Troy at the top (but not the summit by a long shot)
The way off and down
No, wait, this way down
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perswig
climber
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Some views from the day
Some drama on the slabs. No injury, but gripped in place for a bit
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perswig
climber
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Thanks for stopping
Dale
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perswig
climber
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Looking at the pics, I think I can see the intimation of fall. It certainly felt and smelled like it Saturday.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2009 - 08:01pm PT
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Fine weather up high, eh? Glad you brought back some photos.
So what's the story of drama on the slabs?
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perswig
climber
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Not sure what was going on. A hiker did not budge from his/her spread-eagle spot through three of our short upper pitches; finally, 2 hikers from above, maybe part of the same party?, came down and the two lower hikers made it up and they talked and/or yarded the 'fixed' one into the shrubbery and relative safety.
At about the same time, two other potential (minor) epics could have been occurring.
The leader of the group we passed had made it through the crux and set up his anchor, but after a short period of his second following was seen to rig a haul setup. While we were still behind them, I had done some coaching from below for the second at the first dihedral and at the 'beached-whale' mantle, so the crux was likely to be pretty intimidating from him. We waited at a discreet distance but within earshot for a reasonable time to see if consult/assistance was needed, but things stayed quiet.
As we were nearing the finish, we also heard another party - either way below us, or on Mechanic's, or over on Henderson - with the leader yelling "Jorg...", pause, "Jorg...", pause, "Jorg...", pause for what seemed like 5 minutes, then yelling "Give me some god-damn fuking slack, now." for a bit.
Eventually the shouting stopped, so some progress up or down was made.
Surprisingly quiet crowd-wise on the garden as we walked off. No complaints from me.
Now I want to hear about meclimber's day on Cannon.
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