Devil's Lake Wisconsin Climbing History

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jogill

climber
Colorado
Jun 30, 2010 - 12:28am PT
Dave was an amazing guy. I had a lot of admiration for him, scampering up his tough test pieces in crepe-soled boots! Scared me a couple of times, following him around. May his memory live on . . .
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2010 - 05:58pm PT
What did Dave do for a living to retire so young?
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Jun 30, 2010 - 10:38pm PT
He was an honest-to-god farmer but got rich by astute plays in various futures markets.
MH2

climber
Jul 2, 2010 - 11:04pm PT
He was an honest-to-god farmer but got rich by astute plays in various futures markets.


Until someone with better information comes along:

Dave Slinger was an onion farmer who bought a seat on the Chicago Mercantile Exchange. He told us that you could expect to make money on 6 out of 10 deals. He did very well in pea futures before the regulators ruled them too speculative.

Although very quiet he had great curiosity, liked to play bridge, ran the 3 miles around the Lake in early morning, and played tennis.

He said that municipal bonds were a good way for the rich to get richer and that the US should consider luxury taxes like the British used after WWII.

He described a too-good-to-be-true trip that American advisors made to a backwards area of Mexico in the Peace Corps era. The Americans told the locals that if they built some roads, dams, and generating stations, then they wouldn't need to work so hard. "We don't work hard, now," was the response.

He canoed down the Mackenzie River (it flows north to the Arctic), was taken captive by men with rifles, but escaped, as he told it, by back-paddling while pretending to follow the other boat and then zipping up a tributary and hiding as darkness came.

He was generous and opened his cabin to many of us for overnight stays when climbing.

The last person to see him that I spoke to was Dick Cilley, who said that Dave was still strong and active but under the implacable comes-on-cat's-feet attack of dementia. That was at least 20 years ago.


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2010 - 12:48am PT
Bump for a Cilley testimonial!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2010 - 10:13am PT
Cilley story Bump!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 8, 2010 - 03:03pm PT
Cilley has dementia?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2010 - 10:51pm PT
A very early article from Summit November 1957.


LongAgo

Trad climber
Aug 29, 2010 - 03:19am PT
I climbed a bit there in the late 60's and could not agree more with posters who note some of the ratings seemed, well, conservative. Maybe they since have been changed.

Also found the rock quite varied, some like sandstone, some like glass. I recall one wall where you could see the transition from one quality to another in a matter of 20-30 feet.

And, hardly needs saying, but for the record Pete Cleveland was very able and gutsy, as I found climbing with him a little there. No news really - one need only look at his ascent of Superpin in the Needles to know his ability.

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2010 - 12:33pm PT
Tom- How did you hear about Devil's Lake as a climbing destination?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 15, 2010 - 08:49pm PT
Rockin' Walleyed Cheesehead Bump!
kfons

Trad climber
Madison, WI
Nov 10, 2010 - 10:21pm PT
Rich Becheler (Prunes) passed away this morning at age 50. I do not have many details but he has been having health problems the last few years. When I have details of the service I will post them. I will miss him, he was a very close friend. My prayers are with him and his family
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2012 - 06:43pm PT
Memorial Bump for Prunes...
RhoadsClimbs

Trad climber
Madison, WI
Apr 13, 2012 - 12:40pm PT
Anyone have a copy of the Pete Cleveland interview from Climbing Mag a while back?
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
Apr 13, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
Prunes bump
MH2

climber
Apr 13, 2012 - 07:31pm PT
Amen bump
RhoadsClimbs

Trad climber
Madison, WI
Jul 2, 2012 - 11:16am PT
See this link to support a DLFA Documentary!

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2126892908/the-dlfa-a-documentary-film
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Sep 28, 2012 - 11:33am PT
i plan to climb here saturday and sunday. the university of wisconsin climbing club will be there saturday, of which my young friend, josh l. of calabasas, is a recent member.

if you're near, come on out. looking forward to a close look at this legendary quartzite.
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Oct 2, 2012 - 09:01pm PT
in a word--WOW.

there's nothing quite like this rock. if you haven't climbed it, you owe it to yourself to go out of your way and see what devil's lake is all about. it's hard, hard, hard, protects like a dream, and poses some superb problems, unlike any area i've been to before.

devil's lake has 1,700 climbs. most are 100 feet long or less, many can be led, but there's a strong tradition of toproping, i think because the forest comes right to the bluff edge, offering handy anchor trees.

i tried to play the apostle of lead climbing for awhile and drew some curious onlookers, but the respectable toproping that went on, including many 5.11s, convinced me that i was in rome and should do as the romans do.

thanks to the UW climbing club and my friend josh of calabasas for taking me under their wing, and cheers to brian of milwaukee, three years older than me, relentlessly cranking 11 after 11.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
A Devil's Bump for 2013!
Messages 181 - 200 of total 235 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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