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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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TRIP REPORT
Valhalla Diary pt. 2: Angel Wings - Valkyrie (V 5.11+/5.12-)
by Vitaliy M.
Friday August 7, 2015 3:58pm
During the not-at-all restful rest day, Luke and I discussed our options for the remainder of our stay. My preference was to attempt a direct new route on The Prism. His was the Valkyrie - a recently established V 5.12a which goes up the Angel Wings proper Both options seemed tough and preferably followed by a rest day. Since we had three days left, one of which is reserved for a 17 mile hike out, rest day was not an option. We had to compromise, AKA suffer - climb the Valkyrie first, wake up as early as possible on the following day, move camp to the Lone Pine Creek cut off and climb a new route on the Prism. Fortunately sussing out plans at camp is not as hard as executing them...
.Valkyrie takes the right prominent buttress in the middle of the formation. A really aesthetic line.
Hamilton Dome and other granite domes as seen from the last pitches of Valkyrie
Luke in an exposed chimney high on the route
Slot canyon on the approach to Hamilton Lakes
Valkyrie seemed like a great way to top out Angel Wings. It follows a beautiful buttress on the SE face for 2,000 feet - an intimidating line you stare at from the pit toilet at Hamilton Lakes. The climbing stays sustained in 5.10 range for majority of the climb, with tough 5.11 pitches and a single 5.12a. We split the route into blocks of three with Luke getting the first. For a route that has likely seen less than 6 ascents, the quality was good and most of the pitches were clean. The exposure reminded both of us of something that belongs on El Cap - BIG AND STEEP.
The rack in the topo was spot on and the route finding was straight forward for the most part. After onsighting a few other 5.11s Luke got one of the mental cruxes of the route - a 5.11 pitch with difficult face climbing ways above the last bolt. Following the pitch, I was not sure I could have led that one if it was a lead of mine. But with his beta spraydown and a top rope I was able to climb it without a fall.
What I liked about the climb is the variety: well protected face, some runouts, hand cracks, offwidths and laybacks. What I did not like is the garbage bolts in a few spots. It was mostly well bolted with stainless 3/8ths, but there were more than a few that will not last, or are already not safe.
The day was partially cloudy but not rainy. The Angels were on our side...
Lower Hamilton Lake
Start of the route - Luke is on top of the 1st pitch
Me on an awesome splitter. Pitch 4, or somewhere around there...
About half way up the route something fell out of the bag we were hauling through difficult sections. "Yo, seems like I dropped your shoe!" said Luke. I could not help myself, but laugh. The descent will not be as comfortable. But if I had to scramble, I would feel more comfortable right? Glass half full! After the news, it was also time for me to lead the 5.12- crux. By lead, I mean you go off the belay ledge, clip a high bolt, down-climb and do the crux traverse on a semi-top rope. Usually, I do not try the crux over and over if I can't get it the first time, but feeling close to getting the move and being close to the belay I went back multiple times before sticking the move. If I was climbing with someone other than Luke, I might have not tried as hard, but his positive energy and encouragement pushed me to do my best. He followed the pitch clean first try (not a surprise) and I got owned like a mule on the next pitch - a physical OW. The route finding past the wide part was not obvious and I was not able to get in the desired pro to continue up a flaring groove. In addition I had incredible amount of rope drag, so I asked to be lowered and back cleaned several pieces of gear before climbing back up and making several thought provoking moves to the belay ledge.
Me following fun face climbing
Hanging out on a cool ledge most of the way up the wall. Hamilton Lake in the background.
Trying to figure out how to get into that corner with a small left crimp and shitty foot jam level with my crotch. After many many failed attempts I got it right. Leading 5.12 on a top rope is semi possible muhuhaha :)
Next pitch was mine, but the little coward within was begging I offer the lead to my stronger partner. "SHUT THE F*** UP," said I, "It is only 5.10 and you can deal with another 140 ft." According to the topo there was an "incredible splitter" on this pitch, how can I say no to that?....but also there is a chimney. When Luke got to the ledge he knew I was worked and offered to lead. I said I can continue as planned. Even though the "incredible splitter hands" turned out to be a short section you mostly stem in the back of a vibrating flake, the 5.10 section was not hard and the chimney above it was also mellow. Luke swong straight into the next pitch and found own mental crux of the route. He followed the chalk patch that Mike took on the day when it was raining. While he was dealing with complicated route finding and linking the two pitches to get us to the top of this beast, I was dreaming of Ramen and tuna. Even though I brought what seemed to be a NIAD snack bag, I managed to run out.
