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tiney
Sport climber
CA
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Nov 24, 2009 - 01:17am PT
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is the climbing there bolted?????
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Slabby D
Trad climber
B'ham WA
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Nov 24, 2009 - 01:41am PT
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How do you legally prevent someone from writing a guidebook to an area?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
. . . not !
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Nov 24, 2009 - 03:57am PT
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Is this in the San Pedro Martir area ?
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 24, 2009 - 04:26am PT
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tiney,
The friction routes are bolted or partially bolted. 100% trad style from the ground up, on lead. Spacing between bolts leans toward the adventurous.
Slabby D,
Are you asking about this area, or in general? The answer is different in Mexico than for the USA. See previous page.
ß Î Ø T Ç H,
No, it is not in the Sierra San Pedro Mártir.
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powderdan
Social climber
mammoth lakes
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Nov 24, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
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insane thread!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 24, 2009 - 07:01pm PT
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Don't laugh, Mnkey. I myself got a $101 semi annual royality check just the other day, hog heaven, Phat city!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Nov 24, 2009 - 09:17pm PT
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J-Bro said:
"I myself got a $101 semi annual royality check just the other day, hog heaven, Phat city!"
Sweet! Livin' large!!! Now you can hook up with some razor blades!! :-)
(just kiddin')
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Nov 24, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
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Mr. Keesee, I'd give my right *** to have a shot of our "E" swallowing the Mescal Worm...
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Nov 29, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
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Came across this thread again, having posted much earlier on in it.
I've enjoyed many a trip down there and have more than a few handfuls of FA's (bolted and otherwise) there. I've been lucky enough to have some limited info on my trips down there, but always far less than I would have normally liked to have had. To be 100% honest, that lack of detailed info has more than magnified my experiences down there.
I watched from the sidelines when the whole guidebook drama was going down a few years back, and am very happy that it ended the way it did. JS did the (Mexican and American) climbing community a real service in my mind by acting as he did and preventing what I'm sure would have been a piss-poor guidebook to an area that has always been fine without one.
Not sure when or if I'll find my truck headed that way again, but if I do - I'll be fine with driving in circles a little bit as I try to follow the ever-changing roads. Likewise, I'll enjoy climbing whatever routes I stumble across and the cold cervezas that always make the campfires so special down there.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 29, 2009 - 11:00pm PT
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Make the effort to get there and you will be rewarded. Some areas should remain adventure climbing. This thread provides plenty of information on the older routes otherwise trust your judgment.
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Brian
climber
California
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Nov 29, 2009 - 11:25pm PT
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Juan,
Total tangent: how do guidebook copyrights work? I would have assumed that anyone can write a guidebook to an area as long as they independently collect the information, just like anyone (I assume) can publish a map. It seems like you are just reporting, rather than creating, information, no?
Full disclosure: I've only been down there once, when I climbed the Pan/Am back in the mid to late 90's. However, insofar as I have a horse in the race, I'm glad that no guidebook has been published for the area, and happy to have it retain some of its obscure and adventurous character.
Brian
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 30, 2009 - 12:19am PT
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Brian,
In México, as in the USA, the prose (text) can be copyrighted, as a literary creation, as well as the photos and graphic illustrations. In México, the route itself can be copyrighted as an "architectural" creation. I have done about 50% of the FA's down there, and obtained written consent to copyright many of the remainder.
 John S.
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Jackson, WY^
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Nov 30, 2009 - 08:35pm PT
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Watusi
I just found the topos you gave me twenty years ago. I can't wait to get back down there ( I'll leave the topos behind).
Scole
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Nov 30, 2009 - 09:07pm PT
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whats the time of year to climb here?
It would seem winter time is where its at, due to geographical location. Similar to Joshua Tree, ie fall/winter/spring, but winter can have its storms and its good days?
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Nov 30, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
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hoipolloi,
The best time of year is in spring when the days are long. March, April, and into May. Mid-September through October is next best. June through August can get hot. Winter is hit and miss. At 5,000' elev. the weather can get serious, and the wind funnels over the escarpment. It snowed there on Saturday!
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Scott Cole
Trad climber
Jackson, WY^
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Watusi
You can show up with dignity at any climbing area in the world! Remember doing Cosmos together when we first met?
Renting the old "fish Tank" with you and Bonger in the 80's was a great time. Lots of people came through that house.
I'll be living in San Diego starting in Dec. Look me up when you come through.
Scole
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C_man
Trad climber
Salt Lake, Utah
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Dec 11, 2009 - 05:08pm PT
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Hello,
Heading down to El Trono in a few days. Any idea of how I might find topos for routes on the South and East faces? Are there other routes in Canyon Tajo besides on the throne?
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middle joe
Trad climber
oc
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Dec 11, 2009 - 11:24pm PT
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EM Juan Maderita
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 11, 2009 - 11:52pm PT
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C_man
E-mail to ClimbBaja(at)aol(dot)com
Just got home from Tajo. Had to engage the 4WD in my E350 van. Time to hit the coin-op car wash with my muddy rig. More snow last Tuesday, but mostly melted now. I cleared a few downed trees off the road, and it is passable.
More storms are on in the forecast. You sure that you want to be climbing at 5,000' in December? Well, it is possible to get lucky and have some decent days...
-John S.
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C_man
Trad climber
Salt Lake, Utah
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Dec 12, 2009 - 03:30pm PT
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Thanks very much. I'll send you an e-mail. Hope that its not too crazy to climb there in December. Figured that S. face routes might be warm- what do you think?
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