Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
|
|
Yo Kevin.... if you have some snapshots that you want to share all quick style.. just take a picture of them with your digi camera. I took this one of a polaroid on my wall. Not too bad on the quality and fast.
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2009 - 12:46pm PT
|
Something I was searching for led me back to this old thread. Great stories and pictures (such as the one of Russ above)ranging all over the place.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Apr 13, 2009 - 07:15pm PT
|
Back into the Middle of the action! This is the first thread that really lit my fuse about the historical potential of the ST campfire!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jun 27, 2009 - 02:35am PT
|
Still burning...bump!
|
|
Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
Kevin Worrall and Middle Cathedral bump . . . excellent Valley history lessons. Get yer steep slab on!
|
|
Les
Trad climber
Bahston
|
|
wow, I'm so not worthy, but man it's been a real treat to read this thread from start to finish. You guys must have had custom-made pants to fit yer ballz in 'em!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Big fun on small holds...It just don't get mo betta!
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2010 - 02:46pm PT
|
In May, when Rik Rieder and I returned to the Valley for the Sacherer remembrance, our first stop was the base of the NE face of Middle Cathedral Rock. Throwing caution to the wind, we kicked steps to the top of the snow cone at the base of the “Central Pillar of Frenzy” and chatted with the climbers waiting to climb.
Then we walked along the base to the DNB where I discovered that I can no longer look up and walk without falling on my face—no pictures were allowed of my inglorious, blood-drawing sprawl. However, the view from my supine position wasn't so bad.
Rik re-enacted the opening moments of the 70s climbing on Middle when he soloed up the first bit of “Paradise Lost,” the route that started it all for our generation of Middle climbers.
It felt great to be back in the Valley and touching Middle rock. It still looked so inviting and deceptively low angle and highly featured.
I understand that all of the routes on Middle, except maybe the Sacherer-Fredericks, have had all bolts replaced. "Paradise Lost" is a good introduction.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Rik- How did you manage to talk Ray into getting up on PL?
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2010 - 02:01pm PT
|
Steve, I don't mean to speak for Rik, but Ray always said, "I got us into trouble, Rik got us out."
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
> I understand that all of the routes on Middle, except maybe the Sacherer-Fredericks, have had all bolts replaced.
Getting close, but not quite - it's a big rock!
The (2 belay) bolts on Sacherer-Fredericks were replaced by Erik Strom in 2003:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/rep/036ysacf.txt
Still to be replaced (as I understand it):
 a couple of rusty 3/8" belay bolts on Space Babble
Tour de Force (taper bolts; should be pretty good)
Central Pillar of Frenzy extension, belay bolts at top of p8
Pieces of Eight, top of p6 and maybe p5
Paradise Lost, all replaced by Roger in May, except a couple he missed up high (on p7?)
Ho Chi Minh Trail, one on p1 var start, one on p10
North Buttress, p15 (probably still original), the p11 bolt was added in the 80s/90s
Mother Earth, p11 bolt ladder, anchor bolts on p12 and p16.
Smith-Crawford, p7-12
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Any idea who put up that pointless bolted start to the first forty feet of the Powell-Reed?
How many bolts on the direct start to the Central Pillar at present? I saw at least one recently.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
2406. Pulsing Pustules FA: Brian Bennett, Norman Boles, 7/1991
Cool idea on the direct start to Stoner's. I bet Chad would be psyched to establish that on lead.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Dec 26, 2010 - 01:21pm PT
|
The unfortunate pitch in question is a sideways bolt ladder that reaches a point about forty feet up the first pitch of the Powell-Reed.
I like the original start to Stoners. Don't give these folks any ideas or you will get a half dozen half pitch variations to muck everything up.
People are willing to put in some pretty foolish routes these days, take a look next time you are up there.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Dec 26, 2010 - 04:06pm PT
|
So, has anyone lead the CPOF direct start with the two new bolts?
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Dec 26, 2010 - 04:08pm PT
|
I haven't led it, but I rappelled it a few years ago. :)
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Dec 26, 2010 - 05:34pm PT
|
New only in the sense that they weren't there when I did the direct start. I didn't see the second bolt last time I walked up there but the first was easy to spot.
|
|
Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
|
|
|
Dec 22, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
|
skating on stilts
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!