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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 16, 2008 - 02:22pm PT
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Tork, your tunnel looks so cool.
le bruce:
Now I'm getting a sense of how good it must feel to simply come home.
That puts it well.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 16, 2008 - 02:36pm PT
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After all those faraway photos from March on the last page, here's a Boulder photo
from the 70s to start this one. Really it's a quiz for the Boulder cognoscenti.
The climber (Gary Hall) is following the FA of a 1-pitch, 5.8ish route on the
upper reaches of the Peanuts Wall in Eldo. I've always wondered whether this
pitch later got reclimbed, renamed, or incorporated into amore official route in
the guidebooks. Anybody know this area, or have a guess about the route?
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HighGravity
Trad climber
Southern California
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May 16, 2008 - 06:45pm PT
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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May 16, 2008 - 08:14pm PT
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Here's a pic from just below the other posted shot on The Zone (12c) at the Riverside Quarry. Really cool clip off a heel hook on the big flakes under the roof.
An amazing pitch that doesn't see much action due to the need to climb an approach pitch to gain the hanging belay below the route. Sport climbers are so lazy...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2008 - 08:50pm PT
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Chiloe,
Upper Peanuts Wall; it just so happens Greg Cameron and I will be climbing there tomorrow morning.
That route might even be on the menu.
A 5.9 called The Cruise.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2008 - 08:59pm PT
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I'll do my part to help float this pup.
These pictures show standard Flagstaff bouldering problems.
On toy loan from the Crimpie Fest thread:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2008 - 09:00pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2008 - 09:02pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2008 - 09:05pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2008 - 09:06pm PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 16, 2008 - 09:08pm PT
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Damn, Tar, I figured you were a good bet to know. Take a picture for me, will ya? I've wondered
what became of that route.
Steve Levin was stumped by that photo, BTW. Hey, there's another mystery that's got us both
stumped, 3 route names in the fog up on Shirttail Peak: The Tail - Windjammer - Windlass.
Are they the same route, or 2 different ones, or 3?
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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May 16, 2008 - 09:10pm PT
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Good to see this thread gaining a little steam again.
Thanks for posting Roy. It's been years since I visited Flag, but your shots bring back good memories.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2008 - 09:17pm PT
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Chiloe,
Hold the phone.
I'm still guessing about the route name: The Cruise.
When we do the Cruise we'll know.
Not sure about those other routes and Shirttail.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2008 - 09:33pm PT
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And Larry,
Rossiter has The Tale and Windlass both as routes you did with Briggs in 1974. The Tale was an FFA of a Bob Culp Route.
Clearly they come out of the gully of the Mountaineers Route.
I was up there year before last and I remember looking at some stuff out left; we may even have climbed one of those as a more interesting exit from Mountaineers Route...
I cannot find Windjammer in Rossiter's book, Ament's book, or Erickson's's book...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2008 - 09:43pm PT
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Right on Socalbolter!
I hadn't bouldered on Flagstaff for years either...
Now that it is springtime, this thread should be heating up!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2008 - 09:46pm PT
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The Redwall, from a couple angles:
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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May 16, 2008 - 10:16pm PT
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Julian's now a little older and taller than he was two years ago when this was taken, but he's been cranking as long as I've known him and he still continues to improve every year. The Shothole Problem at Steele Valley climbs a high-angle slab. A committing move (shown here) leads to the square-cut lip at the top of the problem.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2008 - 10:30pm PT
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Just look at that testy little fellow!
How old was he in that picture?
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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May 16, 2008 - 10:53pm PT
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I think he was 13 then, but he's been pulling hard for 6 or 7 years.
Somewhat of a prodigy, Julian literally grew up in the gym climbing with his older brother, Michael. Both of them climb very well and have been regulars at the National Championships (bouldering and routes) and Julian won Nationals last year and went on to do extremely well at Worlds.
Think he did his first 5.13 at age 12 and is now consistently crushing hard 13's and bouldering double digit V-scale problems left and right. He's far from hitting his difficulty plateau and I expect great things from him in the future. On top of all of this, he and his brother remain some of the most humble high-end kid climbers I've ever met.
Up thread a few pages there's a pic of him from around the same time on Weapons of Mass Destruction (13a) at the Riverside Quarry.
Chiloe's idea of captions for the pics was a good one. I'll do that from here on out...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2008 - 11:34pm PT
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Rock on Julian!
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