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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Feb 18, 2014 - 12:06am PT
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I got it too.
i complete the survey and the next thing you know I got a bunch of porn in my inbox.
so now I have two things to thank him for.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 24, 2014 - 05:24pm PT
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Was there much summiting done this year. Haven't heard much.
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Jay Hack
Trad climber
Detroit, Michigan
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Apr 25, 2014 - 11:15am PT
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Not much action this year. I was down there for part of December and January and the weather was back to its old atrocious self with windows in the 6-12hr range, not the more lenient 24-48hr range....ahh...Patagonia...you are awesome. I thought I heard that there were a couple of successful climbs later in the season.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 11, 2014 - 12:39pm PT
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Cerro Torre Crazy - Silvo Karo in Mountain 129, 1989
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 11, 2014 - 01:37pm PT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 11, 2014 - 03:55pm PT
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That's it Reilly! Some folks here will think it's the Third Pillar of Dana.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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May 11, 2014 - 03:59pm PT
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The photo is a dream... a painting by a great master...
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JFrimer
Trad climber
BC
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Aug 22, 2015 - 10:05am PT
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I'm both a climber and a professor of social psychology.
Along with my colleagues, I recently published a scientific paper about this thread.
We found that climbers defend Cerro Torre in much the same way that social conservatives defend the American flag and "traditional" marriage. That is, they treat it as a sacred object that ought to remain pure and unaltered. These are symptoms of moral tribalism.
Here's a link to the full paper.
And some of the main findings:
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Aug 22, 2015 - 04:27pm PT
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I find it interesting that "fair" and "respect" are the two biggest words in the cloud. Maybe I don't understand your numbers, but why do associate this language with social conservatives defending same sex marriage? If anything, I would say I heard this sort of language more often from social liberals defending marriage equality
Edit: (because I didn't want to bump the thread). So I was able to take some time and look over the article and I think I understand a little better now what you're getting on about. This wasn't clear to me from your post.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Aug 22, 2015 - 04:44pm PT
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A major difference between Cerro Torre and other issues that elicit similar responses is that there is only one Cerro Torre. It is sort of like having only one American Flag that everyone has to share or, more provocatively, only one marriage that everyone has to share.
That said, Frimer's paper is just testing hypotheses and using our collective reaction to the controversy of Maestri's bolts. The bolting controversy itself is just a vehicle to test the hypotheses.
Surprisingly, at least to me, is that 30% of the respondents to the survey have climbed Cerro Torre.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 22, 2015 - 04:50pm PT
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You're right Roger, and as a singular, iconic mountain we should respect IT. Cerro Torre should not be adorned with a via ferrata nor should Half Dome have cables draped down its flank.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 22, 2015 - 05:43pm PT
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Yeah, and I'm a Nazi for opposing the 'people's tram' to the top of Half Dome? But I do agree
that in the interest of fairness and diversity Yosemite should lose the pizza joint and open
good BBQ and sushi joints.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 22, 2015 - 06:03pm PT
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I'm a pantheist......and I don't like seeing humans, who have been here a short time and likely don't have much time left, desecrating Nature's wonders.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Aug 22, 2015 - 11:57pm PT
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JFrimer.
As one of the participants in the survey: Well done, an interesting read and no surprise. Though I'm critical about some of the questions I didn't find in the survey. As you ask, you get the answers.
TFPU!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Aug 23, 2015 - 12:43am PT
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I'm a pantheist......and I don't like seeing humans, who have been here a short time and likely don't have much time left, desecrating Nature's wonders.
Well said...
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Oct 20, 2015 - 02:02am PT
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All said and done are we?
It is a good read some thinking and then a lot more rationalizing
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 20, 2015 - 06:43am PT
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For me it's been all said and done since I climbed the route to the Col of Conquest in 1976 and saw the evidence or lack thereof.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Oh the job will get finished all right. 2 to 1 says those bolts are going back in.
Wanna bet?
The world's strangest and probably slowest bolt war has commenced.
DMT
Bump for probably should have taken that bet.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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The Compressor Route has some real climbing on it and with the elimination of the bolts on the headwall the world’s most beautiful mountain now has a route more befitting it. Keep in mind that Hayden and Jason did not use the bolts and then chop them. They climbed the headwall sans bolts at 5.11+ A2, a grade within the range of many climbers.
Maestri trumpeted that he climbed Cerro Torre in 1959 with Toni Egger by a route that would have been, far and away, the most magnificent climb in history given the weather conditions and the equipment avaiable at that time. The only problem is that his claim was perhaps the most brazen lie in climbing history.
To claim such a climb and then come back years latter with an army of climbers and a compressor to power the many bolts they placed boggles the mind and is a cynical act deserving the defamation it received.
I believe that I am in a position to comment. In 1976 I, along with John Bragg and Jay Wilson, climbed Maestri’s supposed 1959 route to the Col of Conquest on the way to our first ascent of Torre Egger. What we found and DIDN’T find exposed Maestri’s lies.
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