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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Good luck with the doc Kev and I do hope to see you soon.
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Jun 10, 2011 - 12:28pm PT
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Nice photos, Jeff, got some more? I wawona go to Wawona Dome soon! When's it going to get too hot there?
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Jun 10, 2011 - 06:33pm PT
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Send me in exile to Exile!
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Jun 11, 2011 - 12:07am PT
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Grahm, we gotta go see what this Exile dome is all about...
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 14, 2011 - 11:09pm PT
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Sue, here is a repost of Flanders on Fatty Can't Fit
It will be on the hot side up there now. Mornings til about 1:00 can be nice.
Red Eagle last weekend
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jun 14, 2011 - 11:15pm PT
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Red has some fun stuff on it! I did a route there last year.
Nice!
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Jun 15, 2011 - 01:43am PT
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Great shot of Mony on Red! Looks like a classic line! Got a name? How was access with all that snow?
Well, maybe we can try for Wawona this fall.
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sneville
climber
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Jun 15, 2011 - 02:03am PT
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Jeff,
Sweet pic of red dihedral. How was the alpine approach? Were you doing some recon on the right wall. What else did you climb? Did you get on wham bam thankyou jam?
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 15, 2011 - 09:32am PT
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We did the Minerva approach, snow free, then over the gap down to the base of the dihedral. Lots of snow at the base of both formations but easy enough to kick steps. Climbed the first 2 pitches of the Red Dihedral then up the vertical red face with great pro to a knob belay. Finished just right of Wham Bam. Rapped Minerva. Poor judgement on the last pull of the rope and it ended up in the drink...felt 20 pounds heavier. At that point it was beer:30. Climbing the slabby side of Chiquito the next day was perfect for drying out our wet line. Sean, tell me about that line of new bolts below Top Gun.
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Banquo
Trad climber
Morgan Hill, CA (Mo' Hill)
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Jun 15, 2011 - 10:31am PT
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The photo on the previous page is not Wawona. On May 29, we hiked in to explore a new wall.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jun 15, 2011 - 11:28am PT
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Tork, the snow at the base is a great element to that pic, oh yea and that golden stone!
I like how you decided to dry your rope out too, lol. New bolts on top gun or next to it?
I think it's finally summer now, the mosquitos are barely starting to come out, and the rivers are pissed. Good to see that stone, gracias.
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Jun 15, 2011 - 02:55pm PT
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Banquo - it looks a lot like a climb on Wawona. Makes me wonder where the climb in the photo is!
This just in - Can you tell us if you know anything about that route to the left of Top Gun but not as far left as Elegant? It's very good.
Also, is the road clear to Big Sleep?
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Jun 15, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
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Susu, I haven't been there since last year so I'm not sure of the new route. As of last weekend you can get to haskell meadow, there's a big drift that hopefully melts soon and then it should be completely open to vehicles. Maybe two weeks, at the most.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jun 15, 2011 - 04:45pm PT
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Good tease Banquo. Looks like you beat me to something. :)
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sneville
climber
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Jun 15, 2011 - 05:14pm PT
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Jeff,
Nice line I was looking at doing that this year but you beat me to it. Now we are even. How much snow is at the base of minerva? Does it look like this?
The route to the left of top gun is called ThunderBelly in honor of mucci. Nine bolts all hand drilled on lead by john and myself. John got the FFA and we think solid 11a slab crux. Belay at the bolts for the first pitch of top gun.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jun 15, 2011 - 05:33pm PT
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Cool pics Sean. When I TR'd the crux of that thin slab thing a handful of years ago, it felt like hard .10, but I like the sound of .11a (not that I'm chasing numbers) :)
I look forward to leading it someday. Good luck on the gnarly overlap project.
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Jun 15, 2011 - 06:56pm PT
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Nate, Thunder Belly would probably have been scarey to TR without directionals which couldn't have existed when you TR'd in the vicinity, so maybe you TR'd something more directly under the TG anchor? Also, is there an unwritten rule to not downgrade a climb until led? ;) Ahh, just play'n.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jun 15, 2011 - 07:21pm PT
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Hey, I struggled, so no downgrade intended. I barely squeaked thru. And things feel easier on TR, no? :) Can't recall if a nut was placed in the crack for a directional, but I recall the crux section (right around the black knob, for which you feel very grateful) being somewhat below the anchor. It's a narrow section of rock there, so not many other paths to take. You guys definitely followed the path of least resistance. 'Course, I never veered left into the golden terrain beyond the crux, which would have been weird on TR when there's the Top Gun variation crack to follow. And I make no claims to being the first to TR that section. Fun stuff and great work!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 15, 2011 - 09:33pm PT
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Nice job Sean and John. Wish I had known you guys sent your line. I stayed off even though I was itching to give it a go. Also looked at that roof crack... looks doable but hard and hard on the rope if you come out of there. Looks like it goes way wide just past the roof.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jun 15, 2011 - 10:03pm PT
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Don't tell Mony I posted this, she will kill me!
First belay
The final move of vertical plates and knobs before the easy knobs to the anchor.
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