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Backclip
Trad climber
utah
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Feb 12, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
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The angle says 5.3 but the loose dirt screams 5.9R. Literally EVERYTHING you touch on that pitch will be on the ground soon enough. We still give him a hard time about this route. When he talked me into going up there we topped out in the dark and could hear all this buzzing by our asses (we were sitting down). Turned out to be a den of baby rattlesnakes...good times!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Feb 12, 2013 - 05:07pm PT
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Backclip, that looks like a pile of mud! you may need a weed whacker also.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
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LOL
Horrifying!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Feb 12, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
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Hey Backclip, You should come check this place out!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 12, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
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Backclip..... you win.
So I was driving back to LA from Phoenix Monday.
Any info on the stuff south of the 10 about 25 miles shy of Quartzsite?
Kofa Nat wildlife refuge....
Looks like some Big Choss Walls and Spires.
MR E ?????
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MisterE
Social climber
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Feb 12, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
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I got nothin...
BUT CHOSS!!!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 12:58am PT
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This was the closest to choss we got last weekend. Mud in the horizontal crack. QUE HORRIBLE!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Feb 13, 2013 - 01:25am PT
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Yikes there Backclip.. I wouldn't categorize that as a "pitch".. I think choss of that caliber needs a whole new term.. I'll think on it.
You've raised the bar. Now that the gauntlet has been thrown down.. I'm forced me to dig up my Willard Island pics for my next thread bump.
We had a typical chosstastic weekend at Echo Cliffs. Climbed a few routes we hadn't done before. The best thing about Echo... even though these quality routes (for some strange reason) were completely devoid of chalk , you could easily tell which holds to use by looking for the glue. Thanks Louis!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Feb 13, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
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Behold, Willard Island. So chossy the vertical faces are literally unclimbable. You'd be dead in minutes under a pile of jagged rubble.. that is if the primordial choss-monsters roaming the scree field don't get you first.
1000 foot elevation gain off the Sea of Cortez. You walk the spine and pray the entire time it doesn't disintegrate beneath your feet.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 13, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
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Don't we get bonus points for climbing choss?
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Backclip
Trad climber
utah
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Feb 14, 2013 - 04:17pm PT
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Sweet! I win! What do I get? hahaha...seriously though, some of the pix posted as choss look like dreamy stone.
I stared to bolt a line at Echo above what we dubbed "the Fire Swamp". Got 4 bolts in (willy stick style) and called it after hitting shite stone/dirt. I don't know whats worse, the train going by or the Highway noise. Echo just plain sucks IMO.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 14, 2013 - 05:04pm PT
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Don't we get bonus points for climbing choss?
That all depends. It is a tricky grading system these guys came up with...
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Backclip
Trad climber
utah
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Feb 14, 2013 - 05:12pm PT
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Are those Geico sales reps?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 14, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
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They're Plaidman's rope guns.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
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Shiprock? THE Shiprock is climbable?
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 14, 2013 - 08:01pm PT
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That piece of crap called Ship Rock at Smith Rock has a few routes on it. I wouldn't waste my time on it though unless you have a death wish and don't care about the welfare of others. The main hiking trail is at the bottom of it and I am sure that if anything came off it would take out a hiker or two. That thing is beyond choss.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Feb 14, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
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OMG.. the ears on those guys in the picture LOL
@ Backclip.. that picture is Echo Cliffs in Malibu. No highway or noise pollution anywhere in sight.
@ Plaidman.. er.. yeah.. Shiprock.. I don't have a death wish and wanted to get home in my car.. not in a body bag, so we never actually did the "route". Just thought the guide description was hilarious.
Edit to add: Choss really does need it's own grading system.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Feb 14, 2013 - 09:26pm PT
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Do we grade on the hardest move on the pitch, or on the feeling you are going to pitch, and that the pro is crap and you have not a chance in hell of making it out alive?
Extra points for spiceyness and how bad it looks. Although I have had some say that's choss, and I respond. It's really not that bad.
Grading is all in your mind. And I don't mind choss in the right place.
I just got my TR of the St. Peter's Dome climb published in the new Mazama Annual.
Best choss I ever climbed.
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