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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Jan 19, 2012 - 11:13am PT
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Survival...**
The climb on the massive right wall of Watkins is Escape From Freedom V, 5.11c, A1.
FA: Bruce Morris & Urmas Franosch, 6/28/92 - 7/4/92
18 pitches, plenty of 5.10
The topo indicates another route to the right called Golden Dawn.
mucci... Thanks for the FSA info. Way to go Paul!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 19, 2012 - 11:28am PT
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how come you like to stand in straps and not climb survivor? muhammad disapproves
+1 for gang bang though
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
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Vitaliy, yes I like to "climb". I was only good to 11+ or 12- trad even when I was "good". Then I strap on wall gear, multiple ropes and a little hunger, exhaustion and dehydration and my free climbing motivation would drop.
WTF, you don't understand the ninja way of the aiders?
For example, on the Watkins route to the right, I immediately start wondering if there's a way to clean aid the 5.11 parts.......
I thought I'd climb with you, but not if you don't understand that sometimes aid is the superior technique....HA!!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 19, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
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I thought you would keep me warm in Ouray but you shut me down and I ended up going to Hyalite since you wouldn't keep me warm in Ouray. All those kazakh girls stayed single and without US and A visas too. Ninjas do not treat kazakh girls like that yo!
How many routes are there on Whatkins? Dose u know?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
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You crack me up ini !
Don't worry, we'll make it up to the mladshaya syestra someday....
Apparently there are at least two? full length routes, and room for more.
You ready for more? Better learn to aid climb ini!!!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jan 19, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
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At least 8 routes.
Nothing to see here folks....
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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Mucci, 8 like what, where, how?? Let's see some pix or topos or something!
SuperT only lists S Face. It's not like I expect Supertopo to have everything but one would think they could be slightly more up to date than SEVEN routes behind the curve!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
What the hell?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 19, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
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You ready for more? Better learn to aid climb ini!!!
meh
but I would love to watch a sunset/sunrise from there, seems like an awesome view of Half Dome and all! Just imagine the over-saturated photos my digital camera could produce...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
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meh
That's cool. Enjoy the sport routes.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 19, 2012 - 03:19pm PT
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Enjoy the sport routes.
I don't usually climb sport routes. Was joking about 'y u standing in straps' hope u and your 'silverback' friends don't take it personal, I love you all to death, the whole gang bang team. : )
Really though a friend and I are starting to learn some aid. I even bough some jumars, aiders, hooks and started practicing..maybe will do a couple of walls in 2012. Nothing too advanced though. Would be cool to get good at this and than try doing some unclimbed remote wall in Himalayas....dreams......
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
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Rock on bro, dreams are for free.
I still dream big and I'm 51, sort of a youngster in some ways and waaay old in others!!
Getting good at aid, even clean aid and a few pins, can make some huge remote things possible. You can be an amazing free climber and still come up against an unclimbed pitch that is well out of your reach.
Some quick aid skills can make the difference between the FA and a huge dangerous retreat..............
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 19, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
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a drill would solve this problem (to learn aid)? Than I can put up own route up whatkins anywhere I want! Maybe I will connect it to a 5.7 hand crack some place so I can tell people I 'climbed' it! Sure it would see a repeat...5.7 c1 grade VI (cuz there would be a lot of bolts to clip) lol
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2012 - 03:41pm PT
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I'll do the second ascent if you put a 5.7 C1 route up Watkins.
Vitaliy's Wet Dreamm VI, 5,7, C1
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 19, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
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You have a few FAs somewhere?
One doesn't have to be young to be young. I have plenty of 'young' friends whose lives are boring as sh#t IMO. Same thing all over. Work mon-fri, bars/clubs fri/sat, same old air head chicks, same ones puke in bathrooms, same ones getting 'in trouble.' May appear fun to some I guess, but to me it seems boring. So don't be like that survival, do our big walls, go squirrel hunting or whatever else you do to stay young...
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
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Fukkin' AAAA Vitaliy, I'm trying to fight the good fight.
Like many silverbacks on here, most of the people that started climbing at the same time I did are long gone from the game.
I can't climb like BITD, but I still pull down reasonably hard and still have ambitions for large/semi-large stuff.
Yes, I have FA's, but no big wall FA's in Yosemite. I've done some early repeats of big things, but I'm not a rock star.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 19, 2012 - 05:13pm PT
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Like many silverbacks on here
Does this 'silverback' term carry a positive or a negative meaning? If I use the 's' word around here will I be trolled by other 'silverbacks?' Or do I need to get to know one well first, and than it would be ok for me to use it?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 19, 2012 - 05:28pm PT
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Depends on if you're pitching or catching
What is your preference?
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 19, 2012 - 05:30pm PT
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U guys should catch up with the internetz and get facebewks, so instead of using the forum, we could actually use the 'chat' option. Not sure if FB will upload those black and white photos many of you post around here, but another reason to buy a digital camera! : )
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2012 - 10:46pm PT
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Damn that was a freekin funny exchange you two!!
Thanks for the nice thought DMT.
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