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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Contractor. Especially on the big gun (regular Blacks gun is more personal taste), shift the foil to thicker under your chest. So for instance, the 2 feet forward of Center should be thicker (not by a whole lot about 1/8 inch max at least) than the 2 feet behind center with the thickest part of the board forward of center. The rest can be a double ender, or have the tail slightly thicker. Works especially well with a relaxed entry rocker (just make sure there is a little roll vee in the nose after glassing): fast and paddles like crazy. Like the width! Especially for the Sloughs.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Skcreidc-
I'm on board with your comments (no pun intended). I can tell you know what's up!
I weigh 155 and have surfed a 6-6 at Blacks well beyond double overhead so the 6-8 with extra liters will get me to the 7-6 I have.
I did roll some V on the nose of the 9-2. All the Sloughs guys say the same thing- good call. I also eliminated concave past the front foot but there a slight single concave starting mid board transitioning to some crazy double concave and a V out the tail. It's a little wide for Todos but it's made for Sloughs and Little Makaha.
I used to Cary the thickness up under my chest but I've started to pack the volume in the center of the board and blade out the nose and tail for better rebound. It definitely helps on my short boards but may not work on a 9-2 (my fist gun shape).
These programs harmonize the curves so well.
Do you hand shape?
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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So contractor, lets see if I can keep this short.
Skcreidc's bullshit "theory" of modern rhino-chaser foils (foil being thickness flow generally along the stringer)
Goal: volume/rocker to get you in that wave before you get launched, and in a manner in which you do not pearl on the way down.
When paddling a 9, 10, or 11' board, you are not paddling over the spot near which you will stand to ride thing. You are pretty far forward of it, and when you hop to your feet you actually jump back a fair amount. If you doubt this, take a 9' longboard out and belly paddle the thing into a few waves. Basically, the meat of the board is forward for better paddling. This has two extra added benefits; first, when you hop up the volume is slightly forward of your stance making it harder to pearl no matter what the wave is throwing at you (all shorts of wind chop and varying degrees of double and triple ups ect.) Second, because the volume is slightly forward, you can lower the entry rocker even more (taking into account the bottom of the board) to allow for even easier paddle-ins and shorter boards. Why shorter boards on big waves? Well, because no matter what size wave you are on, man-handling a 10 or 11 foot board that is 3.5+ inches thick is no easy task. The main use of a board that size is just to get you in the wave. After that, you'd wish the thing would shrink a bit for riding the wave. Ask the tow-in guys.
There are actually more benefits to this kind of foil in a gun, but these are the "big" ones....maybe another day if anybody actually gives a damn.
I've done both machine and hand. You have to be on the cutters for machine cuts. Things can go out of specs fast and I always ordered my cuts an inch longer so I could fix stuff in the templates, rocker, and foil. Right now just handshapes.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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.maybe another day if anybody actually gives a damn.
I do but dont post on this guys thread cuzz he kind ....
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Nice outline!
Yep, that all makes sense.
I'll update on how it goes and thanks for the insight- I love this shet!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Way to geek out on this sh#t guys.
I never needed a gun.
My step up was a 6'6 Midget Smith(rip), still with a squash.
I hardly ever rode it- occasionally at Park, and one memorable Blacks day, probably recounted somewhere in this thread.
I also had a 7'4 Rick Rock/Watermans Guild pin. Now that board worked but again, rarely rode it- I can remember one post storm night at absolutely macking Uppers, just me and Herbie in the water. Probably the only time I ever got a little scared at the point.
Being primarily a Trestles surfer I rode short squat boards no matter how big it got.
I never really dug standard shortboards.
Now that I live in the desert and only surf a few times a year if that, I dream of a lifetime trip to Indo and think about what board(s) I would need or take. For barreling waves and something I could ride in a variety of conditions, I'd probably order a stock Black Beauty.
The boards I have left:
5'11x21 Xanadu pop out keel- stashed in San Clemente. Main rider. Turns Sano into Trestles.
9'2 Hobie round pin pro hand-me-down. Not high performance and not traditional,good glass , just right for glassy micro peelers.
5'11 Mayhem RNF twin with trailer. The closest I have to a traditional shortboard in dims and glassing. Can switch between this and the Xanadu easily. More for the beachbreak.
6'0 Tyler Deuce prototype, "The Exterminator". Right before fishes became too popular, this was my rider. People thought it was a knee board. Lighter glass, not clunky rails, epic glass on keels. Just plain and excellent. By the time it was done, fishes were all the rage but they were all to heavy, super expensive, blinged out pinstripes, and just a little lame- all fad, not rad, made me sad. And every dork had one. They became the new longboard, and the focus of hate at the marquee spots I surfed. That's when I got the pop out keel, f*#k it. It was light and stiff and white and almost indestructible. But I must apologize to you, Chris, someone who actually shapes, and even you, contractor, and your cnc's....still more soul than a surftech.
6'3x21 70's Gabe Garduque Hawaiian Spirit single fin, small swallow, with "jets"- early channels. F*#king loved riding that board at Lowers...oh god, to bottom turn on that thing again...just before retro got super popular.
7'2 70's pin, triple stringer. Wallhanger.
And contractor- your question about rock/surf....
Rainbow/OSide was the best combo.
There's Rincon/Gibraltar
Malibu Creek/Secos
Some climbing in SLO and Big Sur too.
But Rainbow and afternoon RJ....awww man....f*#king miss those days.
My last surf....score.
Weepy to say it was a year ago.....boooooohoooooo
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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drljefe; wrt Black Beauty boads:
Have you ridden one, or do you just like the looks?
and
What length would you get?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Well I'd be lying if I said it didn't have something to do with Curren worship lol!
Just the outline, the tail, a little extra meat...I know it would work for me- mostly for hollow waves, personally, but a good travel board for variety of waves and size.
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east side underground
climber
paul linaweaver hilton crk ca
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hey contractor , to answer your question I don't know of any nor-cal coastal granite. the only nor-cal granite i know of is the trinity alps ,not too close to the coast and ive only been there once hiking so sorry not much help. Really like your board design I need to get something in the 6'4" range . I tend to ride bigger boards, being old and weak. My favorite ride is a 7"10" Wellman fron Kauai, when the above spot starts to work ,its a big water wave , and the extra foam really can come into play for me. cheers edit: Holy sh#t ! just looked at the forcast for next week looks like it's going to be pumping! time to dust off Mr. Wellman ..... ho mon!!!
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Thanks Kelly- Can't wait to check that!
Eastside- The Ranch? really nice shot. I surfed Razors similar to that 25 years ago.
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jonnyrig
climber
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My old man, now in his 90's, used to shape his own boards as a teenager and surf down around La Jolla. Best times were just before or after a storm, says he. Used spar varnish for waterproofing, and says Duke was a strong influence on them way back when (though they never actually met, of course). Sure wish he'd taught me.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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I've never watched a live big wafe surf event before. This is awesome.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Ready for glass
9-2 gun
5-11 small wave board
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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The Jaws contest is on right now...going off!
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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The finals sucked though. Not much more boring than watching them let wave after wave go by.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Maybe O Man will post up...
Pretty amazing stuff.
Dorian's wave in the morning before the contest started was incredible.
Massive barrels, crazy wipeouts- all live. Pretty nerve wracking at times.
Definitely different than watching a video where you know the outcome.
Props to the safety crew and the local boys who owned it.
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east side underground
climber
paul linaweaver hilton crk ca
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was skiing most of the day flipped the contest on right when kai lenny and the jet ski driver had a vicious wipeout.....heavy....loved Albe layers double flip off claim in the barrel...classic
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