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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 21, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
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the most common mess that the GU climber creates is the dead end into a bolt ladder to nowhere..
Never happened to me, or anybody I climb with that goes strictly ground up.
I see this as when a climber attempts to bolt beyond his/her capabilities (physical ability, technical ability, and bolting ability). OR did not do a good job scoping the line, and being able to decipher the stone before the first bolt is sunk.
Stay within your limits, master the art of GU.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 21, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
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Tfish! Looks steep and sik!
Nice job
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Jun 21, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Jun 21, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
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the most common mess that the GU climber creates is the dead end into a bolt ladder to nowhere..
Got some examples?
I've been stopped dead in my tracks a couple of times on routes I was working on. Hit a tough spot and didn't have the balls or ability to climb through. I left them as open projects and would work on them when I got an inspiration. Eventually I was able to complete every single one. The most recent of which was a project sitting idle for 5 years which had a runnout on difficult terrain I was always unwilling to commit to. Over the years I realized I've developed an ability to drill from increasingly poor stances and found I could actually make use of a particularly bad one. Though it took about 4 hours spread between two days and several dozen falls, I was able to place a bolt where needed to commit to the moves above.
Point is, it may be a blank dead end for now, but eventually you or someone will come along and finish even the most bleak of routes.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 22, 2013 - 11:03am PT
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Two pitchs, GU, drilled on lead...fun!
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Aug 26, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
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When the crack ends the drill begins.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2013 - 01:11pm PT
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http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=149476&msg=2106130#msg2106130
the most common mess that the GU climber creates is the dead end into a bolt ladder to nowhere
in my experience, the consequences of "uncertainty" is to avoid putting bolts in and just running out the pitch into "X" territory, if the route is worth reporting, you've left a "death route."
the FA is open to all sorts of criticism, failed attempts, trashing up the cliff with dead end lines aka "projects," too much runout, too many bolts... on and on.
the alternatives aren't too good either, such as not reporting routes... which might be best if you can take the criticism when you report that that new n-teenth bolt sport climb saw a previous ascent with no bolts... once you get through the incredulity that it had been done, you get criticized for being reckless...
fact is that few climbers put up FAs and the vast majority that don't fancy themselves credible judges of what constitutes a good climb...
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 26, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^
Uhhhhhhh.....
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WHAT!!!???
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afcb
Social climber
UK , UT
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Aug 26, 2013 - 09:33pm PT
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thebird
Big Wall climber
palm desert, ca.
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Aug 26, 2013 - 11:35pm PT
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I believe it depends upon certain variable such as steepness; a human cannot stand in balance at more than 82 degree angle, what percentage of the route requires bolts, the skill level the leader and the type of route desired. In the final analysis, does the end justify the means?
Personally I would rather do a route where bolts are in the correct location as apposed to how the bolts are placed. After all subsequent assents don't give a damn how the bolts were placed. There is a fine line between boldness and stupidity as there is between prudence and cowardice.
When sport climbing is the aim, rappel bolting is the game. The other variables being whether power drills are permitted and the quality of the rock.
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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bump...the bird has spoken.
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