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brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Apr 25, 2016 - 12:56pm PT
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When is Erik Sloan gonna chime in?
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Apr 25, 2016 - 01:01pm PT
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Please leave the the epics for those who are willing to relive the emotion of the FA, as intended.
when did the 'the emotion of the FA' come to own a piece of rock?
If my 'emotion' leads me to chip a line and place bolts every 3', is that ok too?
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Apr 25, 2016 - 01:59pm PT
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Patrick-Try to read the complete sentence. Since when, does chipping and bolting your way through a piece of rock constitute an "epic" as I was describing? Not some sh#t climb at your local crag that was put up in poor style.
The last pitch of White Punks is easy face climbing but only has 3 bolts. Go add a few bolts to that "piece of rock" and see what happens.
The fact that it's run-out, keeps you engaged, a little scared and honestly, I'm channeling the FA party when I'm on that section- they did that sh#t on lead, two bolts only, as darkness was falling. Yes, that evokes emotion.
There are guys out there, putting in the work, searching for great lines, placing every bolt with with careful consideration- Perhaps, once the route hits the guide book, you can go make things right.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 25, 2016 - 02:36pm PT
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Put up your own routes in the style you want.
Do not vandalise history in a way that suits your ego's need to look important!
There's a lot of rock out there.
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Lurkingtard
climber
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Apr 25, 2016 - 02:43pm PT
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It is interesting how much my opinion changed regarding this subject over the years and I wonder how different it will be in 10-20-30 years...
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Apr 25, 2016 - 02:58pm PT
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So, have we decided that the OP premise was a troll or what? Surely it wasn't a serious post right?
Are people actually advocating for retro-bolting or is this an April Fools Day thing come late, like the metal plaque thread a while back?
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slabbo
Trad climber
colo south
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Apr 25, 2016 - 03:17pm PT
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To be as simple as I can..no it's not OK...Every bit of rock has to be safe for YOU ??? No it doesn't
Go ahead and retro an f/a of mine..I dare you
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Apr 25, 2016 - 04:45pm PT
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Retro-bolt one of my routes and I'm comin' for yer knee caps, mutha f*#k . . .
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Apr 25, 2016 - 04:57pm PT
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^^^^That's the spirit....
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jstan
climber
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Apr 26, 2016 - 10:45am PT
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The OP referred to "logic". OK let's try to be logical.
According to legal practice in the US if a person's name is on the Grant Deed for that parcel and there is no conservation agreement, wildlife or zoning impact, they may do pretty much as they please. Legally the first person to bolt has no right to modify another person's property absent prior permission. The status of the second, or fiftieth, person who modifies the property is not different. Here we will not approach liability issues.
Now it is possible for groups of people to set up additional controls regulating appropriate uses given transfer of enforcement right by the parcel's legal owner. This necessarily requires agreements between members of the group. So a choice has to be made by all persons desiring to modify property.
1. Do you want your climbing to be focussed on extended efforts, beforehand, to achieve the needed agreements within the group.
2. Or would you value more a climbing where you get to look up at awesome completely natural challenges posing the question, "Can I get good enough to do that?"
3. Or shall I go ahead on the cheap and spend the next forty years in silly arguments.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 26, 2016 - 01:17pm PT
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PLEASE, ADD BOLTS TO ANY OF MY FAs, Anchors Too. If you're in the 'hood I'll help. I wish that I had placed bolts on every climb I opened, (@least300), I did leave gear , pins and nuts,& rainbow webbing.
Someone added a bolt to one in Jtree, - Thank you.
Cool hard rock guy , escopeta, said So, have we decided that the OP premise was a troll or what? Surely it wasn't a serious post right?
Are people actually advocating for retro-bolting or is this an April Fools Day thing come late, like the metal plaque thread a while back?
As to the OP? HE admits it.
He is a Hypocrite, Not That There Is Anything Wrong With THAT! ,
it helps him with his faith, also, sorry couldn't resist
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Apr 26, 2016 - 01:33pm PT
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when did the 'the emotion of the FA' come to own a piece of rock?
You aren't familiar with the bolt police?
Retro-bolt one of my routes and I'm comin' for yer knee caps, mutha f*#k . . .
So? No toproping? :)
If preventing wannabies from topropping was as easy as chopping a bolt, then the toprope police would have outlawed it. As it was, ridicule wasn't enough to stop the hoard of barbarians.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 26, 2016 - 07:14pm PT
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I'm sure it's troll, by a non liber, but people listen to this shit!
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