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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Oct 26, 2015 - 07:55pm PT
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Boca Rio barrels for breakfast, Woodson cracks for lunch-full complement.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 14, 2015 - 08:20am PT
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I have been hanging out Playa Guiones Costa Rica for the past week with my lovely girlfriend. I have scored everything from wonderful yoga at the Nosara Yoga Institute with my gal to 5' -12' warm water surf.
Got a buddy from Cardiff meeting me today. We are thinking of getting a boat charter out of Tamarindo to go surf Witches Rock
PURE VIDA !!!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nov 14, 2015 - 11:25am PT
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Pretty envious, Tommy.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Nov 14, 2015 - 04:36pm PT
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Good day on the North Shore of Oahu.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 24, 2015 - 03:46pm PT
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I have enjoyed pretty much all aspects of climbing in the past 30 years. Free climbing to a modest level, Big walls, Alpine/Mountaineering routes and of coarse steep Ice. Spent a bunch of money on travel, time and the wide range of gear needed to experience these disciplines of climbing. I must say that at this point in my life the pure enjoyment and level of fun that surfing (and skydiving for that matter) gives me, is considerably different than what i am getting out of climbing. Don't get me wrong I will climb till the day i die on some level and will all ways enjoy it. But man the surf in Costa Rica really paid back dollar for dollar in comparison to a international trip equivalent with climbing.
PURE VIDA!!!
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Nov 30, 2015 - 08:58pm PT
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^^^^ That is great ekat. I grew up in and graduated from Incline High. For me the surf was never a consideration to be ridden. The Hatchett Bros I believe surfed the lake a couple times back then just to say. Great photo!
Some more Central America love in honor of the adventurous Aussie mate's that had problems in Sinaloa Mex. Surf on Brothers!!!!!
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east side underground
climber
paul linaweaver hilton crk ca
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Nov 30, 2015 - 09:26pm PT
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some more central american love....bad sh#t can happen anywhere...
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east side underground
climber
paul linaweaver hilton crk ca
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hey ekat want to surf with a view of the forest? two words .....lost coast....but watch out for the landlord
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Ekat/Eastside-
Quality rock close to surf:
Is there any coatal Granite above Santa Cruz? I surf IB to Oceanside and love the close proximity of granite to the surf. Once you get towards San Clemente and North it seems like all you get is dirt clods.
I surfed Eureka before I was climbing and don't have a recollection of the rock.
I think Warbler dropped a hint on rock near surf in baja. My guess would be Catavina area, perhaps Conoas?
I know people climb near Lover's Beach in Cabo but I remember that rock being pretty gtitty (pre climbing days) plus too far.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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[photo[photoid=437191]id=437189]
The gear-
I've tweaked out so hard on my surf quiver that I started designing my own boards on a C&C program.
9-2 TJ Sloughs Gun
6-8 Blacks model
I started climbing 2 1/2 years ago and putting together a rack and all the gear is equally tweaky.
Either pursuit, individually can lead to an angry wife and no savings, put them together- not good.
BTW- Climbing on hold- this weekend will be good!
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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I'm too lame to get all the attachments together
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Contractor. Especially on the big gun (regular Blacks gun is more personal taste), shift the foil to thicker under your chest. So for instance, the 2 feet forward of Center should be thicker (not by a whole lot about 1/8 inch max at least) than the 2 feet behind center with the thickest part of the board forward of center. The rest can be a double ender, or have the tail slightly thicker. Works especially well with a relaxed entry rocker (just make sure there is a little roll vee in the nose after glassing): fast and paddles like crazy. Like the width! Especially for the Sloughs.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Skcreidc-
I'm on board with your comments (no pun intended). I can tell you know what's up!
I weigh 155 and have surfed a 6-6 at Blacks well beyond double overhead so the 6-8 with extra liters will get me to the 7-6 I have.
I did roll some V on the nose of the 9-2. All the Sloughs guys say the same thing- good call. I also eliminated concave past the front foot but there a slight single concave starting mid board transitioning to some crazy double concave and a V out the tail. It's a little wide for Todos but it's made for Sloughs and Little Makaha.
I used to Cary the thickness up under my chest but I've started to pack the volume in the center of the board and blade out the nose and tail for better rebound. It definitely helps on my short boards but may not work on a 9-2 (my fist gun shape).
These programs harmonize the curves so well.
Do you hand shape?
