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Raafie
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Syncros are the current favs. But my throwback to the good ol days. . . . feast your eyes:
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flakyfoont
Trad climber
carsoncity nv
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Jul 12, 2009 - 01:04am PT
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my favorite climbing shoes are the 3 stitch fires I got from Bachar in 1983. They have been resoled 12 times by Tony . I still climb in them currently , althought the last time Tony resoled em 5 years ago he said it would be the last. These shoes have been all over the world with me. they werent the best edging shoes once broken in , but they were my all day never hurt my feet shoes. Some of the rope guns I climb with ask why I still wear these old Chuck Tees . as always but especially now , they have sentimental value to me. I have alot of different brands of shoes for different types of climbing, but these fires will have been the best.
Bill T.
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Iron Mtn.
Trad climber
Corona
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Jul 12, 2009 - 05:07pm PT
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It's a toss between my La Sportiva Kaukulator's (how do the compare to the Acopa JB's?) and my Boreal Ace's.
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wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
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Jul 12, 2009 - 07:22pm PT
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I LOVED my synchros....
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Srbphoto
Trad climber
Kennewick wa
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Jul 13, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
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My favorites:
1) Boreal Jazz w/5.10 rubber - the low top before the Aces. Got them at Wilson's (the Mammoth store) in 1988. They have 6 or 7 resoles.
2)Boreal Ballet - Just a great high top.
3)Fires - fit like chuck taylors but they were my first climbing shoe so I gotta keep them. Fun to bust out when climbing with young people.
4) 5.10 Ascent. Super comfy. like the velcro and the heel. The only problem was the rubber around the toe delaminated right away. I sent them off to the Rubber Room (the only place I ever have my shoes done) to be resoled and it happened the same way. Never had it happen on any other shoe.
5) Boreal Ninjas (green)- soooooo tight. tried to put them on last year (after not wearing them for about 9 years) couldn't get them on. I wonder if it is because I wear a 9 and they are 6 1/2? They used to fit (sort of)
RIP JB
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Tim Camuti
Trad climber
CA
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Oct 14, 2009 - 05:54pm PT
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I just brought my 5.10 Lynx out of retirement while I was resoling my 5.10 Ascents (with Barry's Resolers, he did a FANTASTIC job). The Lynx are by far my favorite shoe- 16 years climbing in them now. All day comfortable, can be fit tight enough, they smear very well and edge well enough for me to onsight 5.10+ granite face. Comfort and performance in one package, what more could I ask for?
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spinner
Boulder climber
CA
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Nov 20, 2010 - 12:42am PT
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I love my Mythos. I'm on my 2nd pair with a few resoles on each. They are great all around shoe.
Just recently got the 5.10 team shoe and I love it too. If it didn't kill my feet I'd wear it for more than 5 minutes at a time.
I also climb in Sportiva Katanas. I use them when I want a little more performance than the Mythos but still want some comfort.
Has anyone heard anything about the new five ten blackwing? From what I've seen it looks amazing.
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Grayarea
Trad climber
CA
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Nov 20, 2010 - 12:52am PT
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My first pair of green Ace's after wearing the standard fire ballets for yrs!Improved my climbing by a whole grade! Had 1 tight pair and 1 loose pair.
Had 3 pairs of Mythos all different sizes, they have been nice.
Now I have the LA sportiva version of the all Day marathon, The trad master! super comfy, nice OW show, Can wear all day, and my toes are still smiling at beer time
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Rudder
Trad climber
Long Beach, CA
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Nov 20, 2010 - 01:52am PT
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(circa 1980) EBs... had the green korean rock climbing shoes, RRs, Asolo Canyons?, et al before my EBs... but EBs were the first shoe I really liked.
(circa 1990) La Sportiva Megas (the ones from the early 90s, not the later ones) fit my feet perfect and edged like no others. Loved 'em.
(circa 2000) 5.10 Newtons
(circa 2010) La Sportiva TC Pros. My favorite shoe of all time?
I've purchased alot of shoes. But, those are the real standouts for me.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Nov 20, 2010 - 02:38am PT
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After 52 years of climbing, I've pretty much lost count of how many pairs of shoes I went through, but sitting here trying to reconstruct them sequence was fun!
Starting in 1959: At least 5 pr. Kronhofers, 1 pr. Cortinas (they really sucked,didn't fit my foot shape), 2 pr. Kletter Spiders (not too bad for edging or aid), 1 pr RR Blue boots (arrgh!), and 2 pr. PA's, 3 or 4 pr. RR Verappes (excellent shoe for face climbing and thin cracks), and finally 4 pr. Mariacher's. I recently acquired another 2 pr. mariacher's that I had resoled. I still have a pr. of Boreal Green Aces, and a pr. of Boreal Ballet's. Recent acquisitions before I managed to get the new (to me) Mariacher's: Sportiva Mythos (excellent friction shoe and slab climbing) that I find pretty comfortable; not stiff enough for my tastes. I also bought a pr. of TC Pros, but have only worn them once before the weather turned bad. I also just bought a pr. of Sportiva Tradmasters, and my first impression is that they are "the second coming" of the Mariacher, albiet in a low-cut format.
All time favorites: RR Verappes, Mariacher's, and possibly the Sportiva Tradmasters. I never gave the Boreal Aces a real chance, and I still have them "near new" condition.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Nov 20, 2010 - 02:38am PT
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chanting.. TC Pros! TC Pros! TC Pros!
(I am gonna buy 5 pair to lay away for when Sportiva discontinues them. Years in the future, when you guys are all lamenting how you loved them BITD, I will still be dancing up granite in them. Good plan, eh?)
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Nov 20, 2010 - 02:42am PT
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The TC Pros are nice for the cracks,
but a big
AWWWWOOOOOOOOO!!!
to the Coyotes for the best all-around!
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Nov 20, 2010 - 02:54am PT
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Aaaa! what the hell is that thing?
get it away from me!
;^)
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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Nov 20, 2010 - 03:04am PT
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These are my favorite so far...
Aces by Boreal
"all" of my Acopa shoes (John really did have a talent for shoes.)
Plus my 5.10 Moccasins
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2012 - 01:42pm PT
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Soon to add the Muira VS, curious how this will perform.
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hb81
climber
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Sorry to hijack the thread for a moment:
can someone comment on how the fit and the sizing of the TC Pro
compares to the Miura? The Miura fits me very well, but I can't wear
the Mythos for example. (they're more narrow I think)
Can't buy the TC Pro locally, thats why I'm asking.
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kpinwalla2
Social climber
WA
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These, circa 1977. Somehow still can't bear to part with them - too many great memories with these on my feet. Wore them until my big toe was sticking out.
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HuecoRat
Trad climber
NJ
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First pair were Chouinard Diamonds, made by Asolo.
Went to EBs quickly after that.
Then Fire Cats. Woohoo! 3 resoles, about 15 years, leather finally just tore apart.
5.10 Huecos (original ones) still using them, and
Sportiva Tradmasters. Super comfy, can climb all day in them. Really fine shoes.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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kpinwalla2 - just a quick resole and a little rand work and Locker can have you back on the rock in no time.
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