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jstan
climber
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Jul 30, 2008 - 05:00pm PT
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You can't be serious.
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Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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Jul 30, 2008 - 06:05pm PT
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Eric, Incredible shots! Geno
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horst
Trad climber
Lancaster, PA
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Jul 30, 2008 - 07:02pm PT
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DaDing! BobbyD wins...
Sling Time - One of the many stout roof routes at the gunks, though very unique in that the crux is managing your way through funky, sharp jams. I was psyched to onsight the route a number of years ago...only to have a photog show up as I'm turning the lip onto easy rock. So, of course, I was talked into leading it again...thus, the pix you see above.
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Jul 30, 2008 - 07:35pm PT
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Eric...I first did it in 79 and then again with Mike McGill in the late 80's.
Great route.
Are you coming to the reunion??
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horst
Trad climber
Lancaster, PA
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Jul 30, 2008 - 08:25pm PT
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Is the reunion the weekend of Oct 11 or 18?
I was just out climbing with Mark Robinson in Mammoth a few weeks back, and I believe he'll be coming in for the event.
Sounds like a good time!
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Jul 30, 2008 - 09:16pm PT
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Jstan wrote: You can't be serious.
About what??
Eric...it is on the weekend of the 18...it's going to be a blast. We need a young ropegun.
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jstan
climber
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Jul 30, 2008 - 09:58pm PT
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Slingtime 5.10+
or
Kansas City 5.10+
Slingtime is the Gunks equivalent of an overlap but on the vertical. It is the only one. You can't confuse it with any other climb. Not any other climb that existed in 1974 certainly.
"Surely you are joking, Mr. Feynman?"
That's a great read by the by.
Still trying to decide on the reunion. Will entail six(6) days of train travel. That's a bunch.
Do transcontinental trains provide wireless service? Anybody?
Airplanes are not going to be part of our future. They no longer exist.
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Jul 30, 2008 - 11:21pm PT
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Slingtime.
:-)
Good guess!
Shows up in the picture properties.
Could it be in the Nears?
Looks a little stiff. I know a guy who blew a bicep not far from there. Inverted Layback. Just a plain old Gunks 10, mostly easier except for a couple moves.
Edit: jstan, AT&T provides wireless - 3G - iPhone. Will you be repeating some of your FA's? Been on a couple of them lately.
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jstan
climber
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Jul 31, 2008 - 01:00am PT
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TIG:
Slingtime is in the Nears right near an easy climb which I can't remember. I really have to bring one of my books out of JT. Not something to which I refer often.
There is one repeat I really would like to do, if I come. I used to pick up trash early in the morning and then climb with whomever jumped in to help. We did that every weekend more than thirty years ago. Much of the climbing is a bit faded in my memory. The trash picking is still as clear as a bell. People got the place so clean there was not one cigarette butt to be found on the carriage road between the steel bridge and Skytop. 5.19
Take that back. 5.19d
If the trains are internet cafe type hot spots I could get an old Apple laptop and while away the time on the train. Have to be doing something. You've watched Rich Romano? He's much more able but the disease is the same.
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Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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Jul 31, 2008 - 05:56am PT
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Jstan,
This is from Gene Smith. I was one of those guys hanging in the Uberfall that you hooked up with to climb back in 1980. I don't remember that we picked up litter. Maybe there wasn't any that morning or you had already done it. Anyway, you led Nose Dive and set only a single nut at the crux. I led Never Never Land (you soloed up a ways on Never Say Never and gave me some encouragement). Then you led us up Balrog. On another day we walked to Sky Top and did No Exit. I really appreciated that you'd climb with us. Thank you. I learned a lot from you on just those few climbs.
We really hope you come to the Gunks II Reunion. A number of people are combing through their archives (closets, garages and storage bins)to find long lost pictures for the event on Saturday evening 18 October at the Preserve. A lot of folks will also be in the Gunks climbing, hiking and hanging out the week before.
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redpt
Trad climber
nj
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Jul 31, 2008 - 09:28am PT
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> jstan: near an easy climb
Sling Time is just right of Swing Time (11a?) and just left of Disneyland (5.5/6). I've got to get on it some day.
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jstan
climber
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Jul 31, 2008 - 11:06am PT
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Gene:
I certainly do remember you. At the time you were teaching at the Point.
Except for the traffic I expect you find the capitol a very interesting
place. Great museums.
