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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 29, 2011 - 11:21am PT
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Great weekend out there all! Great climbing with you Sean.
Slack Ping topo will be out soon.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Jun 29, 2011 - 12:38pm PT
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Death of the Repubs Bump
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 29, 2011 - 12:44pm PT
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Wade, when ya coming out to Shuteye?
Also I still owe you a bolt n hanger from Parkline. Problem is they are all mixed with the rest I've pulled.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 29, 2011 - 02:07pm PT
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Grahm did you make it out over the weekend? Road conditions?
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jun 29, 2011 - 03:03pm PT
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Jeff.....pray tell the gouge on the above pic?
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jun 29, 2011 - 03:11pm PT
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I'm gonna guess Runnel Vision, something 'round there. But there are a lot of little walls like that out there still.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 29, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
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Not Runnel Vision but it is on the Runnel Vision wall. It is right of Runnel Vision and 2 routes left of The Way We Roll.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jun 30, 2011 - 03:08pm PT
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HEAVEN Tork!! Maybe late July with my daughter (don't tell he we're going climbing....or Mrs. Mooch for that matter. HA!)
Bringing up Pat Brennan and crew in late September for the tour out to the Eagles and LE. Hoping the regular Ridge crew will come out in force and be stewards when they come. Want to share wwith them what they've been missing since they won't have bumpers to belay from.....
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 30, 2011 - 06:31pm PT
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Keep us posted mooch, maybe we can meet up out there.
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Jun 30, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
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Yeah, I don't know why you guys don't use more power-drills up there, because you can.
C'mon Blue, don't temp him to into joining the dark side. Yes, you can use a power drill. But, you can also rap bolt, top rope preview, etc. Kinda removes a bit of challenge from the endeavor and lessens the climb IMHO. I suppose it's more about personal choice than ethics, anyway.
Besides he paid a lot of $$ for that new elbow, he might as well get a chance to use it!
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Hey Bob, you heading to So Yo this weekend?
Jeff?
Wonder how bad the snow is now at high eagle..
Mooch, keep us posted too if you get out there in July. Be nice to get another group together.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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C'mon Blue, don't temp him to into joining the dark side. Yes, you can use a power drill. But, you can also rap bolt, top rope preview, etc. Kinda removes a bit of challenge from the endeavor and lessens the climb IMHO. I suppose it's more about personal choice than ethics, anyway.
Besides he paid a lot of $$ for that new elbow, he might as well get a chance to use it!
Valid point!
Hope to climb with you guys again.
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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Hi Su,
Yes, I'll be out there with the family. It will be lil' e's 2nd trip to the area. He's 1.7 years old so I'll be spending most of my time trying to keep him from self-darwinizing. Dan and some others are going too. We'll be up at Norris Creek, just past the Balls.
Where will you be and what is on the rock menu?
Blue- see you out there as well? We'll both be baby/kid sitting instead of climbing!!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Burn some elbows for me.
Have a good 4th everybody!
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Is the road to Big Sleep open? Adam and I are looking to climb either in SO Yo or Sequoia, but we're tryin to leave in a few hours......whats open and good? Kinda long and moderate would be cool.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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Or chiquito perhaps?
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fishtrap
Trad climber
Bass Lake, CA
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You can for sure get to Chiquito Dome and I would be very surprised if you couldn't get all the way to Big Sleep by now. I just heard today that Beasore is open to Granite Creek so climbing in the Balls is an option also if you know that area.
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micronut
Trad climber
fresno, ca
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We made it up to Chiquito on Saturday and had a great morning out. I had never actually been up the road towards Mammoth Pool from North Fork. We always drive up and climb at The Balls, so the area was totally new for us. Here's a mini TR. Elapsed time from front door to front door. 12 hrs. Including a 4 hour "nap" at Soda Springs from 1:30 am to 4:30am.
Leaving Fresno at 11:30PM Friday night. Kids in bed....daddys headin' into the hills. We HAD to be back by 10:00am the next morning, so this would be a smash and dash mission. In and out. Up and down. Do not anger the wives young men, they are gracious but must not be pushed beyond reason.
Black Coffee and The Spencer Guide....what more does a fella need. Sleep? Bah!
We shoot through North Fork by 11:00....we're at Soda Springs by 1;15AM. Throwin sleepin bags on the pine needles....shooting stars overhead.......the Jetboil is set up with coffee by my pillow for the rude awakening of the i-phone alarm (set fro 4:30)....the smell of pines fills our nostrils and the wind sings us to sleep. It feels like a loooong way from Fresno.
We're racking by sunrise. Peets makes everything better.
5:30 am. Hopelessly lost in some drainage from Land of The Lost. I hate Spencer and his little creme colored guide. Thanks Nate D for the directions....they eventually got us to the rock. We dont find the trail until we're at the base of the dome.
6:05 I donate a pint of O neg to the voracious Chiquito Dome Skeeter Blood Bank.
Shep(Macronut) finds the Start of The Acolyte and grabs the rack in order to escape the bloodletting below as the sun spills over the trees and splashes onto Shuteye Ridge.
The route lives up to its fine reputation and the pitches drop away quickly.
The steep little bulge move on the start of pitch three is super fun and Shep skoolz it quickly.....I wonder if he minds that I'm always telling him to "hold it right there for a sec..." while I shoot buttshots on the i-phone.
We climb quickly and Shep heads straight right from the fourth pitch belay to a cool little crack....The Minarets peek over the ridge out to the East.
By this time, our BACK BY 10:00AM PROMISE is in dire straits. Its 7:50 and we still have to top out, find the way down and drive 1:50 minutes.
Hey Shep......"Whats the latest we can get home and stay married to our wives....not happily married...you know, just married?"
"Eleven..max....you're on belay...Now git up there Micronut!"
We're on top by 8:20.
Full on running down the hill by 8:45.
Swimming In the creek by 9:00.
Home by 11:00.
Denny's Grand Slam and free coffee refills with the wife and kids by 11:17.
All is well and right in the universe.
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Enjoyed your TR Micronut ~ way to make it all happen... especially on such a hot weekend.
Bob, we were camped out near Gray and mostly hiked this weekend. Too bad we missed you guys. Hope you managed to get some climbing in after all.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Good stuff, Micro!
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