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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So contractor, lets see if I can keep this short.
Skcreidc's bullshit "theory" of modern rhino-chaser foils (foil being thickness flow generally along the stringer)
Goal: volume/rocker to get you in that wave before you get launched, and in a manner in which you do not pearl on the way down.
When paddling a 9, 10, or 11' board, you are not paddling over the spot near which you will stand to ride thing. You are pretty far forward of it, and when you hop to your feet you actually jump back a fair amount. If you doubt this, take a 9' longboard out and belly paddle the thing into a few waves. Basically, the meat of the board is forward for better paddling. This has two extra added benefits; first, when you hop up the volume is slightly forward of your stance making it harder to pearl no matter what the wave is throwing at you (all shorts of wind chop and varying degrees of double and triple ups ect.) Second, because the volume is slightly forward, you can lower the entry rocker even more (taking into account the bottom of the board) to allow for even easier paddle-ins and shorter boards. Why shorter boards on big waves? Well, because no matter what size wave you are on, man-handling a 10 or 11 foot board that is 3.5+ inches thick is no easy task. The main use of a board that size is just to get you in the wave. After that, you'd wish the thing would shrink a bit for riding the wave. Ask the tow-in guys.
There are actually more benefits to this kind of foil in a gun, but these are the "big" ones....maybe another day if anybody actually gives a damn.
I've done both machine and hand. You have to be on the cutters for machine cuts. Things can go out of specs fast and I always ordered my cuts an inch longer so I could fix stuff in the templates, rocker, and foil. Right now just handshapes.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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.maybe another day if anybody actually gives a damn.
I do but dont post on this guys thread cuzz he kind ....
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Nice outline!
Yep, that all makes sense.
I'll update on how it goes and thanks for the insight- I love this shet!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Way to geek out on this sh#t guys.
I never needed a gun.
My step up was a 6'6 Midget Smith(rip), still with a squash.
I hardly ever rode it- occasionally at Park, and one memorable Blacks day, probably recounted somewhere in this thread.
I also had a 7'4 Rick Rock/Watermans Guild pin. Now that board worked but again, rarely rode it- I can remember one post storm night at absolutely macking Uppers, just me and Herbie in the water. Probably the only time I ever got a little scared at the point.
Being primarily a Trestles surfer I rode short squat boards no matter how big it got.
I never really dug standard shortboards.
Now that I live in the desert and only surf a few times a year if that, I dream of a lifetime trip to Indo and think about what board(s) I would need or take. For barreling waves and something I could ride in a variety of conditions, I'd probably order a stock Black Beauty.
The boards I have left:
5'11x21 Xanadu pop out keel- stashed in San Clemente. Main rider. Turns Sano into Trestles.
9'2 Hobie round pin pro hand-me-down. Not high performance and not traditional,good glass , just right for glassy micro peelers.
5'11 Mayhem RNF twin with trailer. The closest I have to a traditional shortboard in dims and glassing. Can switch between this and the Xanadu easily. More for the beachbreak.
6'0 Tyler Deuce prototype, "The Exterminator". Right before fishes became too popular, this was my rider. People thought it was a knee board. Lighter glass, not clunky rails, epic glass on keels. Just plain and excellent. By the time it was done, fishes were all the rage but they were all to heavy, super expensive, blinged out pinstripes, and just a little lame- all fad, not rad, made me sad. And every dork had one. They became the new longboard, and the focus of hate at the marquee spots I surfed. That's when I got the pop out keel, f*#k it. It was light and stiff and white and almost indestructible. But I must apologize to you, Chris, someone who actually shapes, and even you, contractor, and your cnc's....still more soul than a surftech.
6'3x21 70's Gabe Garduque Hawaiian Spirit single fin, small swallow, with "jets"- early channels. F*#king loved riding that board at Lowers...oh god, to bottom turn on that thing again...just before retro got super popular.
7'2 70's pin, triple stringer. Wallhanger.
And contractor- your question about rock/surf....
Rainbow/OSide was the best combo.
There's Rincon/Gibraltar
Malibu Creek/Secos
Some climbing in SLO and Big Sur too.
But Rainbow and afternoon RJ....awww man....f*#king miss those days.
My last surf....score.
Weepy to say it was a year ago.....boooooohoooooo
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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drljefe; wrt Black Beauty boads:
Have you ridden one, or do you just like the looks?
and
What length would you get?
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