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dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
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Lol.
The "sport weenies" are pretty inspiring to me - I met a father/daughter duo at the Needles a month or so ago flying up Atlantis/Ice Pirates. The daughter was 15 but they said she did Astroman when she was 12, a climb of a lifetime for me... These kids will onsite the hardest climb you old hard men ever did and that's the way it should be. I think it's awesome to have such a talented climber like Adam Ondra putting in some time in the Valley, and hope the next generation like Alex Megos and Ashima do the same. What's not to like? Free climbing should take priority and they are not power drilling new bolt ladders like Wootywoot.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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No one would be able to argue much about a 5.15+ pitch at 20 grand.
Yes they would :)
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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No one would be able to argue
Read: 'could' for 'would be able to'
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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One might think that a climb freed by a woman in the mid nineties would be onsighted no problem by modern sport climbers the top of their game.
Not so.
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chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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ST ball-cuppers defending his honor
Ha! I'm now an official ST ball-cupper! As a kid in Texas, being called this would have bothered me. Luckily for me alternative lifestyles are more accepted now.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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It's more meaningful for me to draw inspiration from people trying groundbreaking things - like Ondra on the Dawn Wall - then dissing him for ethical infractions, real or imagined. He's humbly living up to a standard few if any can match, and if you look at people who are sore over his effort you'll see they probably are sore about many things. Or worse, they are crusaders for what is "right." Seems like an impoverished way to live.
Go Adam.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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It's more meaningful for me to draw inspiration from people trying groundbreaking things - like Ondra on the Dawn Wall - then dissing him for ethical infractions, real or imagined.
It's fun to imagine this line of thought from Valley Hard Men when Skinner and Piana did the Salathe
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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^^^and .....you?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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This guy is really strong! I was watching him working on some of the pitches.
Here we discuss the best hangs on Wino Tower.
When I asked Adam how his ascent of the Nose went, he said "I almost free climbed the Great Roof, but fell off only TWO moves from the Glory Jug!"
He said he did not attempt to free climb the Changing Corners pitch as he was running short of time, but my understanding is he free climbed everything else.
P.S. Adam would like to thank the ravens, packrats, lizards, swifts, bats and Big Wall Frogs for preplacing his gear for him, especially all of those bomber fixed heads he was using for pro.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Ondra says...
Overcast day yesterday, so I got to work on the pitches a lot! Pitches 7 - 12 (the hardest pitches of the lower part) feel pretty wired, most of them got sent or toproped, or at least the crux sequences linked.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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from
https://www.facebook.com/mytendon/?fref=ts
Update from Adam: "We had two busy day on the wall, but extremely important motivating ones! At first, I tried the pitch 14, where I still had no idea about what to do in the last boulder problem. After a little session, I could finally do the moves and soon after I gave it a go, but I realized that my beta for the intro moves on the last boulderproblem did not work. It took me a lot of time, skin, frustration and swearing to finally find a satisfying sequence, but I was exhausted and my skin thrashed. I still gave it a another that night, slipped on the first boulderproblem but then continued to the anchor. Which gave me a lot of confidence that next time it should work out.
Second day, I was incredibly lucky to get overcast day, so I could make a lot of work. At first, we took some pics with Heinz Zak in pitch 14 (5.14d), then went down and sent pitch 8 (5.13d) and toproped pith 7 (5.14a). After lunch, I went for pitch 11 (5.13c) and linked the whole crux sequence, then linked the whole crux in pitch 12 (5.14b). Then we went down for toprope session on pitch 10 (5.14a) which is always desperately wet in the dark, but I still made it with one hang in toprope. To finish the day, I just re-ckecked the moves on pitch 9 (5.13c).
It seems like I need yet to work a bit more on pitches 10, 12 and 13 (5.13b) and then pitches 1-6 (only 5.12b to 5.13c range) and I would be ready to go for the push. Can't wait!!!"
TENDON athlete Adam Ondra
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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is he trying to look like Gumby?
Euros have them some strange tastes
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Matt's
climber
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Thanks for the updates. It's been fun to hear about ondra's effort.
It's still unclear to me how close he is to actually sending this climb-- sometimes "one hang on toprope" means you're really close to redpointing, sometimes it means that it's an eternity away...
It is similarly ambiguous to me how close he is to redpointing the nose-- he fell all 3 times on the crux of the great roof, and didn't attempt the changing corners ptich...
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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I've been checking Adam's posts on Instagram (via Black Diamond) and it's so impressive to see how this guy is just plowing through this stuff. Really inspiring. I'll be channeling my inner Adam this weekend at Bishop in the hopes that my 12 yr. daughter won't out climb me.
Euros have them some strange tastes I had a Brit friend saying in Camp 4 one summer and he (along with Phil Bard I think) climbed the NWFHD in a day. He wore a pair of red polyprop tights and a red polyprop shirt that was too tight in the sleeves so he made a number of cuts into the cuffs so that it looked like fringes. All he needed was a red nose.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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is he trying to look like Gumby?
Euros have them some strange tastes
Patrick compton really?
which in Czech would be:
"Patrick compton fakt jo?"
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Green means go, GO CLIMB A ROCK!
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Adam would like to thank the ravens, packrats, lizards, swifts, bats and Big Wall Frogs for preplacing his gear for him, especially all of those bomber fixed heads he was using for pro.
If only they'd been properly equipped for an ascent in better style.
Mikey has the right idea
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