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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2011 - 12:53pm PT
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I think the whole reason I thought this route was sandbagged was because after I climbed it, still being a noob with not much technique, I asked about the rating and someone said it was "the most sandbagged climb in the valley."
I followed it again back in February and it was a little easier.
I think I had built up an aura around the route because it's such a striking line and looked really fun and "not that hard."
It's amazing how experience and better technique shifts one's perspective.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Aug 24, 2011 - 01:50pm PT
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The best time I've ever had on Reed's Direct was linking 1+2. What a pitch.
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scuffy b
climber
dissected alluvial deposits, late Pleistocene
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Sep 29, 2011 - 07:08pm PT
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I know, it's not the climb's fault but...
If you are in Yosemite and want to see a climber having trouble, hanging on
the rope, falling, anything like that...your best bet is to watch the 2nd
pitch of Reed's Direct for a while.
It's almost a sure thing.
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Sep 29, 2011 - 08:09pm PT
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It is interesting that many mentioned on this tread Reed's direct -I've never felt it is harder than average Yosemite 5.9, even when I climbed it first time.
Many times I found big sandbags on multy-pitch routes on sections which not supposed to be cruxes of the routes, and rated one-two grades lower than hardest pitch, but in fact comparable to the hardest part of the route. Examples:
1.Mental block p4 roof rated 5.8 felt comparable in difficulties with crux of the route which is 10c
2. Half Dollar on Free Blast - rated 10b - felt like 10+
3. Third pitch of Yawn " amazing hands" - rated 5.7 - felt like 5.9
4. Steck-Salathe - pitch 5- 5.9 flare after Wilson - felt as the crux of the route, harder than most of 5.9's in the Valley
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Sep 29, 2011 - 09:39pm PT
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Mason,
Why don't you try to go lead that little climb I sand bagged you on again?
I'll belay you again but get it this time so I don't have to lead it yet again ;) OR maybe we can put Ez on it...snicker...
It's really only 5.8...seriously...just a little old school...
kev
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 30, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
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The pitch around the Half Dollar is the best bet in the Valley to watch somebody fall out.
It used to be 5.10a and everybody expects a nose-in wrestling match when the climbing turns technical.
Sitting out in the meadow we used to provide color commentary while about half of the neophytes would shop, stop and drop out of the coin return!
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Sep 30, 2011 - 12:45pm PT
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The second biggest a-holes that I've ever encountered climbing were some super self-satisfied french guides who decided to come share the hanging belay before the 1/2 dollar w/ me after my partner had already started leading the pitch because they were sure they'd be so, so much faster than us. (They were not.) The could have waited 60 feet below on a ledge, but that just wouldn't do.
Anyway, my partner was understandably stressed, but he threw himself into the wet slot and got the job done. From above he got his bit of schadenfreude watching the would-be passer fall out. Bwaahahhhahaha.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Sep 30, 2011 - 12:53pm PT
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By the way, I think Reed's Direct is not a sandbag. Pat has it right - use your feet to save your arms.
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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Sep 30, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
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So Melissa, if those were thwe second biggest, who were the biggest a-holes?
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2011 - 01:19am PT
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I finally led it!!
Well, one hang, just before the crack widens, and slants right, below the first ledge.
I just want to thank Blue for his Hardman training circuit of 12 pack Heineken drinking. And thanks to Brokedownclimber for telling me to enjoy my climbs slowly, like a fine wine, or PBR. And to Captain...or Skully, for telling me never to head-butt the rock.
And after having led it and followed it twice, I do not think it's a sandbag.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Oct 10, 2011 - 01:27am PT
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Oh man, my vote is gonna be either "Ilsa, She wolf of the SS", a Watson sandbag, or Dan Mcdivotts "Pokerface", which I understand has new bolts, making the runouts less clenching. Both of these routes are sketchy for the grade.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Oct 10, 2011 - 04:36am PT
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How about the first pitch of DNB? The odd grovelly crack. Was that mentioned somewhere upthread?
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Oct 10, 2011 - 11:57am PT
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Gidget does Yosemite. Susan
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photonez
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Oct 11, 2011 - 12:18am PT
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Me - Do something cool. Like fall or something.
Mason - WTF, I'm trying to lead here.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Oct 11, 2011 - 11:36am PT
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Nice job, guys.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Oct 11, 2011 - 01:12pm PT
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The 5.8 and 5.9 pitches on Paradise Lost are sort of stout because BITD they had no pro at all. I also don't think many people do the East Buttress of Middle totally clean. That's a hard 5.10c pitch and before the bolts were replaced it's was hard to even clip them standing on bullshit in the old PAs. Hangdog Flier is hard because you have to wiggle in pro. If you can just gas it (TR) and not stop, it's not NEARLY so hard - except for that thin boulder type move near the top, where you're crimping that hold out left - wasn't that the move there? Getting a little fuzzy after 120 years. I said so before but Cramming feels hard for 10c but I have fat mitts. And most of Central Pillar is 10a, really. It amazes me that the upper part of the route doesn't get done. It's pretty well protected and better than the lower part. Probably 10d/11a.
And what's that thing Kevin W. did behind Camp 4 rated 10d? Used to have a couple points of aid at the bottom. And Henley Quits left side at 11b? Way harder. And Dynamo Hum has to be 5.12 unless you have Bugaboos for fingers. And the Crack of Despair is a very hard size for 10a. Like an inverted hourglass.And for me, Anticipation is 5.12. I cannot get my fingers into it and have to do impossible stems and reaches.
Church Bowl Terrace at 5.8? Rally? We used to mass solo it but really? 5.8?
But wait, there's more . . .
JL
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Oct 11, 2011 - 01:26pm PT
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How about North Buttress of Middle Cathedral? (not DNB)
Twice I've done the first half or so (never finished it yet), and just about every rated pitch is more serious than the grade would indicate, and at least one part (the end of the Reid 5.9 pitch below the 5.10a pitch) has significant face moves way out right with no chance for modern pro (but a piton in the old days would have made it more casual). There is another way to go that I might try next time.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Oct 11, 2011 - 01:28pm PT
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Church Bowl Terrace at 5.8? Rally? We used to mass solo it but really? 5.8?
Largo, are you saying it's easier or harder than 5.8?
I wouldn't solo it unless my life depended on it (e.g. chased by non-climbing terrorists with knifes), but I felt pretty darn plugged in at every point and I max out at easy 5.10
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Oct 11, 2011 - 01:42pm PT
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Maybe someone mentioned it earlier: Lena's Lieback.
That's a SOLID 5.9, I'd call it 9+ or maybe a little more. Very difficult to find stances to place pro. Sustained at the grade. Maybe a move or 2 of 10a or was I just tired? Very good climb to test your 5.9 skills.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 11, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
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Climbs are natural rock formations, except, perhaps, the WOS. The only thing sandbagged about them is the rating they are given. If ratings were a consensus instead of a sacrosanct number given by the the first ascent party, sandbags would be on the endangered species list.
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