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Pat Kent
climber
Santa Cruz
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Warm wishes to a happy homecoming. What a summit top out that must've been.
Great job man!
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Scott McNamara
Social climber
Tucson, Arizona
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Well done, Mark. Good decisions all the way around. Thanks for the inspiration!
It is OK to back away,
and live to climb another day.
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m_jones
Trad climber
Carson City, NV
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An e mail from Mark.
Max,
I'm down and I'm safe. It took everything out of me and I went right to the end of my confidence and strength.
On my last day I got ready to climb the two 5.9 pitches. The very start of the first one certainly doesn't look like 5.9 so I aided up a bit till I felt comfortable. I took off free climbing but shortly, on a lieback, my hands simply opened and I pitched off backwards and eventually head first for 30 feet, past a two and a half foot wide ledge, slamming my back into the wall when I stopped. I sat there to 20 minutes and went back up and sketched my way to the anchor.
I rapped down and cleaned the pitch and got ready for the next one and over the next hour tried three different ways but never felt my strength or confidence were enough to help me if I should have to down climb after reaching a dead end. Finally, I rapped back down to my haul bags, knowing what I had to do. I cried and cried for an hour before calling Cheyne Lempe and asking that he hike to the top and throw me a rope.
I cried more that night and also when I saw Cheyne's rope snake over to top towards me.
After reading all of your comments of concern and encouragement I cried all over again.
I clean and showered now and am awaiting our reservations to be called at the Mountain Room, where, of course, I am treating, Cheyne, Alec (don't know his last name) and John Fine for rescuing me.
Thanks again,
Mark
I talked to Mark a bit ago. He added that the last bit of the pitch that stopped him was mossy and wet into the anchors. Seemed pretty thankful he did not badass himself to that spot as it would have put him 130' above the anchors, sans pro. And he could not have down climbed it.
Yeah, I'd say seriously good decision making here.
I'm sure the TR will be a good read.
Glad you are down safe Mark. Nicely done!
Max
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Reggaemylitis
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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A 30 foot upside down whipper at the top of El Cap and getting back up and finishing the pitch would be my definition of badass. Glad you got off safe man!
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labrat
Trad climber
Nevada City, CA
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Good decision! Great job! Glad you are down. Some R & R is in order...
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cmcc
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Way to go putting everyone you had into it... and staying safe shows what a great person, dad and climber you are.
See yo in the Hood!
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The Larry
climber
Moab, UT
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Glad Mark is down and eating steak. I believe Brad Jarrett put in the Iron/son pitch to avoid having to solo those last pitches.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Mark,
It was a pleasure to help hike a load for ya and get to meet you and Max in person. Your ascent was bold and inspiring. You showed me what I can do when I get to the age where others think the fun is over. You cruised that wall in style and good ethics...leaving it in better shape that those before you.
While you didn't finish as planned, you have showed all those that watched what it means to be humble. I can only imagine the courage it took to make that phone call for help. You have taught us all a valuable lesson in self preservation. Who knows...maybe someday your display of humility will encourage someone to make an appropriate decision and save their life. Your dedication to the climbing community is honorable.
Thanks for being such a cool dude and very helpful with big wall advice. You have my utmost respect Mark! Hope you have a safe trip home and look forward to your trip report!
-Paul
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Mark, I'm glad you are down and unwinding. The weather you got delivered was not helpful. The last time you bailed on a route was probably the Standard Route on Cathedral Ledge with me in 1974 in winter. I'm winning in the more bails category by orders of magnitude!
Keep the adventuring fun.
Todd
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Mark, very proud of you. A mature bad ass man.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Mark-young and old, we all need a role model.
thank you
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ElCapPirate
Big Wall climber
California
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Nice show bro!
Congrats on getting down and having an adventure of a lifetime. Those upper pitches can be pretty brutal/scary, especially in wet conditions.
I hope I'm still alive and charging as hard as you in the future.
Cheers!
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Smart move Mark...ain't worth it at that point. Gave me a flashback to soloing Lurking Fear when I was 49 (I'm 55 now). I know, pretty casual compared to what you just did...but still plenty rad for me! Everything went great until the second to last pitch below Thanksgiving Ledge. I was aiding a very slick water-polished groove when my foot slipped and I went pitching over backwards out of my aiders and took an upside down daisy fall. I've always had a really bad back (grade three Spondylolisthesis) and I can assure you that hurt! My back was so messed up I'm amazed I was able to continue. Took me at least a year to recover, it was so bad I was thinking I might need surgery.
What's really weird (in a good way) is that now my back actually bothers me less than before it happened!
But I can certainly relate to the shock of having something traumatic happen high on El Cap while alone...
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Dave Johnson
Mountain climber
Sacramento, CA
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Calling for the rope was a smart decision, Mark. Lot's of bad things happen in the circumstances you faced, but you kept your head and lived to fight another day. Once you recover, you'll probably discover you learned more from this climb than any of your others. Remember Hillary's words: "Nothing venture, nothing win".
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Macronut
Trad climber
Fresno, Ca
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Can't think of any more praises to sing that haven't been song. Which should say something in itself. "Hudon,I'd be your wingman any day."That is if I could hang. Great adventure and thanks for the ride. Enjoy the reunion with the ladies of your life.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mark, great to hear you're down OK, of course...
the challenges we face climbing should not always end in success, if they do, we've haven't challenged ourselves enough. it's inspirational that you went up there, and that you maintained a commitment to a particular style. that was more important then sending the route.
great job
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Mark,
You are one of my heroes in climbing and in life. I hope we can adventure together sometime.
-Roger
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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I have nothing to add, Ed, Paul, and others nailed it.
Glad you're down safe.
...those that try...reap their own rewards.
I'm still trying to get my head wrapped around the running TR thing though:-)
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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I was wondering if this stuff would ever get hard for you. You won't soon forget the Iron Hawk I think- congratulations on a great experience. I checked it twice a day, rooting for ya. Thanks for putting it out there.
Burned up a batch of Yemeni something-or-other while I was reading!
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