Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
|
Matt, as far as I know, the routes that have not been repeated are Sky is Falling, House of Cards, and Sargantana. Paul Gagner posted earlier in this thread that he and Bill Crouse did the second ascent of The Luminescent Wall in 1989. Sargantana climbs the big features on the far right side of the wall and only a short section of the upper headwall. The line doesn’t look terribly appealing to me.
Erik, in retrospect, I agree that taking hangers off belay bolts is a bad idea. It’s cheap and lame. Klaus and I also took hangers off of belay bolts on Hurricane Jingus on the Falls Wall and on The Hazing in the Fishers, so those routes require bolt hangers and a wrench. I never pulled any of the hangers on the other routes that I have put up.
On a side note, we did leave the hangers on the protection bolts on the first two (free) pitches. They are recycled Leeper hangers that I pulled off of Zenyatta during bolt replacement, which should add a little 'nostalgia' to the route.
At the belay that we shared with the Harding route, the bolt with the hanger should have had a tie-off sling on it, because I had to lower out from the belay to begin cleaning the traverse. Harding was probably using 50m ropes back then and I presume that you guys were using at least 60m ropes. Regardless of where we belayed, wouldn’t you expect to run into evidence of a Harding belay within 50m of the lower belay, or did you move other belays around on the Harding route as well? I don’t mean to argue about the new belay; it’s just that it doesn’t make any sense to me.
“We found mostly holes with broken off bolts or bathooks, not a lot of useable holes for bolts.”
From what I saw on the section of the Harding route that I climbed, I think all of the rivets came out of the holes cleanly during the chop, leaving the holes empty, which I either bat-hooked, or filled with a machine head. But that’s the only section of the Harding route that I saw. Did you patch all of the holes on the route that you couldn’t reuse?
The splitter in the photo above that Klaus posted no longer exists (pitch 4 of SIF). The right side of the crack fell off a few years ago or so. I wonder if some of our bolts on the first few pitches got taken out by rockfall. Probably…
Glad you like the photos, Rich. Thanks. There are a bunch more, earlier in this thread. Do you guys have any more photos to post?
|
|
Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2012 - 01:13am PT
|
So, no answers on whether you reused or patched any of the old holes on the Harding route, Erik? Should we assume that you just drilled new holes next to the old ones and didn’t patch anything, like you have done in the past?
I know that you took your power drill up on the Porcelain and used it with a silencer again. Some things never change…
Ok, on to topos.
There was never a topo of Sky is Falling floating around the Internet. Klaus didn’t want to give out the topo because he was upset with the fact that holes had been added to some of his routes in the past by subsequent ascents. His solution was to keep this route a secret but I guess he has now changed his mind on the matter. Here is the topo that Klaus drew that is based on notes that he took during the FA:
And here is the really rough topo that I drew from memory over three years after the FA:
The reason that I drew a topo three years later is because Klaus wouldn’t give me a copy of the topo that he drew, fearing that I would give out copies of his topo and not keep it a secret. I wanted to have a topo of the route before I forgot most of the details, so I drew up what I remembered, but never showed it to anyone other than Klaus. Later on, he finally decided to give me a copy of his topo.
|
|
DaveT.
Big Wall climber
southeast face portaledge
|
|
|
May 10, 2012 - 03:16am PT
|
Ha!
Guess i was too busy climbing to be concerned with topos. Never once drew a topo for anyone else, or ever handed one out. I put my routes up for me, not you, and not for supertopo. Erik wanted my notes, so I handed them over and said 'do what you want'.
Some of the route has fallen off, so good luck on the second!
DT
|
|
Captain...or Skully
climber
|
|
|
May 13, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
|
Nanook. You were asked a question. How about it?
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
|
|
|
May 13, 2012 - 06:55pm PT
|
crickets chirping
|
|
cleo
Social climber
the canyon below the Ditch!!!!
|
|
|
May 17, 2012 - 10:39pm PT
|
saw somebody going up there this afternoon... fixed a few pitches and look to blast off tomorrow?
|
|
j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
|
|
|
May 17, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
|
Someone tell Tom!
|
|
Captain...or Skully
climber
|
|
|
May 18, 2012 - 12:13am PT
|
That is what seems to be the Agenda, I reckon. If you build it...?
The Heavy Hand, man. If that's Love, then Love can go wrong.
|
|
j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
|
|
I thought medicinal cards didn't apply in National parks?
|
|
Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
|
There was a TR version of this thread that was bumped yesterday. The TR version was not posted by me and was created by the “moderators” of this site, apparently to add to the trip report section. The TR consisted of a copy of this thread up until Jeremy’s post on 8/19/09. A duplication of this thread simply adds to the unorganized chaos that is SuperTopo. Two separate version of the same thread aren’t necessary and it creates confusion, with additional posts on one thread but not the other.
The TR is now deleted and the additional posts since Jeremy’s post are shown below. Biotch, if you’d like to repost the image of the House of Cards topo, please feel free to do so. Apologies to anyone who may not agree with the deletion of the extraneous TR. Carry on.
|
|
Erik Sloan
climber
|
|
No doubt this is an awesome, awesome thread.
Porcelain is so good! When Ryan, Parker and I did the Direct summer before last we fixed three and did it in daylight, so I'd say just go for it in a day ala the Tower.....though bivying up there is awesome too! Tommy Bairstowe soloed the Direct that fall in three days. Had an awesome time.
There is only water from snow melt for a short time in the spring. Otherwise Mirror Lake is the closest water.
The summit is a pretty sic bivy too, and an easy one to have friends meet you at.
Woot!
|
|
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
Thanks to all of you bad ass dudes for sharing your experiences, photos and stories.
Incredible Yosemite history.
|
|
MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
|
|
Bad-ass bump.
|
|
Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
|
Jun 22, 2016 - 01:17pm PT
|
Anyone been up there recently?
Headed up to do the Direct on Saturday.
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
|
|
|
Jun 22, 2016 - 02:55pm PT
|
Doesn't that cook in the Summer afternoons?
|
|
Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
|
Jun 22, 2016 - 05:00pm PT
|
I thought it wound't be much worse than Half Dome. It sure does look like it's getting full sun at 3PM. Are we going to get cooked?
|
|
Sonic
Trad climber
Boulder, Co
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2016 - 10:40am PT
|
Stoke Bump!
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2016 - 12:21pm PT
|
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!