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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2007 - 08:28pm PT
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Nice one, Werner. The essence of clean climbing in a few lines.
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Very nice Werner, didn't know you were a rapper.
Steve, you missed my point AGAIN. I was laughing at YOU up there. You take yourself WAY to seriously. LOL
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jan 12, 2007 - 05:01pm PT
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Are angles solid when placed like the one above versus put in 90 degrees either way?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 19, 2007 - 04:31pm PT
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Back to the plot again.... Here is the Clog arsenal as available in the 1968 Chouinard catalog, pre clean climbing revolution!
Note the tiny brass Hex, possibly the first micronut!
Still OK to give the primitive nuggets a little tap as of 68. Not for long...
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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May 19, 2007 - 09:21pm PT
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Hey Steve Grossman! I know you will not remember me but I vaguely know you from the Syndicata Granitica days. I started climbing with Tim Coates, Larry's younger brother. I got dragged up some great climbs by Tim, when you're lame its pretty great to have a buddy thats a big stud! And for anyone who would question the ethics, well...I remember no toproping or chalk allowed at Paradise Forks and the Cwm. So I dont think there was too much hammering allowed. You needed a damn good reason back then! Micheal Smith
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E.L. "One"
Big Wall climber
Lancaster, California
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May 19, 2007 - 09:22pm PT
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This is what I love about this sport, and this site!! I can pop off about my own experience concerning this thread, with far less credibility than most posters, return months later after reading recent posts and feeling my head swell in reaction to all this technical talk, pop off again, and then look forward to my next adventure in the vertical world knowing the only thing that really matters is answering to myself. Damit!!! It's All Good!! I Love you guys !!!!
Cracko
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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May 19, 2007 - 09:35pm PT
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It takes balls to use nuts...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 19, 2007 - 11:20pm PT
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Make that "John's house of balls".
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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May 20, 2007 - 02:12am PT
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I saw a way to hammer gear and make it easy on the rock once. Use wood.
Anyone ever do the Fissure Brown on the Blatiere?
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - May 20, 2007 - 03:03am PT
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Base 104, you're right, the old wooden wedges were non-harmfull to the rock. I used them on a route in City of Rocks in the 1960's, and they worked perfectly well. In this case I'd say if your balls are itching, it's better to scratch them with wood than steel. Less likely to cause permanent damage. Maybe this is the origin of the term "woody"?
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mack
Trad climber
vermont
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May 20, 2007 - 11:01am PT
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How about including the women here? Sometimes it takes some mighty big ovaries to use nuts.
Mack
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Mimi
climber
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May 20, 2007 - 01:27pm PT
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Hey Hern, we saw a lot of wood on mainly the guided routes in the Alps. Didn't do anything on the Blat. What did you see?
WoodyJello, you might get a little woodsy over those old Euroblocks. But there's no question which came first...LOL!
Mack, we all know that women can be bold too, and they don't need no gymbag to play hard.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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May 20, 2007 - 05:29pm PT
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Wow Steve, that picture brings back memories...
Before Chouinard stocked 'em, right after Robbins' Summit article appeared, you sent $15 off to Joe Brown in Snowdonia, and back came a little box with approximately the collection pictured (nothing on wire though) with various bits of precut webbing for threading.
Soon after getting my supply, I think in the Spring of '68, I headed up, heart all a-twitter, with my little Joe Brown nut collection but without pitons or hammer, to do battle with the mighty Double Crack in the Gunks. (In 1968, it was quite a bit mightier than it is now.) I guess I was supposed to be feeling all those good vibes that come from clean climbing and natural protection, even though the terms had yet to be coined. But mostly, I was quaking to to find myself high on the cliff without any of the tools I knew and trusted to protect me from the consequences of a fall, fiddling with little wedgie thingies threaded with what looked more and more like gift-wrap ribbon as I got higher and higher.
I didn't fall, so none of those ribbons had a chance to snap. But the idea that you could do American climbs with just nuts became plausible, an idea that grew and prospered for a while, until cams changed the game yet again.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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May 20, 2007 - 05:54pm PT
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Dolt stuff in the Neptune museum
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 20, 2007 - 07:35pm PT
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Thanks Rgold- the mystery of the Joe Brown selection is solved. No tiny brass hex, bummer. It really took balls to use those nuts!
Ray- nice post from Neptune's wall. Pay particular notice to the two examples of Grooveynuts (Gruvynuts?) just right of the pair of hooks. An integral axle design, the Grooveynut stopped just short of three-way brilliance by leaving one pair of planes untapered. Beautiful bit of design and milling work early on. The right hand one is the most refined, the left a prototype I think.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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May 20, 2007 - 08:54pm PT
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Steve I'll shoot some more of Gary's hardware selection - it's great and kinda amazing to read your analysis - there was a number of items on this wall.
Later this week for sure.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 20, 2007 - 09:59pm PT
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Larry DeAngelo is still climbing on that threaded Dolt stuff on the bottom of the board. He had about three/four pieces threaded on each of several 1" shoulder slings when I was out with him a just before the Sushifest...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 20, 2007 - 10:16pm PT
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Dolt Colornuts. Kids these days just don't value a runner. LOL
I just noticed the micropiton displayed on the blue tag. Never seen one of those before!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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May 20, 2007 - 10:24pm PT
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I'll see if I can get some close ups of it later this week.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 20, 2007 - 11:02pm PT
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While we are talking Dolt gear, this piton has been my trusty nut tool and crack scratcher as long as I can remember. Note the distinctive elongated eye shape. The blade tip is worn from excavating hundreds of tiny nut placements as small as they come!
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