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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 16, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
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Those kinds of numbers are what I fully expected to see from Bob. I think we just might have us a winner (so to speak).
Good deal, Bob.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 16, 2012 - 11:32pm PT
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Ok... the Manx thing was just to get your GOAT.... I'm still totaling mine up.... got to be close to 40 or so.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Apr 16, 2012 - 11:55pm PT
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I was gonna mention Wet Dreams...but "Friend" beat me to it...
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Apr 17, 2012 - 12:02am PT
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Nice Bob, I knew you were the man up there!!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 17, 2012 - 01:41am PT
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Dr.F,
I hear you about the knob on Insomnia. That's well documented and seems like a weird thing to do. I didn't know about any flake on Wangerbanger. But I am really curious as to your comment about Tony chipping in the Needles.
Care to offer some specifics since you made the accusation?
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froodish
Social climber
Portland, Oregon
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Apr 17, 2012 - 02:09am PT
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Don't think it belongs in the "top 20", but I didn't see Hair Lip mentioned so I'll toss it into the fray - love that climb - crux move is super fun.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 17, 2012 - 09:38pm PT
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Tony chipped holds on a route at the Needles that is the same as the Rappel line from the top!!!
I forgot the dome,
But you can see that they were chipped, they found a chisel at the bottom, and it was Tony's FA.
Someone else must know the details better than me.
Please post up.
We would speculate that the reason his Hardest Route on the Planet was called "The Grand Illusion",
Maybe it would be the hardest route if he actually did it all free, but it was just a grand illusion.
Those are some serious fighting words coming from you. You can't name the route? They found a chisel at the base? Who would be "who?"
I'm kind of an expert on that area, and I am having a hard tome thinking of any route Tony did which goes up a rap line.
Come on man. I've climbed Scirocco, Titanic (followed EE) Pyromaniac (folowed TS) and as many other Yaniro routes in Needles as I can think of. You know how the chiselled hold at Suicide on Man Who Fell to Earth just jumps out at you when you touch it?? There is nothing like that on any of Tony Needles routes which I have done.
Where do you get this sh*t??
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Apr 17, 2012 - 09:42pm PT
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Edit: edited!
I've only done a handful of easy routes on Tahquitz, guiding. Full giggle fest stuff- Angel's Fright, Fingertrip, Jensen's(did it make that damn algorhythm list, can't remember now that you guys are fighting about Enduro).
I did do the Vampire. Drove all the way back from AZ the next weekend after the guiding gig was up, just to do that route.
It was worth it.
If I never climb there again i'd be stoked with my tick list....
But I'm jonesin'!!!
I'll be bock.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Apr 17, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
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I gotta say, I'm impressed by everyones' memories about these climbs (at least the folks around my age). Sheesh, am I the only one who only has cliff notes recollections? Is it worse that I thought? Don't answer that.
Anyhow, since I don't otherwise have much to contribute, and having (probably) done 17 or 18 of them, I thought I would share my selective cliff notes (it's actually everything I remember).
2. Angel's Fright 5.5. First climb at Tahquitz, and first non-boulder (Woodson) climb. Remember stuffing my whole arm in the crack at the belay in case my anchors gave).
3. Left Ski Track 5.6. As with many of my Tahquitz ascents, did it with Phantom X. Cool right to left 5.6 move (if I'm actually remembering Right Ski Tracks, please don't comment about it (I think it is the other one)).
6. Traitor Horn 5.8. Don't you like, mantle a horn or something? And don't you have to remember not to get faked out by the fake horn?
7. Open Book 5.9. West face...sunny. Did it probably more than any other Tahquitz climb (4-5 times?). First free solo. Crack and lie-back.
9. Whodunit 5.9
10. Consolation 5.9
11. El Camino Real 5.10a
Aren't these all on the East side where it's cold in the morning? Seem to remember doing one of them with Bruce Adams circa 1972.
14. Etude 5.11a. Did it once with Dave Hersey and I swear we had about 9 carabiners between us. Seems like I did this one at least 4 or 5 times or more.
17. Insomnia 5.11b. Have some negative visceral reactions to this one because I couldn't on-site it, even though this is my kind of climbing. Remember knowing about for a long time before trying it. Probably did it on my second attempt, but not positive.
18. Green Arch 5.11c. My best day at Tahquitz. Followed George Manson on this after leading rhe Edge.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Apr 18, 2012 - 11:15am PT
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Just because a chisel was found at the base, doesn't mean Tony chipped the holds. Anyone witness it first hand? Proof this....time machine bitches!
Now, a full on abortion of chipping and bolting over old Dad routes.....Chiquito Dome! Thanks A&D.....SoCal chipping queens.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 18, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
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I'm an ass for calling you out for throwing down a serious accusation while saying at the same time you can't even name the formation??
Maybe I take this stuff too seriously, but in my eyes that was a pretty irresponsible thing to do. If you can prove this stuff that's different, but to just throw that out here like a turd in the punch bowl, about a climber we all know, is a bit much.
I'm sorry to be part of turning this otherwise very interesting thread into an argument. Seems to be the way it goes with Dr.F these days...
Carry on - I'm out.
