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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Feb 13, 2009 - 07:03pm PT
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"I almost got electrified getting this pic above Gray "
Ummm... don't do that, Jeff. It is HIGHLY not recommended. Don't ask how I know. :(
Also, I've found that Richard and Mark's aid routes are pretty bold and stout too. Really nice guys.
matt - yeah, I should probably spend some more time with the SSCA folks. It's been a while. Picked up a bulldog from Eppie last year and have been anxious to get out and learn the tricks. Was thinking about replacing some bolts in Courtright this year with my partner Blaine.
Damn! There's some fine looking stuff in here! Love the last batch of pics, Graham.
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Feb 13, 2009 - 10:46pm PT
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Since you bros is in the knows - curious as to who among you laid out the bolt walks on the third tier of The Balls?
Curious because whoever set these things must be 7 foot tall cause the lead-off hangers are way the hell up there...and there's NO room to drop back if you blow that first move!!!!!!
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 13, 2009 - 10:50pm PT
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Wow! can I come?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 14, 2009 - 03:48am PT
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Crazy Horse's pic...
Tor, Munge, Crazy Horse, and ? (doh, the mental acuity ain't what it used to be. Sorry.)
Tiki-Jer, did you take the pic? memory is shot for sure.
This was after topping out on Chiquito. We had started on Tootsie, and connected to The Acolyte I believe based on the notes I wrote down from CH.
Which formations are in the background in the pic? Shuteye?
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Feb 14, 2009 - 11:52am PT
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Hey Mungie, Yeah I did take that photo. The guy on the right was a visiting climber from France. I think his name is Benoit.
Never saw him again after that trip.
You guys climbed Tootsie and Matt and I did Jigsaw.
I helped him on the rebolting of that route.
It was a project that was done at that event.
Got to climb the 2nd pitch on the old 1/4" bolts w/ leeper hangers, Crazy Horse followed the pitch after rebolting with new stainless.
If I'm not mistaken the 2pitch had 3 bolts. Old school 5.8 and run.
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Feb 14, 2009 - 11:55am PT
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Oh Yeah...........in the extreme background you have the Eagle Beaks too.
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Feb 14, 2009 - 11:58am PT
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One more thing...I remember Jack Delk telling me that there is a nest of Rattlers up on top of Chiquito. Not too far from where we were standing. Maybe one of them got Benoit??
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Feb 14, 2009 - 01:04pm PT
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Clint,
On Elagant Inclineations, your topo shows one bolt at the anchor on pitch 3 after the crux, is that all you get or is ther gear or a knob as well?
Jeff
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 14, 2009 - 04:00pm PT
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Jeff,
I think the way to anchor there is to clip that bolt and the next one as well, then climb back down to the first one. I don't remember seeing gear there. Maybe on the first ascent they led to the second bolt after the traverse and then realized there was too much rope drag, so they used both to anchor.
I was just trying to reproduce Spencer's topo, which I believe is close to Higgins' original topo. When you rappel the route, you go straight from (4) to (2) (or even (1) ). We did at a bolt at (5), using my own bolt and hanger.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 14, 2009 - 04:00pm PT
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thx Ger and Clint for the IDs
heh, I have written in my guide book: "snakes" on top of the dome because of that story.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Feb 14, 2009 - 05:45pm PT
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Ricky,
If I'm correct in my guess of where you are talking about - those were done by Jerry & Sigrid Anderson and a few by our resident crazy horse.
A friend goofin' off at the Balls.
The softer side of Chiquito, by tiki-jer. Climbers starting up Jigsaw Puzzle and The Acolyte.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 14, 2009 - 07:57pm PT
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A few photos:
Debbie on p2 of Eine Kleine Nachtmusik, High Eagle
Mike on Paradise Lost, Shangri-La
Dan on the summit boulder of Shangri-La, The Balls in left background
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randomtask
climber
North fork, CA
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Feb 15, 2009 - 06:12pm PT
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bump
-JR
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Feb 15, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
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Clint,
Love that photo of Dan on the summit of Shangrila.
There are some fun routes there, its just way to bad they had to squeeze them so close together. It really shows in the photo of Paradise Lost.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Feb 15, 2009 - 11:00pm PT
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bump...nice pics, Clint...
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Feb 15, 2009 - 11:05pm PT
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the rock on high eagle looks soooo gooood!!!
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Feb 16, 2009 - 10:06pm PT
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Tiki-jer - this is the formation I was referring to -
Close up of the third tier
Did someone say chicken heads -
Charming Dawn tops out -
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Feb 16, 2009 - 10:49pm PT
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Pitch three of Wanderlust on Gray Eagle, loaded with chicken heads.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 16, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
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Anyone want to do the Obelisk?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!