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this just in
climber
north fork
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Apr 16, 2011 - 11:09am PT
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Your hideaway? Hadn't seen you up there until last year. The word that's out got you up there so it's funny hearing you say it's your hideout. I'm with you that it sucks to see more people up there, but shuteye deserves all the attention it gets.
Bitter sweet.
Edit: Tork are you quoting someone or is that how you feel? I get it Tom must of said that to you. You guys crack me up. It's climbing not drama.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Apr 16, 2011 - 08:16pm PT
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So I live in Sacramento and I am trying to explore new areas (and break my habbit of never driving further south than Yosemite valley). Last summer I checked out Shuteye using the new Norcal road trip guide (great job!). I'm thinking of driving south in the next week or two. The Shaver Lake/Tollhouse area looks to be one candidate.
I've been slowed by injury, but would be looking to climb up to 5.9 multi-pitch, up to well protected mid 5.10 red points cragging, and up to 5.11- topropes whether it is crack/face/slab.
I don't mind hiking/exploring but wouldn't be in shape for anything over about thirty minutes. In addition to the Slater guide, I have the old Southern Yosemite Spencer guide. Are there better guides available? Anyone have suggestions for routes or other climbs in the area (having not climbed any of the low elevation stuff, I'm not set on any given spot or even the Shaver Lake area)? Or any other info for a newbie to the area? Is this year's late snow going to be an issue?
Cheers.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Apr 16, 2011 - 08:30pm PT
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Right about the quote and right about the drama.
Kinda hard to ignore the bs hate/psycho mail.
I really just want to climb.
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Slater
Trad climber
Central Coast
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Apr 17, 2011 - 11:30am PT
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Hey August, Grahm Doe has a Shuteye guidebook coming out (someday right Grahm?). We threw a tree at his snowmobile to try and speed up the process but it didn't work. It's fixed already...
The snow will be too heavy for Shuteye probably until June.
Shaver area... Tollhouse Rock is a ton of fun. There is stuff in the Nor Cal guide, and for Dogma Dome as well. A complete comprehensive guidebook for Tollhouse will be out in about 3 more months. But there is plenty of info out there. Hope that helps!
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Apr 18, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
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Yea, I wasn't looking to go to Shuteye, just wanted to check out something at a lower elevation (and my partner didn't want to go the valley and do the same old get-in-shape moderates we have been doing for so long).
Cool that a new guide book is coming out soon (although I've learned to generally take that with a grain of salt). The Norcal guide contains plenty to get me started at Tollhouse and the "Tollhouse this weekend" thread that popped up has me looking forward to checking out the area.
I saw the pics of the snow mobile. Having seen the previous pics of him catching air, can't say the pic of the snowmobile being dragged away is that much of a shock (glad it won't interfere with progress on the next guide release ;-).
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Apr 18, 2011 - 02:34pm PT
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random awesomeness.....
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Apr 18, 2011 - 03:25pm PT
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Jeff,
Hope you had a good weekend - I was home and sick - ug.
Elbow is progressing :)
kev
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Apr 18, 2011 - 04:38pm PT
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glad to hear you're on the mend Kev.
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Apr 18, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
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Sup kev. Hope you're doing swell. Mend up!
@ Jeff -
How do you hijack a wall?
I'll send you a mailing address soon. Thinking the best source comes IESS- FYA.com. Its a husband/wife gig.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Apr 18, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
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Im 6 weeks or so post surgery and doing well. PT is going well and I hope to be climbing in 6 weeks - albeit 5.easy but still.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Apr 18, 2011 - 05:34pm PT
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PT is going well and I hope to be climbing in 6 weeks - albeit 5.easy but still.
I might be able ta drag ya laddie! I need more leads anyhow. HEAL!!!
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Apr 18, 2011 - 05:49pm PT
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cool - another member to join the 5.easy club!
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Apr 19, 2011 - 01:02am PT
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cool - another member to join the 5.easy club!
Speak fer yourself! Anyone wanna join the "5.10+-Scared-Out-Yo-Mind-And-Look-Like-An-Absolute-Foo!" club?
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Apr 19, 2011 - 01:23am PT
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Haha, I'm a well established member of that club ;)
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Apr 19, 2011 - 11:52am PT
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Great to hear your recovering Kev! A buddy of mine has also been dealing with health related stuff. When we talk about climbing and coming off the couch he says he'll be climbing out from under the couch. ;-)
Leos snow report:
"April 1 snow survey shows we are at 175%; above the '98 winter by 2 points. '95 was 209%.
The record year '69 was 267%
Lots of good ridin' still left...."
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Apr 19, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
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Thanks Grahm! under the couch - yeah that might be more like it, but if it's without pain then it'll be awesome.
I picked a good time to due it give the weather this year. Glad you're getting out on the snowmobiles - just don't wreck anymore, okay?
kev
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Apr 19, 2011 - 01:48pm PT
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to me)
> sounds like our hideaway has already been blown and you're inviting friends out there, kind of a bummer> > > oh well that's how it goes
All I can do is laugh.
You left out The Way We Roll on the Runnel Vision Wall
Jeff -
Would love to hear the FULL story on this. God knows how I love to stir the Shuteye hornets nest. Makes for great "historical" info for future guidebook revisions.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Apr 19, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
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Don't forget every story has two sides. And possibly the FULL story will have a third side that comes in to play, when it is revealed that the disputed crag was climbed 15 years prior. :)
And Justin has got a great story about stirring a hornets nest!
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mooch
Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
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Apr 20, 2011 - 06:30pm PT
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'Course, I asked JEFF.....not any other side. Thanks for shedding the light though Nater.
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Apr 20, 2011 - 08:52pm PT
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Here is a story for you,
Once upon a time a finger was poised over a delete key but wavered...
It all began with an unimaginable flash into existence. Countless galaxies and solar systems were flung into the vastness and formed over eons. Suns, planets and the like took shape. One planet with just the right cocktail to create life crushed sand into rock. The rocks were thrust up and laid bare by monstrous tectonic forces. Life evolved in complex ways to create humans.
Some of these humans clinging to their ancestral ways choose to cling to the rocks and call it sport. They enjoyed the beauty of the rocks but as humans will do they competed for the rocks yet shared them, they fought one another but also loved, they destroyed and preserved nature at the same time. Some shared their thoughts on internet forums. They helped to build one another up but also bickered and tore one another down. They lied and told truths. Some lurked in the background hoping to read something entertaining.
In the blink of a cosmic eye they were all gone. Time moved on and the rocks were eroded back to sand while new ones were exposed. The sun slowly died devouring the planet and its solar system. It was reborn again as a small black hole. The universe continued to forever expand into a vast and unknowable existence.
Pondering the beauty and absurdity of it all... the finger instead clicked “post this reply“.
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