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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jan 28, 2014 - 06:15pm PT
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Ditto
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nita
Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
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Jan 28, 2014 - 09:43pm PT
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Mike Bolte. ...,
First, I think she was Ray's second wife, and for some reason the name~ Linda doesn't sound right.... ..I could be wrong though, it was so long ago.....
Patrick...Maybe it's time to let it go..... . BTW....Dave is a honest, honorable, and wonderful guy....Some very personal stuff you posted up.......
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Edit:.... Hey Mike, yep, Susie....thanks .... Her head injury was Bad...It was a heavy time... i felt so very sad for her...
I remember exactly what she looked like, and I even remember my last conversation with her.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jan 28, 2014 - 11:12pm PT
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Hi Nita -
now that you say it, she might have been Ray's second wife. And, you are right! I checked with Bill F. and it was *Susie* not Linda who worked at the Deli and was in the hang-gliding accident. I can picture her face, memories are getting faded...
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clinker
Trad climber
California
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Jan 29, 2014 - 09:39am PT
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Notes to self;
Don't ever chisel holds.
Jardine was coolest looking dude ever.
Stick with your loved ones in sickness...
Other climbers may be in the bushes with binoculars.
If you have a good idea, make it happen sooner.
Someone with a better idea is lurking around the corner.
The climbing community is always right.
What you accomplish matters, how you do it matters more.
When I grow old, try not to be a high minded a....
The guy on the middle cross name is Ray, the ones on each side may be Jim, Dale or Pat...not sure, but definitely not Peter.
In retrospect the three dudes who climbed the "Big One" in a day were actually the coolest looking ever.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 29, 2014 - 01:05pm PT
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Nita said
Maybe it's time to let it go
Nita, am I alone in firmly believing that a high percentage of climbers are OCD? ;-)
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Jan 29, 2014 - 01:51pm PT
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Clinker nails it all. You can tell he actually read the whole thread, which is highly worthy.
One of THE Best All Time Threads!
Arne
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 29, 2014 - 03:04pm PT
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Patrick, I wasn't attacking you, just having a wee poke in the ribs. ;-)
You carry on, there's nothing wrong with sincerity.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Jan 29, 2014 - 03:10pm PT
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If the Jardine Traverse was at least well made, in a craft-like way, is it possible that it is a more climbing-like solution to getting up the Nose than the bolt-ladder higher up? I don't want to sanction chipping but......do I want to sanction bolt-ladders? Can anyone here report on what it is like and the difficulty?
I have seen the Dean Potter video of soloing the Nose and yarding on the bolt ladder. From the previous photo in this thread, it looks like it may be hard to yard on the Traverse unless those bolts are so close together.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Jan 29, 2014 - 03:24pm PT
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Agreed, but let's now compare it to the bolt ladder and I'd really like to know about the moves.
The Traverse seems to be a mystery wrapped in a riddle inside an enigma!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 29, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
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Patrick, I was just trying to lighten things up, eh? I haven't perused this
so all I have to say about ridiculing somebody for being sincere is
"SOD OFF!"
For what it is worth I am anti-chisel although I give Michaelangelo a pass on that.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Jan 29, 2014 - 03:57pm PT
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This photo copied from Rollovers post. It doesn't look all that easy and I can see why somebody would rather do a bolt ladder. Might miss the good vibes of Boot Flake too!
Rollover, do you know who the climber is? Michaelangelo?
I always keep a sharp chisel in my kit.
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Jan 29, 2014 - 06:06pm PT
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Very cool thread. I'm a fan of the Ray Way website because I'm into the ultralight thing. And I always thought all of the old climbing pictures of Jardine were super cool.
As far as Separate Reality, I've always wondered what hold broke. Did this break create the hold that everyone now uses?
Regardless, it kills me that some of the old timers still bad mouth Jardine thirty-plus years later. Yosemite Valley. For all that good climbing, there sure is a lot of bad blood. What a pity.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Jan 29, 2014 - 06:14pm PT
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McHale's Navy: Looks like Trey Anastasio's twin brother..
But it is in fact Ray Jardine in 1980.
Rankin: If you think there's bad blood in Yosemite Valley, go check out New England
and more specifically Connecticut.
Trad/bolt wars (read: Ken Nichols).
;)
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Jan 29, 2014 - 06:37pm PT
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I would just like to know more about the Traverse. I'm not trying to stir the pot - just want to know more about what we have. That traverse is up there and is a big alternate and it's historic and controversial. It seems like there could be a conversation about it. Apparently the Traverse gets used to free the Nose.....how bad can it be? Don't tell me I have to go up there and find out! ;>)
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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Jan 29, 2014 - 06:45pm PT
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Rollover, I heard of Ken Nichols years ago. Pretty crazy shite, and dats for sure. :o
I was in the Valley for 6 months once. Love that place, and met some really cool people, but it did start to ache after a while. I never got used to the relatively harsh and competitive scene after growing up in the South. When it comes to California climbing, the East Side is more my speed. :)
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Jan 29, 2014 - 07:36pm PT
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McHale - the "Jardine Traverse" is 12a in the Nose Free topo
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 29, 2014 - 07:51pm PT
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The chiseling was on the blank section from sickle to Dolt hole.
Chiseling was also from dolt hole to the Stovelegs.
The first hard move on the Jardine traverse was a huge chisel around a diorite knob to get a toe hold.
The whole Jardine traverse would never have gone without the chiseling.
Ray went ape sh!t up there to force the Nose free.
He was notorious for all kinds of shenanigans around the Valley climbs.
But we didn't hate him at all and got along with him fine.
We just said "Well that's how Ray is".
:-)
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Jan 29, 2014 - 07:58pm PT
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The whole Jardine traverse would never have gone without the chiseling.
Werner, you mean part of it would? I had no idea of the chiseled traverses lower down. Wow.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 29, 2014 - 08:02pm PT
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Bachar did a write up somewhere documenting all the chiseling Ray did on the Nose.
John was pretty upset about it.
When Kauk and I did the the Nose film we saw all the chiseling marks as Kauk was probably the very first to cross all the Jardine chiseling areas up there ....
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 29, 2014 - 08:08pm PT
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There's the Dales Pin job climb.
Funnier than sh!t!
Ray finds this thin crack with no finger locks and gets Dale as a partner to try and do the FA.
They fail.
Bachar comes and tries and fails.
I jokingly say "Won't go unless you pin it out."
Lol Ray and Dale pin it out Hahaha
Bachar flips and calls it "Dales Pin Job"
To funny .......
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