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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2009 - 12:32pm PT
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Cowpoke at Farley:
Lucander scopes out Carbs and Caffeine, from the traverse on Airy Aria in the Gunks:
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Jun 26, 2009 - 01:08pm PT
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Ah, so Larry, you finally got to Farley! What did you think of it? Did you happen to wander up to look at the trad cracks on the upper tier?
GO
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jun 26, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
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Hi Chiloe, Wish I'd known you were heading to Farley, I would have introduced myself. Hope you enjoyed it. That face always dries quickly after rain, but is an oven in the summer morning heat. The route in the first photo is Ladybuggery, in the second is Salty Dog---both good routes. I particularly like the trad top of Salty.... Alan
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cowpoke
climber
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Jun 26, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
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ugghh = just checked the 10 day forecast...rain, rain, and...wait, wait, don't tell me...thunderstorms.
I'm actually missing the black flies. And, REALLY looking forward to travels later this summer.
I wondered how things went at the gunks, Chiloe. Looks positive!
wander up to look at the trad cracks on the upper tier?
yosemite crack etc. = rivers of seepage that day (and probably most days, these days)
That face always dries quickly after rain, but is an oven in the summer morning heat.
yeah, really is an oven, but: dry.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2009 - 02:19pm PT
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Al, while we've got you on the line -- what's the name of that route just left of Lady Buggery?
Starts with a crux overhang right off the ground, then easier face to the top.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jun 26, 2009 - 03:26pm PT
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Hi Chiloe, Sorry, I was off for awhile---work, you know, always gets in the way!!! The route left of Ladybuggery has 2 starts and 2 names. The start over the overhang is Stinger---for the reason a fellow who used the slot left of the second bolt learned a couple of weeks ago---joining a long line of victims. The start up the easy corner to the left is called Madame Butterfly. They join at about 1/3 height and share the 5.9 finish. The Stinger start is mid-10ish, or, better, V1. When you come back--hopefully in drier conditions--if they ever arrive again--it is really worth checking out the routes on the upper tier--shorter but high quality. The other buttress all have worthwhile routes as well especially after the bird ban is lifted in mid-July, but it really helps to have a "tour guide". Let me know when you are coming again and I'll gladly show you around.And then Rose Ledge, just around the corner,is really my favorite local crag, and also well worth a visit, as is Mormon Hollow near by. I'm off to the UK for a couple of weeks on Tues.--family trip but hopefully I'll get in a few days climbing, but after that I'll pretty much be around.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2009 - 03:37pm PT
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Thanks, Al. It was a long drive for us, but a nice change from the soggy New Hampshire conditions.
I'm hoping our northern crags will dry out sometime this summer, but right now it looks like more
rain. So we might visit Farley again!
We didn't know we should be wary on Stinger.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jun 26, 2009 - 03:56pm PT
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Hi again Chiloe, Like your PIX---what are you shooting with? See my digital camera help post on here. I've got to get a camera before my trip next week, never used digital, total tech-incompetent. Any thoughts?
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Jun 26, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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>> Did you wander up to look at the trad cracks on the upper tier?
> yosemite crack etc. = rivers of seepage that day (and probably most days, these days)
Ah, too bad. Not surprising, though. Maybe you'll get luckier next time. They're really very nice.
GO
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
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Gabe, I'll definitely look at those upper crack climbs if we go back in cool dry weather sometime.
Al, most of my recent photos are super low tech -- a Canon Powershot SD880 or similar. Fits in
pocket, takes much abuse, one-hand operation while the climber still thinks he's on belay.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jun 26, 2009 - 10:22pm PT
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Dittoi on the digital point and shoot for climbing photos poweshot A640. awsome day Up at the Leap yesterday, Jeff and Erica? made it over from NH and did a bunch of fine climbs. the batteries in my P&S were dead so no pictures ;( The lens was open when i took the camera out of the case so suspect that it got turned on somewhow ?? Oh Well....
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jun 29, 2009 - 11:49am PT
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A nice trundle after A 2HR bushwhack!
The point and shoot is lousy for this kind of shot. My 1D Mrk ll n would have been the bomb. I should have shot video with the point and shoot but don't know how to do anything with the video after I shoot it. tried putting one up on youtoub but it was going to take 10hrs.........
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2009 - 02:20pm PT
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So your routes, are they worth that 2-hour bushwhacking approach?
Or is the trundling its own reward? Northeastern crag development tactics would outrage
the Californians, if they knew. ;-)
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jun 29, 2009 - 07:43pm PT
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Eric just pushed that thing off with his foot! Lets just say it has potentual but its a scary place to climb.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Jun 29, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
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Another Farley route, Eye Opener
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Jun 30, 2009 - 10:13am PT
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Actually Dave (or Div), You've got 5 Farley routes in that photo---Eyeopener is the arete, for those who are interested. I'll also take this opportunity to suggest to all Northeastern Supertopians to mark the weekend of Sept. 26/27 on your calendars as the Western Mass Climber's Coalition will be hosting a Climbing Fest at Wendell State Forest--with camping, food, family activities, and, of course, plenty of climbing---including tours of several of our "little-known but deserve to be better-known" crags and boulders. Details are still being worked out but it is sure to be a fun event. Hope to see you all there.
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Jun 30, 2009 - 04:11pm PT
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Thanks Al. Are you going to be around this weekend?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2009 - 05:24pm PT
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OK, noted that on my calendar.
One more pic with a western-Mass theme (Stinger):
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2009 - 07:31pm PT
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The Impermanence of Man's Designs, Part I.
How could they ever have thought this would hold?
Found this 1979 shot in my slide collection the other day.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2009 - 07:32pm PT
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The Impermanence of Man's Designs, Part II.
From this weekend:
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