Luke starting the last pitch on Valkyrie - Cherubim Dome in the background
Hamilton Lake
Hamilton Lake from high up on Angel Wings
Insert joke of your choice. Also, this is our summit photo, far below the summit. We looked a lot worse on top! :)
The patch Luke followed was not for those with lack of mental strength. VERY R, and likely pretty X. When we topped out I congratulated Luke with his ability to keep it together. Both of us were amazed with Mike's ability to do this section in a full on rain, but Mike freed multiple El Cap routes and has mental strength of a rock ninja, so no biggie. Rest of the night was spent hiking back to camp and dreading the next morning...
TO BE CONTINUED :)
Trip Report Views: 293
Vitaliy M. About the Author
Vitaliy M. is an annoying gym climber from San Francisco.
Comments
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Timid TopRope
Social climber
the land of Pale Ale
Aug 7, 2015 - 05:23pm PT
Enjoyed 1 and 2. Did you find your shoe?
Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
Aug 7, 2015 - 05:35pm PT
I'm really enjoying these TR's from Angel Wings! All I can do right now is live vicariously. Keep it coming!
PotatoHead
Trad climber
Nunya,ID
Aug 7, 2015 - 05:37pm PT
Gettin'er done...well done lads!! The Sierra granite is sooooo effing sick
Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
Aug 7, 2015 - 05:44pm PT
That OW after the "crux" pitch you described was definitely pretty hard and insecure. So flared... The "crux" pitch, on the other hand, was most definitely neither 5.12 nor a real crux of the route. You must have been tired if that's even possible... Nice TR!
MikeL
Social climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 7, 2015 - 05:48pm PT
Beautiful. TFPU.
(I don't even see how you clipped the bolt for the semi-top rope!)
sharperblue
Mountain climber
San Francisco, California
Aug 7, 2015 - 08:25pm PT
wow - that's some serious love - really gorgeous and intimidating route and feature - nice work as always! superb photos too - really appreciate how you go out of your way to find the sweetest angles for the camera
Larry Nelson
Social climber
Aug 7, 2015 - 11:17pm PT
Excellent. And the photography is superb
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
Aug 8, 2015 - 05:54am PT
Peavey PowerSlidePeavey PowerSlide
Credit: Willoughby
Thank you for taking us up there with you! That is an inspiring chunk of rock! Wow !
I 'lost' the first draft of this post. And this second try is not so good. Stupid shablet, this thing. This computer Tablet, a Mac product, bought used, that must have been dropped, can drive one to the edge!
I loved this write up & the pictures and mean no disrespect
Peavey PowerSlide
I post these pictures from small rock hell to remind people of how lucky they are.
Wait, that's not not Raven Crest, - jamming guitar though.
That looks like an awesome Power Slide! Thanks Willoughby! I'm leaving the Double dose up there!
I almost never post Choss, unless I say it's bad, it's really good.(I guess that might be in the eye of the beholder though) Sometimes it is hard to tell.
This was of course a great write up and it made me remember that as the first summer passes with out a Delaney handshake, I remember Brian & Richie Copland as well .
Here's to the memory of climbers - to two guys who would have loved this route I like to think that both ride with the Valkyrie in Valhalla.
Credit: Gnome Ofthe Diabase
[Edit this Photo]
thats better,(?) but the sweet 'PowerSlide' stays!(twice)
I'll pull it, if you pull yours from the Good 'Doc's' memorial thread . . . Please.
Edit
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 8, 2015 - 02:11am PT
Fun report and beautiful photos - thanks for sharing.
Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
Aug 8, 2015 - 04:25am PT
Your on a roll vitality,
Nice!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2015 - 01:44pm PT
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Little kids have come to the Lodge for years and been inspired to try rock climbing. The Mtn. Room has a legacy of inspiration for several generations of rock rats.
They grow up so quickly and the next thing you know they've got a general delivery address in YNP and are living la vida quatro.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2015 - 02:32pm PT
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YES!!!! I made it to the Ditch yesterday and am so glad I went. The day was just an awesome day for August--cooled down, lots of clouds, and the weekend mob had not yet descended.
Roll the film, Mousie!
I was Jonesing for something like this trip.
The construction on the new rock shed has been halted for the summer, pretty much. The heavy trucks were hauling off loads of slide material to the Mariposa landfill over near Boo Dawg's place off Hwy 49 this spring, but the summer tourist traffic suffered, as you might imagine.
Besides which, the engineers are now having to drill to try to find solid bedrock to anchor the shed foundations, so it's just as well. It's kind of stalled the project anyway.
End of TR, pt. I.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2015 - 04:04pm PT
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Ho-kay! I got my pan y cafe, and I'm on the road once more! Ai-ai-ai!!!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Riley is a real scarfer, as you can see.
I ended up down at the El Cap Bridge a bit later.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2015 - 04:32pm PT
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Going back to the mall in Yosemite Village a moment...back-tracking.
