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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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My favorite climbing shoes: Galibier Vercors
(You didn't specify "rock shoes")
Bugaboos
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Kenygl
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Mega's were my all time favorite
Note narly rasta chalkbag circa 1988, it was rad in it's day but a little BIG!!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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^^^^
They don't need re-soling, just a bit of shoe goo.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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had these babies 16 years and counting.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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but these are mostly what I wear these days.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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I still have a pair of those Boreals, too. Not my favs, though, a bit too stiff and hard on the doggies.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 10, 2012 - 01:50am PT
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The TC Pro's by La Sportiva are my current favorite. Most technical/comfortable shoe I've ever owned. Some of us have agreed that they knock off two letter grades on certain stemming climbs. Amazing shoes.
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steele
Trad climber
CA
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Aug 13, 2012 - 10:58am PT
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Having flat duck feet my choice is my old 94 boreal ballet golds. Old style and fruity name but they get the job done on face or crack, gym or trad. Boreal ace is #2 for thin edges or intense vertical cracks because they are so darn stiff. #3 is any Velcro shoe for comfort and laziness when you don't mind climbing a grade lower. Lots of memories in the old ballet golds- and cost only $75 back thenand today's $150 if you can find them.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 13, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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My wife says she will have to quit climbing when her old style (wine colored) huecos finally expire.
Barry has been keeping my old style Huecos in operating condition. I also still use a pair of RR's for aid and walls and a pair of Fires (re-soled with C4) for ow. Otherwise, it's whatever fits.
My all-time favorite, though, were 5N Galibier PA's (to distinguish them from the originals, that were more like EB's in color and construction). I've never had a shoe that fit better, or held an edge better.
I got a good laugh from Roger's 2005 post, because it pretty well fit my experience (except that I used RR's enough to have two pairs). I particularly identified with the Allen Edmonds reference.
John
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Aug 13, 2012 - 03:52pm PT
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I can't wear anything with turn down toes.
I loved the asolos run-outs. I can't count how many pairs of those I had. I was forced to move on and finally fell in love with the 5.10 huecos. The last pair of those I had were resoled many times, until the shoe grew a permanent slime inside and stunk. I finally had to great kid of them after throughly trashing them on a long 4rth class descent in the dark. I bought two more pairs, exactly the same size. But the model must have been improved, and they do not fit like the old faves.
I have a closet full of shoes worn just a few times that just don't perform or won't break in. The mythos are the closest to functional that I have. But they are pointy where my feet are not. I'm slawys reselling shoes that I wore and could not love.
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pc
climber
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Aug 13, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
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I've been in the same shoes from almost the beginning. If it ain't broke...
Kaukulators for almost everything
Boreal Ninja's for the occasional (very occasional these days) hard bouldering/sport climbing adventure.
Cheers,
pc
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MikeL
climber
SANTA CLARA, CA
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Aug 14, 2012 - 10:00am PT
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I'm with S.Leeper. Boreal Ballet Gold's for OW, and those 5:10s for all-day climbs. In the last years of climbing, I began to wear those purple lace-up Sportiva's (can't remember the name) which were very comfortable.
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 24, 2017 - 10:12am PT
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just added the TC pro to my list of all time favorites. What a shoe. Does it all in style, now my go to all day technical shoe. My mythos are collecting dust.
Testarossa continues to rock steep stuff.
Miuras - always....
Miura XX-looking forward to breaking these in.
Genius- learning to use my feet again but these things are impressive.
Otaki- not sure where to place this in my quiver yet.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Apr 24, 2017 - 10:40am PT
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I felt like I could climb anything in my LaSportiva Megas. I wish I'd bought a dozen pairs. It was just the perfect fit, could wear them all day, no problem.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Apr 24, 2017 - 11:53am PT
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Apr 24, 2017 - 12:59pm PT
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I'm with Gary upthread. The Megas were the best edging shoes I ever climbed in, were perfectly fine for everything else, and were comfortable as well.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Apr 24, 2017 - 01:26pm PT
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I have two pairs of Boreal Ballets resoled by Barry Chambers of Barry's Resoles.
One pair has Stealth soles.
One pair has Stealth soles and a secret weapon thin plastic insole that Barry made and fit in the front of the shoes. Very sweet edging tool.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Apr 24, 2017 - 01:32pm PT
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La Sportiva Katana Lace and Miura.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Apr 24, 2017 - 01:41pm PT
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I loved my old Huecos. They rotted and died, sadly. They also stank to high heaven. But I could do moderate stuff all day, and then walk off with no foot pain.
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