We usually tried to do the roads like 299 right after dawn on Sunday
morning. The hairpins got a bit exciting once traffic had picked up.
Red:
To give you an idea of how memorable I found Slingtime I remember it in
some detail. I can't seem to pull up even an image of Swingtime. Slingtime
must have taken stoppers as that was about all I was using. It was a
little hard on the fingers too.
This brings up my all time favorite made up but true story. Mac was
sitting under April Showers tieing has shoes when he looked up. He said
to Claude, "Do you suppose that roof has gone? Thumbing through the
guide Claude says, "Yeah, Jim. It has gone. Jim says, "Who did it?" Claude
replies after a pause, "Jim. You did it." After a somewhat longer pause
Jim says, "Does it say how hard it is?"
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Jul 31, 2008 - 12:07pm PT
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Bob D on Maria Redirect....1977
The blond god on Sling Time....1978.
One of the other gods (Stewe Wunsch) on Kligfield's Follies...1978
Sorry about the quality of the slides.
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jstan
climber
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Jul 31, 2008 - 01:53pm PT
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Part way up Kliegfields you encounter a cramped belay below a roof going
into an inside corner with no protection for awhile. When Bragg and I did
the route we considered a plan to get Steve belaying below that roof and
then have the leader smile and wave as they fall past the belay and go
down below yet another roof. I don't know whether Bragg ever put that
plan into action. I certainly did not.
At least among the routes known in 1974, Kliegfield's Follies holds a very
special place. It has ambiance up the wing wang, IMO.
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cliffmama
Trad climber
Noo Jerzee
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Jul 31, 2008 - 01:57pm PT
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"I met Barbara at the Long Distance swimming area in Minnewaska. Barbara is in incredible shape and I mentioned that it would be great to get her back out climbing. Barb's answer was maybe.
...
I hope to see Barbara back out climbing again."
About 3 or 4 years ago, I did a little climbing with Barbara after she moved back to the area. We brought our kids out to climb one day and she did a little top roping. Despite not climbing in many years she still could gracefully tiptoe up a 5.10a. Then we got out for an afternoon without the kids and she followed me up Classic. Haven't climbed with her since, but I heard she climbed during last year's reunion.
So how do I get myself an invitation to the reunion? I have no "Gunks legend" credentials, I just like to hang out with them. Jstan - it was great to climb and hike with you at JTree in March - will you be coming to the Gunks this fall?
I did my first climb at the Gunks the weekend the bus went over the hairpin turn (Feb 1981). Remembering the sound of the people in the bus screaming still sends chills down my spine. Seems like no one walks down anymore, everyone raps and so many people carelessly throw their ropes down on other climbers. I miss the cow-bell sound of hexes clinking down the carriage road as climbers walked back to their packs.
Recently, there have been efforts to maintain good relations and get climbers to participate. We started the Gunks Climbers' Coalition back in 2002 (I'm the secretary and webmaster). We're working on opening more areas to climbing, fund raising for rescue equipment, annual clean-ups, and we put on climber events (slideshows by Henry Barber, Eric Horst, John Bragg, Russ Clune, Al DeMaria, and others). We are currently organizing a letter-writing campaign to open climbing up in Minnewaska, beyond the Peter's Kill area. See our website http://gunksclimbers.org for information about who to write to (they are accepting comments until August 11th), and send me a message if you'd like to get on our mailing list.
Great thread, fun pictures!
Jannette
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jstan
climber
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Jul 31, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
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J:
You guys are plenty gnarly. You don't need no stinking credentials.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 31, 2008 - 02:10pm PT
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I remember picking trash up on the road back
in the early to mid 70's. (I think Jstan lured us
poor climbers by dropping change on the road--
I always picked up at least a dollar's worth doing
trash duty)!
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jstan
climber
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Jul 31, 2008 - 02:48pm PT
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Steve:
Weren't you the one who got the ten spot? I remember that.
Two of us picked up $20 apiece on Route 120 at the last Facelift. Well that is not strictly correct. Hollywood found the twenty but the TV crew gave me twenty for some reason. We stuck both bills in the wallet I had just found and gave it to Ed to give to Ken. That same day I found the bungee cord I am still using on my bicycle.
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Geno...start posting pictures.
Russ Raffa On Scary Aria.
Rich G on first pitch of Endro Man.
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