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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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This is a bad ass thread!
It's about a bad ass place!
With real bad asses being bad ass!
BUMP
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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I'll say! It's badass just going to check out your route. It's amazing how, what looks like that little ribbon of a river from the rim, is so intense when you get down next to it.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Not to mention dumb-asses being dumb-asses. Between taking 75-footers and catching 75 hundred pound boulders, my latter day Black Canyon experiences have been, um, great learning experiences.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Stories, Black Canyon or otherwise, need closings, and since I already started one, I feel obligated to finish.
The good news...I never got poison ivy. The bad news, I broke a finger trying to divert that big rock. I'm not sure whether to feel happy or sad. The poison ivy thing is actually pretty impressive if you knew what I was up against.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Yosemite with an attitude, raw and not comfortized.
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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I went for the first time a week and half ago, did La Visage (direct start) to the Hallucinogen Wall. It was one of the best big wall routes I have ever done. Nobody does it, which is a shame. It is full on and full value. Technical hard aid climbing with technical hard free climbing mixed in. It was amazing. It's 5.9 A3+ is a nice healthy sandbag (as we expected it to be).
=) loved it, can't wait to go back for some o' that awesome free climbing.
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o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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May 10, 2012 - 01:38am PT
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"It's 5.9 A3+ is a nice healthy sandbag "
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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May 10, 2012 - 09:37am PT
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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May 10, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
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That's rough Grug! We just went down the POYH gully a couple days ago and it's pretty untamed. The p.i. is for real, and there's a shitload of unstable talus as I guess I don't have to tell you. At least you can wash off in the river. I suppose if coming down Long Draw was an option people would go that way- probably cliffs out along the river.
Atlantis is great and you should climb it. Feels like a 12-pitch Eldo route that tops out in the Turkey Rocks, as my partner said- not much crack climbing until you get to the topout. You're gonna need those fingers to be in good shape so best of luck healing up.
Rob, Leadville
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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May 10, 2012 - 06:59pm PT
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Philo, is that your topo? From what year? I know a few different (real good) climbers who have gone up on the dragon and come down with reports of some pretty serious pieces ofthe route missing... It's closed till the fall...
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bob
climber
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May 10, 2012 - 07:11pm PT
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hoipolloi (dave?) why don't you just free the Dragon and take a look whether its worth aiding it? Route - rock = new variations over the same place. I'll pass, but I don't much big wall either. I'm wimpy..
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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May 10, 2012 - 08:20pm PT
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So I WAS lying about the poison ivy-free being better than the broken finger bit. That finger's gonna set me back a few weeks, for sure. The second to last climb I was on was Lucille last August(failed attempt in spite of HUNDREDS of deep knee bends in the months preceeding). Sheesh, an ankle injury woulds qualify me for a Donini trifecta.
Thanks, Rob. God did not intend for these gullies to be walked OUT OF. I'm going on record as saying it's harder to go up 'em.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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May 10, 2012 - 08:29pm PT
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Thank you for the stories.
I am always impressed with your Black Canyon stories
---at a distance.
I am not going there to climb!
Maybe rafting & flyfishing down the river?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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May 10, 2012 - 08:51pm PT
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Philo,
That topo is inspirational. I still have not done a Painted Wall route. THAT'S the one to do!
 Thanks, Fritz
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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May 11, 2012 - 07:49am PT
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Eeyonkee, go in and check out La Visage. I DO NOT think you will be dissapointed. THere isn't even any loose rock. I would say it's clean as El Cap. Bring two talon hooks... hahaha
Bob - yes this is Dave. Those are the friends I know have gone in there (to free it) and they couldn't. I think that is what caught my attention ^^ I hope to check it out in the Fall.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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May 11, 2012 - 07:58am PT
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Grug, You are 100% correct. After spending TWO days wrestling bags,etc back up cruise gulley I have to agree that the gullies are one-way! Vowed that if it happened again I was leaving everything!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 11, 2012 - 08:36am PT
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The Scenic Cruise is considerably better than any route in Yosemite of comparable length and grade.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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May 11, 2012 - 10:45am PT
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The gauntlet is thrown! but he might be right.
The only comparable I can think of is the DNB, which actually isn't very much like the Scenic at all. Or, I suppose, the Steck-Salathe, like Kor said. The Scenic is a tad more elegant.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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May 15, 2012 - 11:59am PT
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I just read in Rock and Ice about the 3rd free ascent of the Hallucingen wall. There is a relevant discussion initiated by the first FA, Hansjorg Auer about this new party rapping in to stash gear instead of a ground up approach.
The thing that irked me though is that the article credits the original first ascent to Becker, Webster and Lella, with no mention of Jimmy Newberry, the keeper of the Canyon, who probably knows more of the nooks and crannies of that place than anyone alive....and, he knows it's "Desperate!".....kids:-|
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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BBST
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!