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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 21, 2014 - 03:35pm PT
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E stylin' the Chisolm Trail, early 80's:
Doug Munoz photo
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Aug 21, 2014 - 04:16pm PT
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Maybe a little better?
TY
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Aug 23, 2014 - 03:26pm PT
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What's the story behind the bad photo? Who's in there?
Someone is wearing a very stylish hat.
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
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Aug 25, 2014 - 08:30am PT
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e that's the other e ...............mostly in the photo.......... you all know AS Stonedmasters
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BillO
Trad climber
Yachats, OR
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Aug 31, 2014 - 05:05pm PT
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MisterE and Skip on Serpentine a couple years ago.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Sep 15, 2014 - 11:48am PT
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Just to clarify a post from Largo. I did the FFA (belayed by Chris Robbins) of the Woodpecker Crack on trad gear in the late 70's and renamed the route Tar and Feathers (Randy).
I also don't quite recall a naked ascent of the Sunshine face, but wouldn't discount that it happened.
Spencer
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Friend
climber
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Sep 30, 2014 - 02:17pm PT
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I know there’s more vintage tales and photos floating around out there.
I’ve also heard rumors of some of the ultra-desperates being dusted off, in the last couple years.
Let's see some more granite inspiration. New, old or anywhere in between...
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Nov 17, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
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I finally was able to lead Burning Down The House on Saturday. What an incredible slab, thank you Darrell!
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Nov 17, 2014 - 09:42pm PT
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Dave your memory is getting a little rusty.
I was actually belaying Acapulco Bill during his infamous plunge down the Guillotine. Randy showed up just in time to help me "belay" by yarding loads of road while Bill plummeted over 100 feet, landing upside down, inches from a large block.
Incidentally, Bill grabbed at least three pieces of gear before his fall, failing to clip into any of them. Randy and I were aghast.
And yes, Acapulco Bill screamed twice.
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slayton
Trad climber
Here and There
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Nov 17, 2014 - 11:23pm PT
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I'm a gumby, a numby, a fart from the start. I have no claims and no pictures. I've been away from this climbing game for quite some time since moving to SE Alaska and away from southern California where Joshua Tree was my back yard and Idylwild was literally up and over the mountain from my Palm Springs home. I feel young but it seems that those years b's etween here and then are cropping up.
Suicide. .. . .I've been there more times than I remember. I forget climbing dates. I forget climbs. I forget all kinds of sh#t. I do remember climbing Serpentine and getting all kinds of scared and then proud that I finished it. I remember soloing something easy 5.5ish with a friend and saying "no f*#king way" when the exposure became too much and the move maybe just too much with that spice of exposure and plugging gear in to see me through. I remember a stupid 5.7 off-width that left me gagging, mad, and spewing obscenities to my partners delight.
I remember a bet between a couple of friends about climbin "flower of high rank" and going up to lead it myself. I remember that climb and so many of it's particulars, the opening moves and nut placements, the tree with old webbing, the horizontal crack before the top out that nearly did me in, me gasping and yelling self deprecating BS as others stood and watched from formations a bit away. But I remember making it up that thing and I remember loving it.
I've since moved away. Climbing has taken a back seat to other things, sometimes more, sometimes less passionate. My memories, though, of Suicide, Tahquitz, Joshua Tree, they will live with me forever. And. .. .I do get back sometimes. Not as often as I would like but enough to let me know.
Thanks all for sharing. It's nice to see home and those who pioneered it.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Nov 18, 2014 - 12:34am PT
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Now I feel old. Burning Down the House was done in '87, wow. Twenty seven years ago. Ran up a bit of flier mileage on that one trying to GU boulder it out on two bolts before finally adding the third. Good times on a great route.
What impeccable stone, could well be the best of the best at either rock.
Good job Johnny.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Nov 18, 2014 - 12:51am PT
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Just to clarify a post from Largo. I did the FFA (belayed by Chris Robbins) of the Woodpecker Crack on trad gear in the late 70's and renamed the route Tar and Feathers (Randy).
Spencer, dude.. I don't get it, why would you want to tar and feather Randy? He's a good guy. Haha, sorry, couldn't resist. Seriously though, are you trying to somehow attribute the name change to Randy? What does Randy have to do with all this? We all know Randy has always been a trouble maker, is it somehow related to that? Please clarify.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Nov 18, 2014 - 07:52am PT
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Well done, John (and Henny in 1987)!
Somebody has to have some photos.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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Nov 18, 2014 - 08:44am PT
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I recognize a lot of these routes. But it's been since 1990 latest that I climbed there. Sure do miss it, thanks for the stories and photos.
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Nov 18, 2014 - 10:36am PT
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to further clarify Daryl....the reason I placed the term "Randy" in the thread is that he (RV) is the keeper of the archives and documents the semi-recent (and somewhat silly) human history of who did what, when and how
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MP
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Nov 18, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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Thanks for the Guillotine story. That route is notorious for long falls. I was up at Suicide in the mid 80's, Largo was there guiding some Hollywood models, when someone grounded while leading. Horrible sound, he was pretty banged up. We carried him down in a Stokes litter, but never heard how he made out.
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Nov 18, 2014 - 12:47pm PT
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The start of Burning Down the House is just left of the huge flake. 50 feet of unprotected climbing takes you to the fist bolt that is 15 feet left of the top of the flake. Move left and up into the main black streak for 15 feet to the second bolt at a decent hand hold, clip and mantle. This is the only good hold from the 1st bolt to about 15 feet above the third. Clip the third bolt and I step right and start climbing on the right side of the streak. Many moves of braille climbing on nothing leads to a small right hand hold that you need to get your right foot on. Falling here would be very big. A couple of easy moves right leads to better holds and an easy stroll to the top.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Nov 18, 2014 - 01:10pm PT
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This is the only good hold from the 1st bolt to about 15 feet above the third.
KP used to say that if you took all the holds from the 1st bolt to the easy moves at the end and stacked them on edge the total width would be no more than a quarter. Not far from the truth.
What a pretty slab - if one is into that kind of stuff. Even more appealing if you know just how bullet hard and clean that rock is.
Cheap Day Return is pretty good as well.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Nov 18, 2014 - 01:13pm PT
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I saw this thread and I couldn't help but wonder if this day was posted:
It was indeed around 1974, I had just moved to San Diego after a 5 year hiatus from Tahquitz spent in the PNW. All the Sierra Clubbers were long gone and it seemed everybody's attention was now over at Suicide.
I remember thinking then just how much things had changed. Little did I appreciate just how much more change would take place!!! Thanks Robs for the trip down memory lane. I met you on several occasions back then and always remember you as a kind and inclusive person, the image of you in that white robe is what I immediately flashed to when I met you again at the JB memorial, talk about change!!! LOL.
Cheers,
Charlie D.
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Dimes
Social climber
Wonderland of Retirement
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Nov 25, 2014 - 09:03pm PT
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