Another very fun BG route is The Incision, right there by the old TS route Magical Mystery Tour. Also those two routes he did on the shady side of the Maiden Buttress, one is called Iron Maiden, are good hard slab pitches on superb rock.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 18, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
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aint no way Yaniro chiseled routes. uh uh. total bullshitt.
Really?
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 18, 2012 - 01:46pm PT
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the stonedmasters got some bad weed if thats what they think My, now that's a broad generalization in more ways than one.
Bob, I think you should bump the rating up a letter on The Crucifiction, seems marginally harder nowadays than it was right after you put it up. Or maybe I'm just old, not sure. You picked a plum with that one. Like all the non-name routes over there I wonder how much it gets done. People are missing a good one if they haven't done it.
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
Seattle
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Apr 18, 2012 - 02:32pm PT
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Why does Newf_Proof_Roof sound sooo familiar? ;-)
Dang! Cant believe there are that many routes at Idyllwild now. I only climbed there sporadically for about 8 years from mid '60s to the early '70s. My old guide shows only 83 routes at Tahquitz (I've done 65), and 114 at suicide (did 61). That gives me a total of 126. Yahoo! All with Vibram soled shoes (didn't own RDs, PAs or EBs). No chalk bag, smooth soles, sticky rubber or cams and we made most of our own nuts. Do I get extra credit old school bonus points?? HA HA.
Really enjoyed going back there once in 2001 for a reunion with old friends. Have fun at the Gordon's everyone!!
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Apr 18, 2012 - 03:07pm PT
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Bob, I think you should bump the rating up a letter on The Crucifiction, seems marginally harder nowadays than it was right after you put it up. Or maybe I'm just old, not sure. You picked a plum with that one. Like all the non-name routes over there I wonder how much it gets done. People are missing a good one if they haven't done it.
Thanks Darrell.
What do you think it should be rated, 12a? 12b?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Apr 18, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
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aint no way Yaniro chiseled routes. uh uh. total bullshitt.
A bit off topic, but, Leslie Gulch, City of Rocks (dolphin), Castle Rocks (redrum)...
Ever see that photo of Wolfgang Güllich at the City of Rocks on a route on the Chocolate Rocks? Perfect drilled pocket...(unkown if that was a TY creation, but, its near some other stuff...). Anyhoo, its in the Hepp biography.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Apr 18, 2012 - 03:26pm PT
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I also think that Field of Dreams is harder than rated in the guide. Harder than any other slab I've tried to lead. I don't search out slab so I don't have a huge amount of milage on harder slab, but I don't avoid it. I'd call that pitch 5.12a. I've redpointed Stairway to Heaven, but not Field of Dreams.
According to the guidebook on Magical Mystery Tour there are two pitons in the crux pitch. Neither of them were there when I did that route. I managed to onsight MMT without tons of trouble (11c), so that's another argument that Field of Dreams is harder than in the guide IMO. I still need to go back and RP Field of Dreams sometime. That pitch is spectacularly blank!
Josh
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Apr 18, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
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Bob, I think calling it 12a would suffice, probably what I would give it. If it's still a little stout so be it, at least it's the right number. An exact science it's not. All I know is I've been over there recently a few times with some good slab climbers. Common consensus was it's not 11d, it's harder. Brilliant climbing up that polished runnel, hoping to pull that knob down to you.
Gaaack. Just looked at the guide to see what else is 12b. Compared to The Ghost and Burning Down the House, maybe it should go the other way. That Ghost thing is desperate, and BDTH has way more hard(er) climbing on it and is run. Yeap, 12a would be the best choice.
One of the original pins on The Magical Mystery Tour used to be over to the left where the guide shows the original route going. After the FFA I think Matt went back and did something more direct but I don't know specifically what. Kind of moot now, but it would be interesting to know what Matt did before things settled into their current state.
All with Vibram soled shoes (didn't own RDs, PAs or EBs). No chalk bag, smooth soles, sticky rubber or cams and we made most of our own nuts. Do I get extra credit old school bonus points? Heck yes. And making (or I should say using) your own nuts counts for double bonus points.
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Apr 18, 2012 - 04:39pm PT
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I also think that Field of Dreams is harder than rated in the guide. Harder than any other slab I've tried to lead. I don't search out slab so I don't have a huge amount of milage on harder slab, but I don't avoid it. I'd call that pitch 5.12a. I've redpointed Stairway to Heaven, but not Field of Dreams.
Thanks Josh:
I've gotten feedback from a number of people that have done Field of Dreams and that is the consensus (5.11d/12a), so I'll up-rate that one in the next guide.
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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Apr 18, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
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RE: Crucifiction
Bob, I think calling it 12a would suffice, probably what I would give it. If it's still a little stout so be it, at least it's the right number. An exact science it's not. All I know is I've been over there recently a few times with some good slab climbers. Common consensus was it's not 11d, it's harder. Brilliant climbing up that polished runnel, hoping to pull that knob down to you.
12a it is!
It's nice to get feedback on ratings...I only did that route once, on the FA, and you know how that goes Darrell, you're so psyched to just climb it that it's difficult to pin a rating on it later.
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