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zBrown
Ice climber
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Mar 13, 2018 - 08:20pm PT
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Wwpagb-_Zk0
Anyway, just call me angel in the morning baby.
“Wretches! ye loved her for her wealth and hated her for her pride,
“And when she fell in feeble health, ye blessed her--that she died!
“How shall the ritual, then, be read?--the requiem how be sung
“By you--by yours, the evil eye,--by yours, the slanderous tongue
“That did to death the innocent that died, and died so young?”
Peccavimus; but rave not thus! and let a Sabbath song
Go up to God so solemnly the dead may feel so wrong!
The sweet Lenore hath “gone before," with Hope, that flew beside
Leaving thee wild for the dear child that should have been thy bride--
For her, the fair and debonair, that now so lowly lies,
The life upon her yellow hair but not within her eyes--
The life still there, upon her hair--the death upon her eyes.
“Avaunt! to-night my heart is light. No dirge will I upraise,
“But waft the angel on her flight with a Pæan of old days!
“Let no bell toll!--lest her sweet soul, amid its hallowed mirth,
“Should catch the note, as it doth float up from the damnéd Earth.
“To friends above, from fiends below, the indignant ghost is riven--
“From Hell unto a high estate far up within the Heaven--
“From grief and groan, to a golden throne, beside the King of Heaven.”
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 13, 2018 - 08:28pm PT
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I'm pretty bad with accuracy where recollections of second and third hand reportage goes ... Who isn't?
But, somewhere, from someone, I heard a vignette about Bonnie Raitt and her bass player, hanging out in a bar, pretty well smashed, having an argument about God knows what and she said to him, and I have to provide a big disclaimer here because it's paraphrased ... but just too damn good to pass up ...
Bonnie said to her bass player:
If you don't knock that sh#t off, next time you're giving me head I'm going to piss all over you!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 13, 2018 - 08:36pm PT
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that's an old list...
...and I suspect that warbler would demand that we'd have to list all the gal routes put up with the FA team wearing tubesocks and short-shorts next.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 13, 2018 - 08:48pm PT
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not updated for recent routes
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 13, 2018 - 08:50pm PT
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of course you would
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 13, 2018 - 08:55pm PT
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So much good music on this thread!
Ed, after your initial run of the usual suspects, you threw up a bunch of girl bands I'd never heard of. Still going through all of it. Very cool.
I came late to the party: nobody tells me anything.
If hardly visible hadn't e-mailed me about it, I never even would've clicked on it!
And after review, in something like the fourth post, if mouse hadn't linked Alice de Buhr's brief YouTube plaintiff, you & Kev likely would've missed out on a lot of sparring!
............
BTW: could you please put up a more current list of the FAs involving women?
I've archived lots of your work and would love to have an updated version.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 13, 2018 - 09:05pm PT
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of course you'd propose some sort of criteria that could not be measured, and something only you could judge
that is one of the ways such bias is maintained, warbler, well known and well studied
...
what you "think" is true is unproven, now it's your turn, show us your data
what you "suspect" is also unsupported, show us the data
and once again, you are describing your "experience," and you use the adjective "huge" (of course)...
but perhaps your experience isn't where it's at. works for you I know, so what?
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2018 - 09:12pm PT
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How bout, "Women have made fewer scientific discoveries than men because they arent as inherently scientific".
Hysterical bias?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 13, 2018 - 09:20pm PT
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Ursula Marvin, Geologist of the Extraterrestrial, Dies at 96
'But she did not became interested in geology until she was a student at Tufts University, where she majored in history but was required to study science for two years. Biology bored her; geology transformed her.
“Here was a professor talking about mountains, how they form and change, about rivers, lakes, deserts, beaches, dunes and how the earth itself formed and evolved,” she said in the lecture. “I never knew there was such a science.”
Inspired, she asked her geology professor if she could change her major.
He rebuffed her, telling her that she should be learning to cook.'
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2018 - 09:27pm PT
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Just a joke.
FA's seem like a poor metric. Historical bias, and a finite set. Women were treated differently in the past. Apparently now, not always much better.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 13, 2018 - 09:43pm PT
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There are ample stories of injustices to men by women also Ed...
They tend to be more in the personal relationship realm
Both sexes have their biases
but you are saying that the it isn't a bias, warbler, you're saying it's Testosterone that makes men better. That's an overly simplistic view.
Playing the victim card here? don't think it will trump anything...
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2018 - 09:47pm PT
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Warbler, I understand.
My point was that FA history may be biased by social norms, perhaps like discoveries in science. Also, FA's are limited, and maybe harder to come by over time, especially the 20-30 pitch kind.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Mar 13, 2018 - 09:54pm PT
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Be careful out there all you testers
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2018 - 09:55pm PT
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Whut? If only I had a time machine, a cordless hammer drill, some lycra, and a grigri. I could have probably squeezed some lines in on swan slab in the 80's Just saying.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2018 - 10:09pm PT
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No worries Warbler, again I think we just disagree. With a data set, you may be able to draw conclusions, some even statistacilly significant. Still, data can be biased, and conclusions may only apply to the information at hand. Dudes do have more FAs than women.
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 13, 2018 - 10:19pm PT
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That is so cool to hear folks talkin about Fanny! Growing up in Davis Ca, I had the pleasure of knowing soundguy Dave Millington. His sisters June and Jean Millington were the core of the group Fanny. Jean was at one point Married to Earl Slick, David Bowie's guitar player. Their son Lee Madaloni is a very good rock climber and musician from Rocknasium's old days. I hired his first band to play their first gig at our tenth anniversary party. The party also featured "gladiators " on the portable wall. I started gladiators in 1999. Basically two climbers attach to the auto belays. Then they race to the top anything goes....we had some rules like no hanging all body weight from someones extremity in a way that would cause dislocation and no interfering with the opponant's safety gear. Otherwise anything goes. I once climbed the entire sixty feet of pipeworks wall with a routsetter on my back trying to rip me off the wall. Lee Madaloni remains one of the coolest musicians I know. He accompanied his mother Jean and Aunt June in a band called June and Jean Millington's Slammin Babes. I brought them to our 2001 Tamarack Mountain Music Festival. They brought their whole tour with them including Tret Fure, Di Patterson, Joan Armatrading and other women's music hits. We had Jules Graves and Nataly McMaster at that show as well. Quite a tour de force of outstanding women artists. June and Jean championed the show with their incredible confidence and badass slammin funky lady style. As their lyrics state, you my have heard of LA. But they are from Oakland (Oaktown). I found them to be very laid back persomally and super kind and friendly. When I was at Jean's house in Davis, I noticed a picture of Lee as an infant. He was sitting on John Lennons lap. I guess the Babes of Fanny got to know the Beatles pretty well through The Ed Sullivan Show in which both groups were featured. God bless the Millingtons and Madalonis!
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