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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Feb 18, 2017 - 09:29pm PT
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malachi
climber
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Feb 22, 2017 - 11:43am PT
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I vote for The Meltdown on Pywiak. I still get the shakes thinking about it.
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malachi
climber
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Feb 22, 2017 - 11:47am PT
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Oh... and on the East Coast I nominate Repo Man (Cathedral) and Dol Guldur (Connecticut). The former is for f*#king real.
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Teo
Social climber
CA
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Feb 22, 2017 - 12:50pm PT
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Hollow flake (Salathe, 5.9) anyone? No pitch has ever crushed me so thoroughly as my first time through, leaving I think 8 fingers bleeding from under my fingernails, had to take a rest day on el cap spire...
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Feb 22, 2017 - 01:37pm PT
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If you're referring to my post, that's not Ron.
D'Oh!
Had I looked for another few secs, I woulda/shoulda known. While I never met RonC, I do know he's blonde...
So who is that, looking so casual?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Feb 22, 2017 - 02:55pm PT
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Our very own KSolem. Probably me belaying and Guyzo or Laeger taking photos.
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CAC
Gym climber
Clairemont
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Feb 22, 2017 - 03:51pm PT
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Those Crack 'n Ups were pretty good in the right places. For the longest time there was one fixed on P1 of Peg Leg/Ankles Away at the CA Needles. Then one time I went over to run that rig and it was gone. Changed things up a little bit.
I observed it disappear... Maybe 10 years ago Dave Sorric led the route and of course clipped the 'Up, which was placed pretty low on the route. If it holds, it keeps you off the deck.
His follower unclipped the draw and the 'Up just fell out of the crack... With no way to reset it, the piece became a souvenir from a bygone era...
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Feb 22, 2017 - 07:26pm PT
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EdBannister
Mountain climber
13,000 feet
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Feb 22, 2017 - 07:44pm PT
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Welcome to Dome Rock
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 22, 2017 - 08:50pm PT
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FOOPS 5.11
I wanted to switch that shot before someone with real photographic chops chimed in
Oh well. . .m. Fixed it though.
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Feb 22, 2017 - 08:57pm PT
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Dan, thanks for posting that shot of Chingando. This is a perfect example of a climb that feels harder than it's rating, only because OW feels so insecure, even when you are doing it properly. Most offwidths feel like testpieces. When I led it, I was onsighting 5.11 cracks all over the Valley, but I thought I was going to die!
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Feb 22, 2017 - 09:24pm PT
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Urmas! funny. thats how i felt on it last year. true wrestlin' match.
good as it gets bud!!!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Feb 23, 2017 - 05:17pm PT
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I flamed on She's the Bosch at the city. The holds were big but it was steep and sustained. Bicep beach for sure.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Feb 23, 2017 - 09:53pm PT
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I tried Chingando a couple of times in the 70's , and got a terrible beat-down both times. I never did get up the thing. There came a time in the 80's when I could hold my own on Off-Width, but I never did go back to Chingando. My relationship with that climb is sort of like an abusive domestic relationship where I was the one getting thumped. Once I broke free, I went into hiding, never to return! I was so scared of Chingando I wore a disguise every time I went to Reed's. I wore a dress and a wig and used make-up when I went to do Goldrush.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Feb 24, 2017 - 06:13am PT
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The only things I remember about Chingando is that it was led out at the end and there is a section that has weird nubbins on the outside. Seems like I did offer some blood to the god Chingando.
Cool pic above. Does seem tilted a bit.
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Jkruse
Trad climber
Las Cruces, NM
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Feb 24, 2017 - 09:22am PT
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Not all that hard, but it has a reputation around here and is a sandbag for the grade. Great exposure, beautiful rock, and guaranteed 30-40ft cheese grater falls if you blow it. Pitch 2 on Tooth Or Consequences in the Organ Mountains.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Feb 17, 2018 - 10:05am PT
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Bump for climbing content.
^^^BVB quote from above. Classsic!
My relationship with that climb is sort of like an abusive domestic relationship where I was the one getting thumped. Once I broke free, I went into hiding, never to return! I was so scared of Chingando I wore a disguise every time I went to Reed's. I wore a dress and a wig and used make-up when I went to do Goldrush.
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mynameismud
climber
backseat
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Feb 17, 2018 - 10:35am PT
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The Affliction, Higher Cathedral Rock
Mother Earth, Middle Cathedral Rock
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Feb 17, 2018 - 10:36am PT
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On the front range...many climbs at Vedauwoo. Do an 11 there and you are psyched. Many in Eldo. Center Route, Climb of the Century, 2nd Pitch Pony Express. D7 on the Diamond and Yellow Wall. Diagonal Direct. The list goes on....Interesting topic. All that I've been thinking are well protected but require a skill set that requires lots of experience in many techniques all wrapped up in 80-100ft pitches.... or just some crazy gift in athleticism.
S...
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Mike Honcho
Trad climber
Glenwood Springs, CO
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Feb 17, 2018 - 11:22am PT
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Orange Blossom Special, 5.9 and terrifying. Stone Mountain, NC
Magnolia Thunderpussy, 5.9 Granite Mountain, AZ (it seemed really freakin' hard)
Horns Mother, 5.11 Veadawoo, WY
Pretty sure "The Harding Slot" on Astroman is 12b as well
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