The clouds were constantly shifting all day, adding to the difficulty of focusing with a lens whose gears are stripped and won't focus automatically.
The tripod I hauled paid for its weight, believe me! It was windy and the solid base helped me to get the best focus. It gets hard to do when you have to look at the images on the screen and they are faint because of glare or if you are pointing up at a sharp angle. It's why setting up in a shady spot is so important, I've found; it's either that or carry a shroud for viewing the image when focusing. Doing it through the viewfinder is hit or miss for old blind guys.
All I can say is that my hat is off to Tom Evans, ElCap Pics, for his talent and his experience. I'd also like to thank him again for his coaching and his friendship. Salud, Captain Tom!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2015 - 04:48pm PT
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An old-timey postcard for Tom Evans.And now back to El Cap Meadow & Bridge.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2015 - 05:36pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
I've got you in my gun sights
I've got my love gun loaded with high-speed film
When I hit the shutter there won't be no misses
I'm the big bad hunter, babe
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2015 - 08:50pm PT
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That's an extremely impressive photo of the bay, zBrown.
Did you make it?
I'll bid two no Trump.
The BV and Tower and El Cap were all taken through the shuttle's tinted windows. They were fairly clean.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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All I can say regarding that photo is I did make it appear on the ST.
It really is an amazing photo., I'll track down who took it.
When I started college, playing bridge was a popular avocation, I never played it though. Likewise Hambone and Tschogl (another of my buddies who made it into the pros). Similarly, the Zep. Likewise Zepparella.
Is it OK to say white power here?
When that levee breaks is there really any place left to stay?
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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zBrown
Ice climber
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I cannot remember what I did to find that photo. I need to sleep on it.
Meanwhile
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2015 - 12:45am PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]Once again, it's time to remind you all that the Official Sacrosanct and Serious-as-heck SCRABBLE Dictionary does not list "BRIDGER" as a valid word.
This is the Unabridged Version of the OSSSD, of course.
ABUTMENT
a structure built to support the lateral pressure of an arch or span (like in the ends of a bridge).
I like the SCRABBLE Dictionary's take:
All you need is one definition to clinch the word-in-question's legitness.
Step across the street and stay dry. Another bus will be here in twenty minutes.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2015 - 01:34am PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
It's too bad Hambone did not get to spend more time around the rim, eh?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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All you need is one definition to clinch the word-in-question's legitness. Try as I might I kept nodding off
I did find It funny that Ron can't corn kernels c*#k his gun or turn a head when hearing a sound.
When our new bitch, she- dog hears the car noise she cocks her pointed eared head.
See not that I can't understand,
given our combined immaturity and penchant for name calling.
Some words break down walls as well as inflame ire among some prudish set.
Hey now that's a neat trick! Only at dusk or it may have been dawn
I read about
I can't recall?.
Some thing went something like this when discussing living in a mountain town,
Ho, now I ree, ember - in Fritz's thread - one and only - about the old women who burned garbage no matter what.
It was rude and entitled (the point of the thread) in a densely populated town
at the base of much bigger hills, than I live around,
in some place where inversion took place.
She burned garbage in her fire place against the pleading of neighboring folks
who had to breath and smell the hanging acridity it was no sweet smoke, this.
I imagine towns people see films of toxic mixes form on kitchen windows,
then more close to what was written - she was four feet long but bent over two three.
We worked together to rake up leaves, me a standing upright on the fan rake
and her, at near 90, bent as she was in the perfect location to help gather
the leaves, we spoke about whatever, for her age she was wonderfully informed,
on a wide range of topics and would c*#k her head at new information
to try to look in my eye, but mostly we worked and talked but not eye to eye.
We never looked each other in the eye.'. C I can't say it there but where I said it it above,
it printed as typed?!
Sorry but as I was mid sentence the no longer forgotten thread popped to mind
and I tapped this out . . .
It. looks like you can' say some thing like - the biggest Cocksman,
with the biggest of Balzac, for send in' fresh Sierra granite, of all those around
this Mexican food truck is that young buck
who's name dose really rhyme with Italy. - M. . . .( I will look his name up so as not Ef up the spellin' ) That amazing crusher & dream weaver !. .Vitaliy!
Who I again thank for all and for one thing more total cool good on ya dude you fvcking Rock!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2015 - 07:53am PT
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"Girl, we need you to cross that snow slope. Normally, I wouldn't ask you, but it's like this..." Have a good Sunday.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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Moon celebrating El Cinco de Mayo
Supermoon rising over UC Berkeley Sather Tower and International House, May 5. Photo: Ira Serkes
the author of that other foto has chosen to remain anony_mouse
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