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Lee Bow
Trad climber
wet island
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You know, I've never figured out why run out slabs hit such a nerve with some peolple. By any fair standard,I'm a big coward. But I LOVE run out slabs. It's my big chance to delude myself into thinking I'm actually a real climber. So long as you don't start cart-wheeling or do the wrist slide (road rash!) the falls are actually slow motion comedy!
I've actually had CONVERSATIONS while falling. 120ft is my current record.
Not bad for a guy that cries at the thought of falling 5ft vertical.
Some of the best runouts have been butchered by rebolting or neighboring routes essentially erasing the orriginal line. Never ONCE have I accidentally stumbled onto a run out. They are not bears attacking your tent cuz you spilled stew all over your sleeping bag. If you don't WANT to climb run out slab DON'T. All the comments about ego, waste of rock or greed make me ill. How would it be if I put a chicken bolt ever five feet on the Salathe. The same logic aplies, but even more so. There are well protected slab route. I'm not aware of one wall route for wimp cowards like myself.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
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"Why stop an' drill if you ain't gonna fall?"
Genius .
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bluering
Trad climber
CA
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I LOVE slab climbing....
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Tattooed 1
Trad climber
Sebastopol, Ca
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Beacons from Mars, oh ya baby!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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'"Why stop an' drill if you ain't gonna fall?"
Genius .'
Actually, shouldn't it also be, "Why stop an' drill if it'll make you fall?"
I think that that was, and still is, more often the case...
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RattyJ
Trad climber
Pine Grove
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Aug 10, 2010 - 03:57am PT
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Slab climbing is one of my favorite forms of climbing. It's where the crowds aren't.
Hey Ron, not everyone is into the sport bolted stuff these days. Don't believe me, ask salmanizer for the topos to eagle rock and bear river res. He along with some other tahoe regulars have been putting up some things that make Set the Controls look like an easy day of cragging.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 10, 2010 - 08:15pm PT
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Sup Rob, you back state side yet? Ran into your girlfriend a while back, she said you dumped her so you could spend the winter climbing in Mexico??
I thought it was funny... she didn't.
Anyway, I wouldn't call anything I've done a step up from Set the Controls. At the same standard maybe. You place bolts only where you need one and happen to be able to actually get one in at the same time. If you can't find a stance you either suck it up and go for it, or back off and sucker someone else into giving it a go.
I don't and I know Paul didn't set out to create dangerous runout routes. It's just the way it goes down from time to time is all. Ya know, "Climbing".
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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bumps are all i got to work with at the moment
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Sometimes run-outs were dictated by lack of stances, other times by the prevailing "ethos" of placing bolts only where "really necessary."
Certainly there were people in our "B-List" group that harangued each other to push on higher before drilling (which had the added benefit of saving time and effort).
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Climbing Bump
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stormeh
climber
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Dec 11, 2013 - 12:19am PT
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Bump. For science.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Dec 11, 2013 - 01:11am PT
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120ft is my current record.
Lee Bow, holy sheep dip. 120 on slab is a long way to go. story?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Dec 11, 2013 - 02:54am PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Dec 11, 2013 - 09:52am PT
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On any given day the 98...2 rule is apparent in the Valley. 98% of the climbers are on 2% of the routes...lthe climbs Roger describes are not among them.
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Climber Joe
Trad climber
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Dec 11, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
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Crest Jewel kicked our butts earlier this year. Had to bail around pitch 6 or so, when I started getting cramps in my triceps (betrays my inexperience) and my partner refused to take over lead. Turns out the often side-ways retreat rap was more dangerous than continuing. Then we had the NDG to deal with.
The upper slab routes at Big Rock Lake Perris are great for my balance. But then they are not run-out at all.
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doughnutnational
Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
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Dec 11, 2013 - 09:30pm PT
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If you think Crest Jewel is runout you probably want to stay away from the arches apron.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Dec 11, 2013 - 09:32pm PT
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^^^^
Yeah, no shit! That thing's practically an aid ladder.
I thought it was like any typical slab route and only brought 8 draws for the occasion. Ended up skipping like half the bolts and still hardly noticed.
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Climber Joe
Trad climber
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Dec 11, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
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Good to know. My suspicions are confirmed.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Dec 12, 2013 - 12:04am PT
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And how the hell does Big Rock get mentioned in such a fine example of a ST thread? Big Rock? Really?
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Dec 12, 2013 - 02:09am PT
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Turns out the often side-ways retreat rap was more dangerous than continuing. Then we had the NDG to deal with.
Yosemite handing your ass to you is nothing new. Glad you lived to tell.
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